Any 8-pin decoder with basic motor control should work. Indexing is built into the turntable, and not controlled by the decoder.

Len

For the easist return to operation, you'll eather have to remove the drive shaft and worm gear, or the spur gear between the worm gear and the rest of the drive train. You'll need to do this on both trucks, otherwise the worm gear will lock up the drive train. You'll also want to disconnect at least one motor lead so it's not just sitting their spinning. Keep the removed parts where they will not get lost if you plan to put the loco back in operation at some point.

Len

Those are both thread cutting screws, not machine screws. There was no tapping of the holes they go into involved. In soft material, I find drilling a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the shank usually works. You want roudhly 1/2 of the thread to cut into whatever material you use, with the open space between the material and shank for the material to expand into as the screw is driven home.

Len

An 8-pin socket sounds like it's DCC ready for a motor control and light functions decoder only. Adding sound would be a bit more involved.

Len

I've had some issue with Kato's HO turnouts where the flangeway of the frog itself wasn't deep enough and the flanges of some locos would ride up on the frog. A bit of fine sandpaper wrapped around the edge of a bit of styrene sheet added enough depth to cure the problem.

Len

Appears to be 'Solt Out' on all of the usual on-line places, including eBay. You may have to go the 'build it from parts' route if you really want one.

Len

In general 3-rail trains are pretty heavy, so need more current than the average HO or N layout. Any DCC system meeting NMRA standards should work, but you'll probably want a 5 amp booster so the system doesn't get overloaded. Any decoder rated at 4 or 5 amps, often used in G scale, should work. Tsunami makes 4 and 5 amp sound decoders if you want sound. Keep in mind that if you convert the layout to DCC you will no longer be able to use O-Gauge locomotives expexting AC power straight out of the box.

From the questions you're asking, I would suggest getting some books on DCC and getting much more familiar with it before taking on a project like this. The people I did those conversions for were already very familiar with DCC, and well aware of the issues involved in using it with a 3-rail layout.

Len

Not trying to start a fight Yardmaster, but that's not completely true. When my repair shop was open, I had three different people, not interested in running 'Post War' locomotives, ask me to remove the Electronic E-Units from their modern can motor 3-rail O-gauge locos and install DCC decoders and sound systems instead.

I used decoders rated for heavier G-scale locos and Tsunami sounds systems and they were happy with the results. The main installation difference was using the center pickup and frame return instead of the left and right rails of 2-rail operation. They were especially happy with having more control over the locos sounds than the typical O-guage sound board.

Len

Another source for small metal and plastic screws, metric and SAE, in bulk is Micro-Fasteners:

http://www.microfasteners.com/

Len

One of the best investments I've made for model railroading was a set of small precision screwdrivers by a company called Wiha. I purchased the seven piece set, which includes four slotted screwdrivers (1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3mm), and three Phillips screwdrivers (PH 00, PH 0 and PH 1). I bought them over 20 years ago for use in my repair shop, and they still look exactly the same as the day I got them. Since then, I've added many other Wiha tools to my collection, and been glad I did.

The Wiha site can be found at: https://www.wihatools.com/

The screwdriver sets are often found discounted on many on-line sites.

Len

It should work just fine. Set the DC output voltage to between 14 and 16 volts.

Len

If you don't mind hitting a button to throw the switches, it's not a problem. And you can add external DCC switch control, e.g., Digitrax DS64, or similar, at a later date if you want.

Len

If this is the basic DC train set 2-6-2, there is no switch. The smoke stops when it runs out of fluid, and that's it. If you don't want to use smoke, the entire unit isn't all that hard to remove.

Len

It's been a while since I did it, but it's either the 3/16" or 1/4" female terminal connector that will fit the rerailer track tabs if you want to make your own extenstion.



Len

I used the blue 'pan scrub' side of sponges available at most grocery stores to clean rust of steel O-gauge track on a display layout. It should work for G-scale track. Use it dry, then wipe the track down with a cloth to remove any residue that might be picked up by the motor magnet.

Len