Not sure who makes them, not even sure if it is the traction tire or the drive wheel.  Also, I have some 3% grades it is pulling up, so there may be some wheel slippage as well.  I've moved the loco to a different track that only has 2% slopes, and so far I haven't had any issues, but it has only been 2-3 months.  Just looking ahead right now in case it keeps doing it.

Thanks Johnathan, this is what I wanted to find out.  I trust people's opinions who have used products or done things a lot more than what the manufacturer claims. 

I have an old Riverossi 4-6-4 Hudson that I converted to DCC and am contemplating installing sound as well.  It pulls like crazy when it has it's traction tires on, but it does not like retaining it's traction tires for more than 6 months.  Without them, as expected, it barely moves by itself.  I have extra tires, but they are a pain to install.  

If I applied it to the drive wheels only, I don't believe I should have electrical pickup problems with it, as the drive wheel does not pick up power anyway.  

I watched videos on how to apply it, but how hard is it to get the same thickness as the traction tire would have and is that even an issue?  If you find it is not thick enough after applying it, can you just add more to it or do you need to remove the first layer of BFS first then re-apply all at once?

Well, thank you Wounded Bear for a second sarcastic answer to a simple question.

Yes, my bad, I did miss the link, but even after going to it, I find it is nothing more than a question and answer page from the manufacturer.  Of course they are going to say it does not leave any residue.  I was trying to ask people with experience what they actually found.  

In the mean time, I was over at my local hobby shop picking up an order that came in, and I asked them about it.  They do not even carry it based on the complaints of many of their customers.  

Wow, I thought, so I called a couple of members of my train club, and one said he used it for a while, found it easy to apply as long as you kept the wheels turning the whole time it was drying, and did improve traction on his steam locomotive, but did not work at all for him on his diesels because the improvement in traction was outweighed by the loss in wheel contact and conductivity.  But, he did quit using it because he had to keep re-applying it, and cleaning his track more frequently.  

No one else had much good to say about it either, but he was the only one who elaborated on it.  All were HO users.  None of the N scale users would touch it.  We don't have any S scale trains.

But, that was a small sampling, and I am not suggesting they are all correct.

So again, a simple question, has anyone here had any good or bad results using Bullfrog Snot and did it leave any residue on their track?

Yes, the mantle section is static.

First try at a Christmas layout.  Built this a number of years ago, stayed up for the whole year, then took it down.  Had it up a couple of years ago again, and took it back down.  Planning to put it back up again for next Christmas.  Need to repair/upgrade some of the scenery and do some more lighting.  Not modular, made from 3" composite foam/aluminum roof panel.  Light and easy to move, and really sturdy.  Alaska diesels are from Bowser, excursion train is Bachmann and the McKinley Explorer are the optional lighted cars pulled by the Bachmann EM-1.  All DCC with sound.  Winter mountain scenery on the right, winter village in the center, spring car show of the left.  Inside track is flat, middle track has 1" rise in the rear and the outer track has a 2" rise in the rear.

Will see how well the EZ-mate NS track held up.  Stored in A/C conditioned space.  Overall looks in pretty good condition.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7f7VUhL7Gs

Thank you very much, if I had a bottle, I may be able to do that.

If you are talking about Horn-Hook couplers, no problem.  Knuckle couplers also mostly all connect, but I have had a lot of trouble with Bachmann EZ mate couplers, because of their plastic shafts getting distorted and uncoupling due to misalignment.  Replaced most of them. If they align, they should be fine.

Always wondered where that stuff goes after it is applied.  Does it leave any type of film on the track?

I bought 2 more shells from Bachmann with different Alaska road numbers and I was able to make the swap with only needing the one modification to the older shells.  

Now I have an Alaska GP38 with sound, road number 2007 and 4 Alaska GP40's with road numbers 3002, 3015, 3018 and 3019, all sound equipped!  Happy camper.

As a matter of fact, the older shells will fit on the frames for both the new style GP40 with sound and the new style GP38 with sound.

I could probably find more GP38 shells with different road numbers, but since I now have 1 Bachmann GP38, 4 Bachmann GP40's, 3 Bowser F7's, and 3 Athearn SD70MAC's, all Alaska, all different road numbers and all with sound, I think I have more than enough Alaska diesels for the size of my layout.

Yes you can.  Look at my thread (Locomotive Shells) on this forum area.  I updated it today so it would show right above
yours.

I don't know what is in his set, just know how well mine performed.  Symptoms sounded similar.

I do not have the Christmas train set from Bachmann, but I did buy an 0-6-0 steam engine as a switching engine, and found it would not pull it's own shadow.  It could not pull 4 small ore cars without spinning it's wheels.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIZssg4oWzQ

In the video, both engines were set to the same decoder ID number, and were receiving the same throttle settings.  It took a much higher throttle setting to even get the 0-6-0 to just move, and once it did, it was being blown away by my Mantua 2-6-0 with a number of ore cars behind it.  Both engines were receiving a full speed throttle setting.  It seemed to be laboring to make it up a very small 2% grade with no cars in tow.  I looked into why it would not pull anything, and here is what I discovered about my engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg41Bn-8NkA

I wrote it off as a brand new piece of garbage and bought something else for a switcher.  It now sits on a siding of my large layout as a diorama engine in a saw mill.

Quote from: Trainman203 on October 06, 2018, 09:42:35 PM
What radius curve is it going around?

I have run mine on a 22" radius, but as rich1998 has said, the cab overhang is "pronounced".  It takes almost a 30" radius to have the cab follow the rails like it really should.  On the 22" curve, the engine took the curve, but you cannot have any scenery close to the track or the rear of the cab will hit.  Same with my Big Boy.

Went to a train show over the weekend and was able to compare the Bachmann F2A with the F7A, and they are almost the exact length and width, but the shells did not look enough alike, mostly in the fuel tank areas, to chance them being interchangeable.  I found someone selling a brand new Bachmann F7A with sound for $95.00, so I bought it and ordered the Barnum & Bailey F7A.  When it comes, I will swap shells so I have a sound powered Barnum & Bailey and then sell the Norfolk & Southern F7A as a DCC ready unit.

Just wanted to pass this little tid-bit along for others who may be planning to do this.

I have finished setting up my railroad for block detection so I can see where my trains are.  The last thing I need to do is install the small resistors on my freight car axles so the system can see them.

I researched the task and found I need to glue 10K ohm resistors, 1/8 watt, to the axle so it creates a very small current path across the wheel's insulator.  This small amount of current allows my BD20 to detect that a car is on the block.

I ordered 200 resistors on eBay, and was surprised at what I received.  I needed a magnifying glass to SEE the resistors, and it was impossible to install them on the axles with the conductive paint.

It turns out, that one of the long list of codes in the part number was the number 0201.  Not knowing what that meant, I did not pay that much attention to it, as I thought all the chip resistors were similar except for resistance and wattage.

Well, the 0201 was a size code, which, had I looked into it earlier, meant this resistor was .024" in length, .012" in width and .01" in height !!!   In metric that is 0.6 mm in length, 0.3 mm in width and 0.25 mm in height.

What I should have ordered (and did so this evening) was resistor size code 1206, which is the exact same resistor only about 5 times that size.

The below link is to a sizing table showing resistor sizes.  If you are contemplating doing this, I suggest you refer to the table on this web site before ordering.  You may wish to order sizes
1206, or the even larger 2010.

Hope this helps someone!

http://www.resistorguide.com/resistor-sizes-and-packages/