It turns out that the loose wire is the issue because when I directly connect the wires to the track the engine starts working. Thank you for the advice, it worked.

The problem now left is that apparently a different type of mechanism was used to connect these wires to the wheels than the usual soldering. I may have to post some pictures because it's hard to explain. I have an idea as to what needs to be done but with limited experience and tight space have not had much success so far.

The store we took the train to was able to test it but they don't fix trains.

Yes, that could be the case. I have tried to find some type of wire drawing but so far no luck.

Yes, it seems that way that the problem is somewhere between the truck and the motor. I wonder if the loose wire on the back truck has any role in this situation. Overall, with my limited experience I am hesitant to open the engine motor but I may just have to.

Quote from: trainman203 on September 16, 2023, 07:23:45 AMBecause the track is the problem. Not the engine.  Did you ever try this engine on another layout?

You need to check each and every rail joiner and wiring connection.

We took it to a model train shop and they were kind enough to test it on their track and it didn't work.

The track has current when I test it with a multimeter. I have cleaned the track and wheels with EZ lubricant.

@jward. Thank you for the detailed and informative reply. So here is something interesting. I took a 9V battery and touched it to the two metal terminals on the motor and it came to life. The lights came on and the wheels started moving. So what do we make of that? Why would the motor not work on the track but will work with a 9V battery?

Quote from: trainman203 on September 15, 2023, 02:10:51 PMIf it was me I'd give up, punt, snd buy a new engine. 

You are right. That's probably the right thing to do. I have some free time so just trying to figure it out.

There are two distinct ports, AC and DC. I have it connected to DC and it reads 18 volts. Yes, the voltage varies and changes polarity. Do you think the high voltage may have caused the motor to burn?

I am unable to move the wheels manually. Should they move? If the motor is jammed then what can I do about it, anything or is it irreparable?

I will try to get the testing wires with alligator clips and see how that goes.

Hi All,

Here is the update about my Bachmann train. I obtained a multimeter as well as a Bachmann track cleaner. The voltage across the connector track after cleaning was about 18 volts. Cleaned the engine wheels and put it on the track and nothing happened. Opened the engine (see attached Dropbox link for photos) and cleaned it and put a few drops of lubricant into the small openings in the motor. Checked the resistance across the the two metal terminals and it was about 12 Ohms.  Noticed that one of the two red wires at the back end of the engine was pulled out. Opened the back cartridge with wheels but couldn't figure out where or how the detached wire should be connected.

So here are some questions:

1. Is 18 volts too high and could it have damaged to the motor when the engine spurred on for few seconds (as mentioned above)

2. Is the resistance of 12 Ohms 'ok' across the engine motor terminals or is it too high

3. What is the significance of the pulled red wire ( as shown in the picture) and does anyone know where it should be attached to

Thank you for your help.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/8u9iv5t33aom0khkcggsi/h?rlkey=ip5lcuat3b0vvt4a78xd2g8x6&dl=0

Quote from: trainman203 on September 05, 2023, 10:39:40 AMHaving a test track is a great idea.  Modelers who have been involved a little while realize the advantage of a separate workbench, having a separate test track with a power source as a permanent part of the workbench.  One day down the line you may get into DCC operation, and the test track would also function as the programming track where are you adjust and fine tune locomotive performance.

If you stay with this very long, you'll eventually see the advantage of having a dedicated workbench, rather than having to mobilize, and D mobilize at the kitchen table every time you want to do anything.

In our old age, we acquired a second home in a vacation area, but it's a very Small Home suited to our small income. Which means the space is very limited and I don't have a layout there.  I was trying to do kit building and repairs on a folding TV dinner table, but after getting terminally fed up with the continuing aggravation of mobilizing and demobilizing, finally realized I could buy a rolling plastic 3-drawer thing at Walmart that I could work on top of, and roll it out of the way when not being used.  I've been successfully building box, car kits, and super detailing stock plastic cabooses with lots of additional handrails and better ladders, and the drawer unit has proved to be a great place to do the work.

Thank you for the advice. Sounds like a good idea to solve the space and testing issues.

Quote from: jward on September 05, 2023, 05:23:50 AM

Quote from: MOP on September 04, 2023, 04:27:07 PMThank you so much for the advice. My present tester shows that there is current coming to the track but not able to tell the exact value. Do you think it will be worth getting a different tester with more definitive values?

Definitely. They aren't expensive. You can often find cheap digital ones in auto parts stores, that will allow you to measure bot AC and DC voltages, along with current and resistance. The resistance (ohms) setting is particularly useful for tracing the power connections inside a locomotive when it is off the track.

Thank you. This sounds like a good idea. I will try to get one and see where the problem is.

Quote from: Fred Klein on September 05, 2023, 12:19:33 AMIt is very possible that, given the age of the set, any and all lubrication has by now dried up and is causing the motor and drive train, i.e. gears, to bind. I've had this happen on several locomotives that had been stored for a number of years. Some of these engines did give a little lurch before freezing up. One thing you can look at is the headlight (assuming it's not burned out) - if it gets brighter as you increase the speed control, then there is definitely voltage going to the locomotive.

Back in the 70's the drive mechanisms were a lot cruder and a lot more heavy (i.e. thicker) grease was used. Over time, the oil in the grease evaporated and the grease then started to act like glue. If you feel comfortable doing it, remove the shell from the engine and just take a paper towel and wipe off all the gears you can readily access. A cotton swab works well for tight areas. Don't worry about leaving the gears dry as the engine won't be run long enough for it to matter during testing. If the engine runs, then perhaps perform a more thorough cleaning of the gears and then lightly lubricate them again. Hope this helps.

Thank you for the tips. What you are saying makes sense. Unfortunately there is no light coming on, not sure if there is a current issue or if the bulbs are burnt. I tried to remove the locomotive cover but there are several fine silver wires that are attached to ceiling of the locomotive. I am not sure if I can remove the cover without breaking these fine wires.

Thank you for the suggestions and encouragement. I will try to get a multi meter and see what exactly is going on. Interestingly I couldn't find any on MicroMark.

Any ideas as to why the engine came to life for few seconds? Also, a silly question: does it make a difference if the track is fully connected for the engine to work or should it work just with the connector piece (for testing purpose)? I hope I am making sense here.

I have looked at similar engines and considered buying one. But since I wasn't sure where the problem is, I have been hesitant to get one.

Do you think it's worth it to take it to a toy train repair shop and have them look at it?

Thank you so much for the advice. My present tester shows that there is current coming to the track but not able to tell the exact value. Do you think it will be worth getting a different tester with more definitive values?

Thank you so much for your detailed and helpful answer. Unfortunately I don't have access to another train set to test out different components. The power pack that I bought is apparently a Bachmann product and has both AC and DC terminals. I did use the DC terminal. The maximum output of the power pack is 17 volts. I am not sure how much power the engine actually uses. So this possibly may have have caused the problem. Your final point is well taken and this is probably a lost cause but I thought I will ask experts' opinion before discarding the train set. I am attaching a Dropbox link of the photos. Hopefully it will work.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qh98naaqmbg5aly/AAAYD83L0EkapRjyZyDc3T2Ma?dl=0

Hi Everyone,

I found an old Bachmann train set from 1979 that was a gift from my father. It was missing the speed controller so I bought a used speed controller from eBay but I am not sure it's similar to the original controller. I tried to run the engine with it and it came alive for few seconds with some lights and noise but nothing since then. I have tried to use a voltage tester and there seems to be current coming to the track but I don't know exactly how much. I tried to open the engine but there are light wires attached to the ceiling so I can't remove the cover. I tried to clean the tracks and engine tires but no luck.

I am an absolute novice and don't know what else I can do. The biggest problem is figuring out if it's the speed controller issue, engine malfunction or connector problem.

Looking for some guidance. Thank you in advance for any help.

P.S. Please see attached photos of engine, speed controller and the connector.