I do not have the trolly set, so I can't speak to that specifically.  I do have a couple United Traction trolleys and have tested them.  They run fine IMO... perhaps you're used to running stuff fast, but I think trolleys, railbuses, geared locos, etc aren't made to run 'fast'.  With that said, they don't run unbearably slow.

Now, to your question about alternatives.  You can run the trolleys with another controller, like this one below.  It has momentum and you can add a station stop, or several, between the end points.  They have a version without station stops if you want that.  I've purchased from them, and they ship very quickly and should arrive within 2 weeks, but probably sooner.

https://blocksignalling.co.uk/Shuttles/SAS2-BR

Are the new ON30 animated stock cars coming out before Christmas?

Did you try a factory reset of the decoder?

Peco has On30 flex track, too.

OK, dumb question.  Are you using a DCC controller and have your increased the speed control?

The power pack is fine, but check the manual for the new loco to verify it will run on DC.  I think the new dcc stuff will run on dc but not sure.

If it will run on dc, it will take more voltage to fire up the decoder before it starts moving, and I don't know how much (or, any) control over the sounds you'll have.  It will just provide the basic sounds like chuff, brake squeal, etc but you will have limited (or no) control of stuff like the bell and whistle.

You may want to switch over to DCC to get full functionality.

Sure.  The easiest way would probably be to pull the decoder from the 8pin socket inside the box in the bed and replace with dummy plugs.  I don't know if a dummy plug (usually 2, 3 pin plugs if memory serves) come with the truck, but they sometime are included with some Bachmann stuff.

The dummy plug essentially connects rail power directly to the motor, bypassing the decoder.  It may also connect the lights, but I don't know exactly.  Check the documentation for the truck to see if it mentions it, or do a search around the forums or internet to find details.  I'm not home right now to check on mine.  I think the railbuses came with a dummy plug, but not 100% sure.

ADDED:  Here's one in the HO section, but should be the same.  You can see the plug connects 2 sets of 3 pins, and you can use anything to connect them together.

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_91&products_id=9668

To clarify, and sorry for late reply.  You can use regular track, but you have to run the 3rd 'reverse' wire out to the end track section and add in the rail gap.  I did it several years ago, and it works fine.

If you look at the special track sections used in that kit, they have the 2 rail connectors, and an extra 3rd connector to provide that required connection.  The end piece of track has a rail gap, and connects that 3rd wire after the gap.  When the trolley reaches the gapped section, it stops, and then the controller reverses rail polarity and sends it back to the barn.

Are there parts available for the 2-6-6-2?  I don't see it listed on the parts site.

Hmm.  I can't see any of the pics now.

Theres another unit that will do this and add momentum control as well.  https://blocksignalling.co.uk/Shuttles/SAS2-BR

From what I can gather, the speaker for the sound models is built into the cab?  Do the cabs for sale that show they are for DCC w/sound include this speaker?

Quote from: Terry Toenges on February 06, 2024, 10:52:30 AMI remembered why I didn't do track power. The lights are 3 volts and the track is 15 volts. What size resistor would I need?

It's hard to tell.  If you just want to use a resistor then I'd start with 10K and go down until you get it right.  I run DCC, and I pull power out of a lighted passenger car.  I used a 3V zener diode to create a voltage regulator.  If you wanted to do that and you're running DCC then you'll want a rectifier too.

If you want a zener I'll send you one, PM your address and I'll stick one in the mail.

If you're inclined, you could add wheel wipers to the trucks, or add a lighted car before/after your gondola and feed your power from there... and use a simple zener diode regular to provide 3vdc.  I added this to a LED string in a gondola full of Christmas trees.

The battery works, but if you want to tinker it's not hard to pull power from the track.

I picked up a NOS climax with gear problems.  I'll buy new trucks, but it appears the gearbox is also slipping.  I haven't popped it open yet, but the instructions for gear replacement only addresses repairing the trucks, not the gear box.

Are there some instructions for replacing other gears, not just repairing the trucks?

Side question, is this repair still available from the service department?