It is not the decoder.The decoder in the sound value has the same motor control as the Tsumani. You can also access pre -programmed speed curves by setting a few cv's. Or Adjust 2,3,4,5,6. That is it. I can run mine about a scale 3mph without lurching or stalling. Maybe you have a bind in the drive. If you have to use cv 2 to get her going at 2 speed steps .Good sign it is mechanical and not the control of the decoder.
Johnny

There is a separate part number for the side railings in the listing of the end railings as a footnote.
Johnny

Didn't Rivarossi make one of those? May be a source for parts if needed.
Johnny

Thanks for responding .No holes in the piece of  plastic material. Just about a 2 inch square piece of plastic ,about  1/32nd thick. So far no answer from Bachmann. Who else could know? Thinking it was for the open space where the front frame ends compared to the end of the shell .There is about a 1 inch gap that  allows light to shine down under the front of the loco instead of through the headlight and back up lights.Wondered why they never made the frame the full length of the loco? Why the large gaps?Not talking about the pilots .
Johnny

If not available through Bachmann.Try Walthers they make a f40ph and may stock a rear railing for it. You my have to drill holes if it mounts in the deck.Many other options with metal railings through Smokey Valley who makes rail kits or old Athearn blue box Stanton and then bend your own wire for the rail.
Johnny

Hello,
Come across a old Spectrum dd40ax new old store stock .New in the box. In the box it comes with about a 2 inch square sheet of black plastic that it does not list in the instructions/exploded view drawing.Had one of the same years ago with the same thing in the box.Anybody know what Bachmanns intention was for putting it in the box. Maybe to block the light leaking out the bottom ,or blocking the middle walkway???Just my guess.Any Ideas?
Johnny

The average LED will operate a 3.5 volts.Soundtraxx recommends 680 ohm resistor on their Tsumani for each function negative lead to each LED.Always wonder .I wire up led's for dc locos and use 800 to 1000 ohms . Some here say to use it on the positive side of the LED. I have used them on either pole and it works for both. By the way if it is a older Spectrum and it has a dcc ready board with led lights.It is a second run .The first run of the dash 8 had a split frame and tower mounted trucks that was ok ,but the second and 3rd runs were much better.Now they are discontinued .
Johnny

There are a few already available for purchase in the U S A .I do not understand what you mean by when they are released?Some already are on the shelves .May I speak to your supervisor?
Johnny

Hello, I would like to know information on the sd70ace dealing with the new cv default set listing since there have been updates dealing with the added ditch light functions that would make differences then the first run.Is the list in the box with the loco,or is it going to be published  for a download in the near future?
Johnny

Quote from: NKline on August 20, 2016, 02:03:00 PM
Johnny,

Where did you find this rope caulk and what size did you use?

Nathan

Quote from: brokenrail on August 20, 2016, 11:42:37 AM
That works ,but if the speaker is not tight to the surface it will vibrate and can be herd .There is a very good thing that I found that has many uses in locomotives called rope caulk.It gives a good bond and is able to be shaped into anything ,but does not harden up like a putty ,but is a putty and will remove if necessary usually in  1 piece. Is not sticky ,but sticks.Great insulator for vibrations,holding wires in place,bulbs/led's in place.Is not a glue,Will not hurt the resin or paint ,and has no odor.And RE-useable to top it off.dOES  Found it at ACO Hardware. mANY ,many uses.
Johnny

That works ,but if the speaker is not tight to the surface it will vibrate and can be herd .There is a very good thing that I found that has many uses in locomotives called rope caulk.It gives a good bond and is able to be shaped into anything ,but does not harden up like a putty ,but is a putty and will remove if necessary usually in  1 piece. Is not sticky ,but sticks.Great insulator for vibrations,holding wires in place,bulbs/led's in place.Is not a glue,Will not hurt the resin or paint ,and has no odor.
Johnny

It would make it easier,but modeling involves some customization and at times making parts to work the way you want .That is part of model railroading.Cannot have everything right out of the box. That would be too easy and anybody could do it then. Takes time to master these skills.Some have that natural eye hand thing.Others have to work at it.Either way it can be done with a good exercise in patience and practice. There are also a few different methods of lettering or numbers without removing the paint finish to change things out the way you want.Or if you cannot .There are plenty out there that could be for hire to do what you want.
Johnny

This means more functions to operate them ? Or all together with the headlight ?
Johnny

Hold both leads of your ohm meter together .It should be 0! 1.8 ohms is a indication of something going on somewhere .May be your meter leads.Your resistance should be  0 in the rail /wire connection .Any turn outs on your layout?
Johnny

Wire resistance? Should not have any! Connections yes ,if not soldered correctly or not at all. 0.2 ohms can be considered normal per connection. Resistance goes up with temp.So if your locos mechanism is not maintained it will pull more amps to operate and heat up.If not vented properly along with the high switching rate of say a Tsumani sound decoder you will pull more and take the chance of finding that bad connection somewhere if not solder correctly or not at all in the loco ,wiring connections or rail connectors.
I also had some issues with communication with Dynamis this was due to cracked solder joints in the circuit boards in the hand held and the receiver possibly due to the lack of lead in the solder they use now and or a little rough handling. Baked the boards in the oven stripped down completely of everything that would come off at the lowest oven setting for about 5 minutes on a cookie sheet with foil on it untill the smell of electronics that was heating up(If anybody has smelled fried smell of electronics) electronics .That is when they come out of the oven. This was a last ditch effort to fix it and it has worked flawlessly since. Found a article about somebody dong this with a pc motherboard that had success.
Johnny