Good thought, Bill. Thanks- MS

Any ideas where I might find a front step for my 45 ton side rod diesel. One step has broken off and I lost it. I've been quite successful at casting repair parts, but the open grid of the step has proven to be quite a challenge. I don't need the support strap, just the grid part.

Thanks, Bill

I see the post about tips for the early climax. Are there any tips that I should know for the 85093 climax?

Thanks, Joe. I'm on it. -Mike

Thanks, Bill. I'm in large scale. While I do have 5 or 6 Aristo cars, the majority of my rolling stock and locos are Bachmann. With the no. 6 turnouts, the long frogs necessitate polarity changing frogs for slow moving small locos like my 0-4-0's. I have one turnout that is not changing polarity at all and another that is intermittent at best. The replacement microswitch will need to have a very light touch. I've been a member here on the Bachmann forum for many years and hoped that one of the more-experienced regular members might have a source suggestion.  Best regards- Mike

Does anyone know of a good source for a replacement microswitch that goes under a number 6 turnout to switch the frog polarity? My 0-4-0 side tank keeps stalling on the turnout. I checked with a VOM and it appears the switch is not functioning.

When I had that spring problem with my 45 ton, I went to the local hardware store and described my problem. A sharp young clerk went to her locksmith equipment and we found a couple of springs which have worked very well. And since I was using them on a model railroad engine, she refused any payment! I'll definitely go back to that store! Good luck with your loco.-MS

Brian- I have the manual in pdf format. Email me and I'll send it to you. (I don't have a Photobucket account.)

Is there any problem with me scanning and posting a pdf of an instruction sheet/parts breakdown of a Bachmann engine on this board? I certainly don't want to break any rules, but the parts/service department suggested that this would be a place to find the information.

Brian- Did you ever find a copy of what you need? If not, I can dig out my manual and scan a copy for you.

Joe- Thanks for the info about the design. I pulled apart the old axle joint, grooved the smaller insert, and reattached the pieces with epoxy. The engine runs just fine now. In my experience even the old style mechanism is quite heavy duty. I have had a toddler actually hop onto the engine for a short ride. (That's how the front axle was eventually broken. It was much easier to repair!). Happily railroading , again....

Joe thanks for the reply. I had a front axle break on another one, but this is the first for the rear axle I see the 2 mm square hole in the drive gear,  but the axles to the wheels appear to be round are you saying the axle is square? If it is one continuous square rod, how is it insulated between wheels. Is the center of the wheel plastic? If so, could I just use a square shaft replacement?

On the real car there would be a short chain from the center of the bar to the top of the coupler pin. Lifting the end of the bar from a position clear of the track would allow the trainman to uncouple the car safely.

I have an old Bachman large scale tank engine that came in the Clementine mining set. It appears that the rear axle has broken. The rear drivers are free of each other. Service says no parts available. Does anyone out there have a similar engine with a stripped drive gear or a burned up motor?  I trying to piece it back together. It was always a good runner and the kids miss it. Thanks