Bad connection indeed, in my two other installs I simply disconnected and discarded the electrical components between the power wires to the motor and soldiered the wires to the decoder in the same place the wires between motor and wheel pickups had been. I did the same with this one.
Thete is a clip-on board where the wires are attached and that also holds the carbon brushes in place,  the power connection to the right of the motor is from a contact near the middle of the this clip-on board, on it's under side where it is not visible, not from where the + wire was originally attached on the top of the board.
By removing the electrical components I cut the connection to the motor. I have now connected the center and right soldier spots on the board and the problem is now solved.

The motor works, so there must be something wrong with the decoder ot the install .

Everything works but the loco does not move.
It appears to be the loco motor. I checked the volts with a Multi Mater with the loco on the track and as the chuff rate increases in speed the voltage delivered to the motor increases also, but it does not move.
It is my Fleischmann P8 N scale, I have had plenty of trouble with this motor in the past but I worked on it extensively and replaced the carbon brushes and before the install it was working very well on DC. I disconnected and discarded the little electrical component between the two motor poles as one is always instructed to do when doing this type of conversion.  I have disconnected the motor from the decoder and applied direct voltage, even without the little electrical component between the two motor poles  it works fine. Back on the main track with the decoder it does not move at all, the voltmeter still reads from 0 to 6.5 volts and all else works. ?? 

I have a simple EZ command that I never use, It would be nice if I could use it for  a separate work bench  programming track. I wonder if it possible.

What voltage is used on programming mode? Can it be measured with a multimeter?

Ha! Thanks to you both,  good to know.
Is the  work bench track  run on a second separate perhaps different DCC?

.I have studied the manual and have come to the following conclusions.
Please correct me if I am mistaken.
The only 3 reasons you would need a Service track are:
1. If you own locomotives with old decoders that do not accept Operations Mode programming.
2. If you would want to give (program) your locomotives  addresses  at home and belong to a club that runs over 99 locomotives. However even then it would make more sense to program your locos address at the club instead of going through  the unnecessary trouble of wiring and building your Service (programing) track. 
3. If you want to read the CV values presently programed on your locomotives decoders. In which case you will not only need a service track but also a Dynamis ProBox.

If you have less than 99 locomotives (with newer type decoders) on your layout you can program everything on the main track without having to remove any locos from the track.
If you have more than 40 locomotives on your layout  you would need more than 1 Dynamis, a lot of boosters and  I would imagine also a lot of other special equipment.

I have 8 locomotives, They will never leave my layout , so I am giving them simple logical addresses, 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 & 8. Once they have their respective address numbers I can give (program) a name and choose an icon for each loco,  change individual locomotive decoder speed steps and function settings. I can  also change the CV values of all or any CV. and even  manage consists, all this on the main track.  I can  record on paper or PC or Tablet or mobile phone. doc. the  CV values once I change them.  So as far as I can see I will not be needing a Service (programing) track.

If one would want to build a Service track for a Dynamis controlled layout ,  yow would need to  add a 15 cm long dead end segment connected to your track with a turnout and isolated  on both rails from the main track. The main wires that go from your DC power pack connector on the Dynamis to the track must be cut and a toggle switch installed so that the power is fed either to the main track or the service track segment.

The following statements here quoted from the Dynamis manual have led me to the above conclusions.


"Short addresses ("2-digit") can be written to a decoder using Main Track programming with other locomotives on the track. "

"Long addresses ("4-digit") must be written to a decoder by programming using a Service Track with no other locomotives present otherwise all locomotives will adopt the address. If necessary create a separate length of track powered by your Dynamis for this purposes.

"Once there are 40 roster entries one must be deleted to allow any other locomotives to be run."

"Dynamis has the capability of programming in one of two methods: 'Operations Mode ' (also called 'Main track programming') - other locomotives can be left on the track as the programming instruction is sent to the particular decoder address. 'Service Mode' makes the entire layout a service track. All decoders present on the layout will receive the programming instruction. Other locomotives should be removed from the track if using this method, or the locomotive programmed on an isolated Service Track. Decoders that do not accept Operations Mode programming should be programmed on a Service Track. Service mode also allows decoder CV values to be read: this is possible using the Dynamis ProBox."

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
It was the position, I did suspect that possibility, the receiver was right in an  upper corner  of the room, surrounded in very close proximity by white walls and white roof,  the position  can be seen in my first  photo, two wires, black and white where the receiver was connected can still be seen in that first photo.  I've spent the time I could spare  since the problem arose  relocating the receiver. Had to make a wood box, order a little wall mount, install 6 meters tubed electricity through  the attic amongst other things.
But  honestly I did not think this would work, but wow it did! And how! I can now  control the train from anywhere in the room.
With this new position there are no wires visible. I can switch the power off completely from anywhere in the room with the remote light switch inside the attic, this can be seen between the wall socket and the power supply on the second photo.
The third photo shows the little wood box with the receiver in the new position.
The fourth photo shows the track along 2 beams and the distant place from where I can now direct everything.
My 2 8 8 4 Bachmann runs beautifully along the roof beams, it is the only one since the other  5 locos have to have decoders installed. All six turnouts and their Peco motors work too! I feel like posting all my progress from now on and thanking all the people who have helped me with thus project in the forums. I will do this. I feel initiated to DCC!

Tried to upload 1 photo 127KB  -- A  message -- " The upload folder is full. Please try a smaller file and/or contact an administrator. "  

Photos can be seen on my latest post in nscale.net under DCC thread:  Bachmann EZ Command - I am confused as hell. (Please help)

I was hopping I could solve the problem without having to send it in, but the only help so far from Bachmann has been "Send it in" If only this would be like good car insurance,  that is,  that Bachmann  would provide me with a replacement Dynamis while they fix or replace mine, then that would be OK.
I just don't want to be without it when I have just finished my layout.
I'll wait a little longer for experts advice from Bachmann  or the forum before I part with it.

Tried without artificial lights, that is with only daylight comming from the windows,  even  tried with the wi fi router unplugged.  No change whatsoever.  
Users in England talk about the infrared working so well they can point the receiver in a totally different direction at quite a distance and  still it works fine for them?

Its going on 3 weeks and I still don't manage to get help from the service dept at Backmann, I get tired of waiting for ages for someone to become available when I ring, Laura who answers my emails when I write to Bachmann has very kindly tried to put me in contact with someone in the service dept but this week he has been away. Hopefully, probably next week I'll finally get some help.
But since I've spent months building my first ever DCC n scale layout , it is frustrating not to be able to use it because of the Dynamis.

There is something definitively wrong with the Infrared in my Dynamis, it's maximun range of 3 yards  is far to short and the sender must be pointed straight at the receiver and right on front of it for it to connect. Everything else seems to work perfectly.

I have been reading about infrared and it seems that it is a rather simple quite straight forward sender receiver communication. Which makes the fact that mine does not work properly an even greater mystery. I keep thinking that what prevents it from working as it should must be something rather simple. I've tried without the lights in the room  on and without the wi fi in the apartment on but it still does not work properly.
I have the following questions:
Can one use 2 infrared receivers in different places? I have the chance of buying an extra receiver with an extension cable that I imagine  could be split into two in order to connect both receivers at once.
Will a third party infrared range extender meant for TV work?
Will reflectors work? What type of reflector? Tinfoil? Mirror? Mounted on sender or receiver?
Is the problem more likely to be in the sender or the receiver?

I hope someone can help.

Thanks.

I have   telephoned the Dynamis service number but I am just kept waiting for ever, I tried emailing them but it is only possible through a "form" on their web page and when I press the "send" a  window invariably appears "sorry your message could  not be sent at this time"
That is the reason I contacted Bachmann direct. I hope they forward my letter to the people in charge of Dynamis.

Brand New Bachmann Spectrum item number 36505 E-Z Command Dynamis Wireless Infrared DCC System.

Why does the left green LED start flashing every so often for no apparent reason? The manual says it indicates a short on the track so I checked with a multimeter and this is absolutely not so.
I suspect that the Peco turnouts motors I have draw so much that the infrared signal is weakened and is lost. I have noticed that just after sending the signal to activate a turnout motor the signal weakens to 0. When the signal returns a second later the motor is activated.
I also suspect that the Dynamis is defective because the infrared signal and the power to the track comes and goes erratically , sometimes it might stay on for a few minutes, then all works correctly, sometimes it will stay of for a few minutes and nothing works.
I tested the infrared  range of the Dynamis by pointing the hand set  straight at the receiver and increasing the distance by backing up slowly, I invariably lost the signal completely at 3 yards distance.

I am not just ready yet to give up on Dynamis.  It was not exactly cheap. As  my last resort I am going to connect the Digitrax D64 decoder controlling 4 peco motors directly to 12 v. Which is an option.

Apart from changing decoders to sound decoders I'd like to try a separate "sound car" with its own sound-only decoder just for fun and hook it to  different locos, installation  and wiring is extremely  simple.

The following  is an excerpt from the The Bachmann publication    Quick Start Guide For Bachmann® DCC-Equipped Locomotives

"Additionally, this decoder has been designed to accept a "Plug and Play" sound module, designed specifically for Bachmann® by SoundTraxx® using their Tsunami® Digital Sound Technology "

I expected someone from Bachmann to comment on this.

The Bachmann 2 8 8 4 and 4 6 0 have DCC pre installed but no sound, it seems wasteful to buy a complete other decoder just to add sound. There must be an inexpensive solution for just adding sound to these locomotives. Any suggestions please?

I understand it is always advised to isolate/insulate  the motor from all else when installing a DCC decoder. Has anyone advice on the best way to do this? How exactly it is done? With What materials?
I imagine there are a few variations on how to do this depending on the type of motor, how and where it is mounted and whether it is DCC ready or not.
Here is a list of the n scale  locomotives I plan to convert:
At least 3 of these have the  motor and pickup on the tender so if there is no space anywhere I will mount decoder and speaker in car behind.
Bachmann American 4-4-0.
Atlas Mogul 2-6-0
Arnold  2546 KBAY P42  4-4-0
Fleischmann piccolo 7159  4-6-0
Kato 2007-2  C57  4-6-2
Bachmann Spectrum B&O EM-1  w/DCC - Baltimore & Ohio #7614 2-8-8-4
About the non Bachmann locomotives I have seaked advice in the nscsle.net forum.
Thanks in advance.