As the attached picture shows; to stop cars from derailing, I had to install a tube over the original spring inside the Bachmann track piece.

With small wire cutters, a grinding wheel, and tiny file, the copper tube was notched at the spring mount side, to firmly fit into the spring mount.  It should have also been epoxied into the mount, but not having epoxy I used aquarium silicone.  With needle nose pliers the tube was pinched at the far end, to reduce movement of the spring inside it.  Also the far end was filled with solder, to eliminate any spring movement.

After that ridiculous amount of fabrication, now a train can go forward or backward over the switched section, and forward and backward over the strait section, without derailing.

Separate from the fact that most consumers could not do this fabrication/repair themselves, this is not the proper solution because there is no reliability testing.  Only a manufacturer has the resources to do that.  Perhaps the copper tube will come loose after a few cycles, and the remote then has to be disassembled and repaired?  Or the tube was too long and now the excess tension causes the solenoid actuator to fail after a short number of cycles?

The answer was a simple large increase in spring tension.

I like Bachmann products, but the managers/executives/board members running the company, don't know what they are doing.

Daniel Lee

PS the Bachmann website isn't allowing me to upload a picture of the inside of the repaired remote, so I'm trying to upload a tiny picture of it.  That failed too, so I'm trying to post with no picture at all.

I finally got a DC controller and 16 VAC transformer, so at the same time I can both switch the remote, and have a train pass over it.  The train still derails!  And the derails still stop, when a piece of tape is placed on the little lug that pops out when the rails move. 

What's happening is the mechanism that holds the rails in place when the remote is not being actively switched, is not strong enough, and the car going over the remote moves the rails and the car derails.

I opened the bottom of the remote, and found the spring inside is of too low tension.  I will have to stiffen the spring.  This should be easy to do, by gluing something rigid to or around perhaps 1/4 of the spring.  This will shorten the arm of the spring, and greatly increase the tension.

The average consumer would not have been able to get to this point; for lack of equipment, tools, and knowledge.  I'm an attorney, and after all this unnecessary hassle, will send a bill for my time to Bachmann, and a request they properly label the package of the switch and the website page it is located on to show it only works with a DC controller, and for them to modify all switches to have springs of the correct tension.  If they don't pay and modify their advertising and remote spring, it's time for my first small claims lawsuit.

There was a 16 VAC transformer at the hardware store.  It is $10, and in addition to use it I would need a power cord, and some type of fuse or circuit breaker.  This would take way too much time to fabricate, and since this train set up is used at a Christmas party with a bunch of kids pushing and pulling on everything, can't take the risk they might access the transformer and shock themselves.

The wires from the 16 VAC transformer that power the DCC could be tapped into, or the DCC could be opened up and another plug installed in the case that has an output for the 16 VAC.  But again this takes too much time right now.

Why doesn't Bachmann make an output from the DCC controller with 16 VAC, or have an adaptor or some device to supply this?  There must be many hobbyists that have run into this unnecessary problem.

You guys are great. 

I borrowed a DC controller, hooked it to the remote switch's lugs, and it snaps the remote from one direction to the other.  I then connected the lugs to the 16 VAC that the DCC provides to the track, and as you noted it is a different kind of AC and it doesn't operate the remote.

So the answer to my original questions #1 and #3 will be to get a step-down transformer that supplies 16 VAC (I read these are available at a hardware store as a doorbell transformer), and solder it to the lugs that go to the remote's switch. 

The wall transformer that powers the DCC controller, was used to power the DC controller I used to verify the remote works.  So I  wasn't able to run the trains while the remote was powered, and I don't yet know if my question #2 the derailing problem will be solved when the remote is always powered.  I don't think it will be solved, as the power only seems to be really applied when switching the remote, and when static it is held in place by springs inside the remote.  I read on another post someone opened their remote and put in a stronger spring.  I may end up doing the same.

So far it appears Bachmann has made the mistakes of; 1. Not labeling the package or their webpage to clearly state this remote does not work with a DCC controller, 2. Not having a substitute device when using a DCC that would power the many older style remotes out there and forcing customers to fabricate a product (very few consumers could do this and it is actually dangerous as you are dealing with 115 VAC on the transformer primary), and 3. The remote probably has insufficient spring pressure again causing the customer to fabricate a fix.

I'd like to hear from a Bachmann rep to address these points.
   

Thanks for the response.  It is a DC remote.  There is nothing on the package that says it won't work with a DCC controller, so as an average consumer and non-train expert, there was nothing to indicate there might be a mismatch.  Also on the website is is the same thing, no mention of what controller it does or does not work with:  http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=195.  That's a problem for the manufacturer. 

And yet the remote may be able to work with a DCC controller.  Does all it need is a 16 VAC source?  The DCC controller does provide one.  It supplies the track with 16 VAC, and presumably there is plenty of current behind it as this drives the locos.  To use this, would only require a simple adaptor to go from the post type lugs on the remote switch, to the blade type lugs on the power/rerailer track piece's second and open connector.

If this is all that is needed (and I'm not sure it is), the manufacturer could have included this simple adaptor.

I'm trying to add a remote turnout item #44562 to my DCC powered simple loop Christmas train set.

Problem #1; the power connection for the remote switch has spade lugs that go on a small post, and there are no such posts on a DCC controller!  Nothing on the package addresses this, and a call today to Bachmann was not returned.  The package shows the lugs being connected to an older style analog controller.  There is 16VAC on the flat lugs on the open side of the power/rerailer track piece (which comes from the DCC), and is there an adapter that would connect the post lugs from the switch to the flat lugs on the power/rerailer/ track piece?  Or do I need to also have an older style analog controller to power the remote switch? Or do I need to purchase a 16VAC transformer, and wire it to the lugs on the remote switch?  This issue must have come up to many hobbyists before, and yet I don't see the answer in the forums.

Problem #2; A car will derail when going either direction when traveling down the curved section of the cutout track piece.  I am able to stop this by putting a piece of tape in a little slot on the track, which keeps the switching section firmly in place.  It seems the little spring pressure that is in the mechanism, isn't enough to hold the switching section in place. 

Problem #3; I can temporarily connect the lugs mentioned in problem #1 to the 16VAC on the open lugs of the power/rerailer track section.  So the switch has power.  However when following the direction on the package to push the switch down and then move over, the remote cutout track piece switching section does nothing.  It does not move in either direction. 

I have an Associate Degree in Electronics Technology with Honors, and have been an aircraft instrument technician for over 20 years.  I am very familiar with DC/AC electronics, soldering, switches, etc.  In my experiences with Bachmann products there is regularly a piece of information or physical hardware missing, to prevent operation of their product.

It should be very simple to snap in this piece of track, hook up the wires, and go.  Any information you have why it isn't happening will be greatly appreciated.

Daniel Lee