Thanks to all who have made suggestions.  I believe I will proceed with a woodworking style air cleaner/dust collector in each train room.  They function best when ceiling mounted and I can place them over isle ways since my layout plan is complete (wish my rooms were).  They are fairly quiet - most come with remote controls and are usually set to run for several hours after one leaves the room.

Much obliged for the suggestions,

Robin

Part of my train room(s) are under the garage which is sometimes called a suspended ceiling.  Apart from dealing with water and dampness it is the cheapest square footage available for trackage rights. I'm using tap con fasteners to attach 2x2s to the ceiling.  The 2x2s carry romex for lighting and foam insulation fills the gaps between 2x2s.  Another layer of foam insulation goes over the 2x2s and finally drywall is attached with long screws.  The point in all this is to say that all the concrete surfaces will be covered or sealed in the case of the floor.  Never-the-less dust just happens and I don't wish to try and enclose the entire layout in Plexiglas.  I have a couple of these air cleaners hung in my workshop, also under a concrete ceiling but their weight requires much more serious concrete expanding anchors.  The main house basement doesn't pose a problems because I can just attach the air cleaners to the overhead floor joists.  there will be some additional wiring but that is easy to do before the drywall goes up.  I suppose the worst thing that could happen is they won't make a difference and I can sell them on Craig's List.

Has any one any experience with using an air filter sometimes called a dust collector similar to what woodworking shops use on their ceilings?  These machines, usually hung on the ceiling, are simply boxes that draw air threw a furnace type filter with a fan.  They are designed to mitigate dust left in the air after a woodworking session.  I'm just finishing a part of my basement with a concrete ceiling and need to add some additional supports if I am to hang one of these filters from the ceiling. 

I may be solving a problem I don't have but thought I'd see if anyone has had success doing this.

Regards,

Robin

TrainMan,

I agree - there are lots of very nice looking brass engines available for the era I'm looking for.  I went through a "brass phase" many years ago.  When good running plastic steam was introduced I sold all the brass I had and swore I'd never fiddle with it again.  My hat is off to those who can get brass locomotives to run smoothly.  I'm just not part of that group.

Robin

Hello,

I'm in the planning stage of a Southern Pacific layout circa 1920s set in California.  My plan is to model portions of Ft MacArthur and Mare Island shipyard from that era.  Another portion of the layout will have mountain scenery.  My dilemma is finding period correct SP locomotives capable of pulling 25 + car freight trains up a 2% grade.  I'd appreciate any thoughts or suggestions on motive power.  SP used quite a few 2-10-2s which would be ideal.  Heavy 2-8-2s would work also as long as I can attach a Vanderbilt oil tender to the locomotive.

Thanks,

Robin

I believe Roco (minitanks) makes a 1/87th Huey.  Microscale offers military decals if you choose to make your own.  I've built up a collection of military equipment on flat cars from the 50s era.  It's been fun:  http://www.pwmrc.org/freefest2004/index.htm

Robin

I realize I'm late to the party but wanted to add something to what the Duke said.  All the cars need to weigh the correct amount based upon their length.  The NMRA standard is 1 oz plus 1/2 oz for each inch of body length.  So a 40 foot car should weight 3.7 oz and a 50 foot car around 4.5 oz. 

I'm a volunteer at a large layout in KC and we have similar problems with the daily startup and stopping of the trains jerking them off the rails.  I'm thinking about momentum power packs to get them rolling more smoothly.

I recommend the January GSMTS in Timonium MD.  http://www.gsmts.com/ It's the largest of their quarterly shows and worth an overnight visit if you like to shop.  I personally recommend the white elephant table!!

Robin

NWSL makes (or made) powered trucks that might be adapted to a tender.

Robin

Thanks for all the tips folks.  I really appreciate the level of experience and help available on this forum.

Regards,

Robin

Thanks for the replies.  There's one vote for each method.  Assuming enough real estate exists for either method - what are the reasons for planning track before scenery or vice versa?

Thanks again,

Robin

Jeff,

The upside down plate girder is a good idea but will probably give Cody an ovehead clearance problem with the track below.  Cody, how about using the plate girder bridge right side up and just widening the sides enough to accomodate your 22 inch radius curve?

Robin

I have finally reached the point where my basement walls are defined enough to begin layout planning.  I have 80% of the studs up and will be able to begin wiring in a few weeks.  Although oddly shaped the two rooms contain a lot of space for trains - about 1500 square feet. My happy dilemma is; do I design the mainline first with the largest possible radius or do I plan the scenes and industries then draw a track plan to support them.  Rough sketches indicate that 40-42 inch radius curves will be possible.  John Armstrong's book doesn't cover this type of issue so I thought I'd put the question before the forum.

Thanks,

Robin

there is a solution i have found that works well, but i've never seen any of the "experts" in the magazines do it. rather than remove the ties under the joint, youuse a hobby knife to carve the spike heads away. also, carve a slight bit off the tops of the ties under the rail, just enough to slip the rail joiners on. you can then solder the joint. this method works very well on curves which require more than s ections of flex track. you lay your first two sections down, carve the ties on the fixed rail side of the 2nd and t3rd pieces of track. thread the sliding rail into the tie strip of the 3rd section, and join the two sections together and solder the fixed rails together.
now, bend the 3rd section into the curve you want and fasten it down. the sliding rail of the second section, slid into the ties of the 3rd section, should push the sliding rail partway out of that section. trim the spike heads off and carve the tops of the ties where the sliding rail ends. add the rail joiner, slide the rail from the 3rd section into the joiner and solder. repeat for as many sections as you need.

Jeff,

I like your idea of leaving the ties in place and just removing the tie plates.  How do you prevent those ties directly below the soldering operation from melting?  I use a resistance soldering tool and as quick as that is any plastic within ¼ inch of the rail joint will deform.

Thanks,

Robin




this method has one huge advantage. when you are soldering the rails together, they are staggered from each other, and the opposite rail and the flex track itself willminimize any kinks in the joint
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I've had good luck using Future floor finish as the base gloss coat.  Best is airbrushed but can also be brushed on by hand. Steps above are great for decal application.