Yup; I like them too. I found out that the Tyco culvert flats could be easily converted into coil cars and will do about seven for the club layout. A Tyco Baldwin Sharknose is getting a new lease on life. It now has the mechanism from a superweight Athearn F7 installed inside the carbody (bought as body only at a train show) A little metal had to be removed from the nose end of the underframe to let the Tyco carbody sit flat upon its new underframe, The nicest thing was the discovery that the Sharknose carbody was able to snap on to the tabs that Athearn used to mount their own carbodies to the mechanism. A match that looks like it was purposely designed that wasy at the factory from the beginning. The last thing done to this model was to replace the EMD Blomberg trucks with thos from an Alco RS-3 trucks by Roundhouse. these were ordered from Athearn. I am still working on this model for it is my intention to add a sound decoder to it. Yours, William Rupert

Dear Bachmann:  I am the proud owner of a pair of GE 70 Tonners I am  just delighted with them. I did notice that the coupler shank which came with these engines was way too long for realistic appearance. I installed the shortest shank couplers I had in my spare parts box. The locomotive footboards are now a realistic distance from each other yet still navigate the tightest industrial spur on the  club layout with out touching each other.         Two minor weaknesses have made themselves apparent. (1) The headlights at one end of the engine could be a little bit brighter. Is there an easy fix?  (2) I admit that they are a bit noisy however and wonder what can I do to quiet down some of the noise I hear?  If sucessful in this endeavor; I would then like to add sound to these very good running models.       Do you have plans to produce a decoder to fit this engine with sound capabilities built in to it?        (FYI) I ran these two locos today on a 15 car plus caboose coal drag on the club layout. I purposely chose to run the train against the steepest grade on the mainline. The train never stopped moving in this stretch but did slowly but steadily climb the hill between Galt and Newton.  These tracks are located in a cut so I was not able to observe whether or not wheel slip existed. All in all; a really nice product but it does need sound. Yours, William Rupert

RIX Products makes a kit for small Quonset hut in both HO and N scales. See the Walther's catalog or your local hobby shop. Willrupe

I myself have a unknown number of engines that would most certianly f1t into your good running category. It would be hard to reccomend a specific locomotive for you witout knowing more details about the type of railroad you are modeling and it's setting. Factors to consider are whether you are modeling mainline or branchline, fast freight or drag tonnage. Whether passenger operations will be included or not, and choice of era meaning the window of time that you are using. Another factor to bear in mind when these choices are being made is whether you are following a specific prototype railroad. This is vital to your decision making even if you are modeling a fictional division of your favorite railroad. A fully freelanced railroad may allow you to take more liberties with the exception that good prototype (all railroads ) practices should be followed to keep the realism factor at a high level. Another factor in making your choices could be what your skill levels are. How much of the work involved in modifying a model to your needs can you do yourself? Do you belong to or can you visit a local model railroad club? During the visit ask them to if you could run or if someone could run a model that you are interested in. The decision you should make is what model fits your needs best. You may have to visit your local library and while there ask the librarian to help find some books to check out. Read them and you may be able to answer your own questions Books cataloged under the Dewey Decimal System  on real railroads start with the number 385.xxx and those books dealing with model trains start with the number 625.xxx. If you would like to discuss this further I can be reached at this web address:       [email protected]         I would like as much imformation as you feel willing to provide so that I could give you a more specific answer. I also urge you to visit the following website which belongs to the model railroad club I belong to:      http://www.qcsme.org     Use Yahoo when visiting this site as Google often says it is unable to find it. Hoping to hear from you soon.  Yours, William rupert

The most easily available pieces of 15 inch radius track are made by another company (ATLAS) and have the same degrees of curvature per section of track as their  18 inch radius track which is 30 degrees.

Hi: I got to try this post again as I think I didn't get the last one sent off propperly. I have been looking in my local hobby shops for years seeking a glimpse of a CB&Q "N" scale doodlebug. Has this paint scheme ever been produced? This item would be my very next purchase if it were available especially if the model came equipped with a pre-installed DCC decoder inside it. One last touch would be to offer this as a sound equipped model as well but even I might hesitate at the increased price that would result. Yours, William Rupert

Hi: I am thinking about selling a new never used Bachmann EZ Command DCC system. Everything is there and it is still in the original box. I have been unable to disccover whether or not I can expand beyond two control stations? I have also noticed that an eight wire telephone type connector is located on the back of the unit. What I have yet to find out is whether or not I can connect this controller to my computer? I also wonder if there have ever been any upgrades offerred for this system? Yours. Wm Rupert

Is there any easy to get realistic spacing between EMD FT A & B units. My stock factory models have this glaring discrepancy assaulting my eyeballs everytime I look at them. I am willing to make drawbars for them if neccessary. Also while I am on this subject I was wondering if an ultra short shank coupler is available to mount at the nose end of an A unit. I feel that the coupler trip pin should just barely clear the pilot of the locomotive. Mine appear to be about 1/8th of an inch too long. I have put the shortest shank couplers I have on my GE 70 tonner and have not experienced any problems on my club layout after making this change. All comments appreciated. Yours, William Rupert