Thank You, Fred.  Did you make any attempt to make the gate stay down permanently?  For my purposes, this may work.

I have purchased several of these on E bay.  They are readily available, either as single cars or 3 car sets.  All of the ones I have seen are Rapido couplers.

I just received a brand new, sealed box Crossing Gate Kit for a "fun" layout on a family room shelf.  It is a simple dog bone.  When I installed it, I was a little surprised to see it was a mechanical gate closing system.  There is a plate between the tracks that the train presses down to close the gates.  This plate sits HIGHER than the rails.  The first loco I tried was a Kato F3A, which hit the plate, stopping dead in its' tracks.  Next, I tried an Atlas GP9, which hit the plate, but did cross.  Going the opposite direction, it barely cleared.  I rolled one box car over, and it hit, too.

This is a layout I like to just run unattended in the evening and listen to the clack clack.  This accessory was supposed to add a little interest, but I am afraid to run anything across this unattended.

There were no instructions at all beyond where to stick the cross bucks.  Is this plate height normal??  Is it adjustable??  Does anyone else have this accessory?  Does it work for you??

I just received a Spectrum FT7 from repair (replacement unit).  It had not been properly packed, and arrived with the rear coupler knocked off.  It does not appear damaged, just loose.  I have no instruction sheet, and I have been unable to find a sufficiently detailed sheet to see how to reattach it.  It is not obvious how to remove the truck to get to the coupler box.  Can someone please help???

Gordon

Before you order the Prarie 2-6-2, read the thread on Page 2 called  PRARIE 2-6-2 ON A GRADE.  I had problems with mine, and this WONDERFUL group offered many excellent suggestions.  First, save a little money and get tho 0-6-0.  It is the same loco without the leading and trailing trucks, which are unnecessary trouble.  Second, keep the grade to 2%.  It is very important!  2% grade means 2 inch rise over a 100 inch run.
Gordon

Thanks again.  I never considered track radius, but it is a BIG issue for some cars.  They may simply be upper track (11 radius) only cars.  You have given excellent suggestions.  Now I have some work to do!

Gordon

Thank you for all of your good responses.  It is appreciated.

Random thoughts and responses:

One car losing its' wheels is a brand new Atlas.

I have several "Old Tyme" Passenger cars.  Most of them run okay.  One gave problems and I replaced the problem truck with an MTL passenger truck.  Conversion car.  Still have problems.

The rest of my cars are 40 - 50 foot, mostly box cars.   The layout is a simple oval.  Inner loop is 9 ¾ radius.  Outer loop is 11 ½ radius. 

There are a couple places more prone to derail, but "good" cars have no problem in these areas.  "Poor" cars can derail anywhere.   "Poor" cars will derail anywhere in the consist.  "Good" cars seldom derail, regardless of location.  Long consists  derail a little more, farther back in the consist.  I suspect correct weight would fix this???

Except for a couple cabooses, all cars are truck mount couplers.

How do you shim a car?? Why do you shim a car??   The trucks set the space to the track.  This also fixes the coupler height.  How can these be adjusted?  Why is the height of the car above the truck, which can be shimmed, important?

I do have an NMRA gauge.  I will check flange spacing.

I have had cars with too low trip pins.  I carefully bent it up a little.

How do you clean truck axle ends?  Toothpick??  dental pick??  Other??  Can or should the axle ends be lubricated??

I am relatively new to N scale. I have purchased several cars, both new and used.  Some are Rapido, others are knuckle couplers of various brands.  Some are great runners.  Others, not so much.  I have replaced some trucks and couplers with MTL, which sometimes works.  I have added weight up to NMRA recommendations, which sometimes works. 

Any suggestions??

I also have a couple new cars which like to "lose" their wheels (one set, out of warrenty).  Is the only fix to replace the trucks???

I have some cars that roll smoothly, but have excessive drag.  What do you suggest?

Thank you in advance.  The folks on this site are truly experts and very helpful.

Gordon

Thanks for all your GOOD info.  I have a Spectrum tender now.  The loco is CLEARLY not balanced.  The center of gravity (CG) is at or behind of the back driver.  How or where can I add weight to move the CG forward?

You can often find the transformer on E Bay.  I bought two of them a year ago, and I have seen several listed since.  They are cheap - $10 to $20 and in decent shape.   Good luck on original track.

I have recently gotten into N scale.  I have purchased quite a few pieces of used rolling stock. How can I tell the different manufacturers' products apart?  Most of these cars are older with Rapido couplers.  Any "words of wisdom" for changing trucks / couplers?

This board has provided excellent help in the past.  Thank you in advance.

If you are taking this on the road, you may wish to build the layout on a thin (¼ inch) plywood sheet. Do all your wiring, etc. under the board (exposed for now), and bring your lead wires to the edge of the sheet.  When done, add ¾ inch furring strips around the edge with notches for the wires.  Add some internal furring strips for support, then glue or screw another sheet of ¼ inch plywood to the bottom. 
You have built your own "hollow core door" base with all wiring inside the door.

Good Luck!

Thank all of you for the suggestions.  I am still relatively new to N scale... What is bullfrog snot?  I am sure it is a good description, but what is the trade name?  Where do I get it? 

I just set up these same cars with an old F7 with bad bearings, and it easily pulled 7 cars around the track.  Once again, your evaluation appears absolutely on target.  Thanks again.
Gordon

I just got a new Prairie Steamer.  It is a beautiful little loco.  My layout has 11 ¼ curves and a short (12 inch) 2% grade.  The loco could not pull 5 Old Tyme passenger cars up the grade.  It has some trouble pulling just 3 cars up the grade.  The loco wheels spin.  Any suggestions other than running on absolutely flat track only?  Is there any way to weight the loco to improve traction?

MR. BACH MAN

I purchased a Prairie 2-6-2 last Christmas.  It ran 4 or 5 times around my small (10 feet) layout when it basically quit.  The front two drive wheels were loose on the axle, flopping all over and impossible to get on the track or keep on the track.  I returned it to Bachmann and they sent me a new one, (I think) .  Because of other track issues, I rebuilt all my track, and just completed that job today.  With much anticipation, I got my new Prairie out.  It went around the track 5 or 6 times.........  The front two drive wheels are no longer on the axle, just like the last time.

WHAT IS GOING ON?

Is this a recurring problem?  If (when) I send this in for repair AGAIN, what can I expect?  One that works or another expensive paperweight?  Do I have any other options?

All my other locos (all diesel) run fine on the new track.