What's wrong with this picture?
HO scale e7 announcement I was excited and interested.
O scale pictures?
Long wait...
cold, short or no answers from Bachmann...
This thread is getting off topic and or going in another direction>>>>>>>
I mean, pre production art work would have been better than the 0 Scale representation.....
At this point I'm not interested anymore
#frustrated

@Hunt...
Thank you so much for that definitive answer. I have looked at them in the catalog and have wondered about that for a loooooong time. I incorrectly thought you could just turn it upside down....

Thanks again for clearing that up #direction of travel..   #brilliant!!!!!!

I think you need a gap (or insulated rail joiner) on at least on rail on the divergent route. See common rail wiring  at

http://www.nmra.org/beginner/wiring

Hope this helps.

Model Power although they ceased their operations are being handled/marketed by MRC

re: Trainman23, that was an EXCELLENT IDEA about using the black EZ on dead end spurs.

re:jbrock27, Thank you.... tarnish was the word I was looking for but at the time this old brain could not fish it out.

Yes you can do that. I have even seen transition track (cifferent code rail at each end)
Real rail roads do the same thing using a special joint bar......

To KK

No brass no good either. it corrodes like a brass lamp outdoors. I have test ballasted the gray ez trak and it looks fine...... use either fine HO scale or coarse n scale. But if you have to invest in something else anyway (which I do) I'd go with cork, good quality nickel silver code 70 or 83 flex track , and solder every joint or apply feeders to every piece of track.  (approx every 3 feet) using a bus.

To KKTrains
I m sure somebody said this but my first set of ez track was the black. I ended up having to cleaning it with a track cleaning pad a lot more often than I wanted to.
When it gets dirty the locomotive wheels do not pick up the electricity well and you have locos that stall.

Hi I too am keenly interested in seeing at least a pre production sample of the new E7. How soon can we see that?

Hi I know you got an answer from the Bach Man already, but I wanted to reiterate a thing or two.

From your question I assumed that If you wanted to run two trains indepently that you would be using two power packs. I'm just asking because you made no mention of the second pp in your question.

Then if that is the case, you "MUST" isolate the crossover. (i.e. cut a gap in both rails. The referenced acela article mentions the feeder wires underneath as well.

At that point your  crossover is basically just for show. I had the same type of layout with the same issue. What I did was leave the crossover intact and let it switch into a section of track that one of the loops can actually use. It could be a third loop either inner or outer, or a double ended siding with spurs extending past each end, or even a small yard if you have the room.

You could get another crossover and do the same thing on the other side of the layout. The outer loop would switch to the outside, the inner loop would switch to the inside.  At the part of the layout where this occurs you would actually have three tracks (or more) vs two. I hope I have not  thoroughly confused you. I am building the same type of layout. One for me, one for my dad!!!!!!!!!!!!   

let me know what you think, including you Bach man!!!! have a good day

An 0-5-0 huh??? had to think about that for a minute, then I realized I had two of them. Hilarious!!!!!!!!

We've all seen the ad's in MR with the beautifully ballasted EZ track right? and before anyone blasts me I realize RZ track is primarily intended for tabletop and carpet/floor use but I plan on using it for something a little more permanent. The photo gallery here shows several shots of ballasted EZ track.
What is your experience on ballasting the EZ track? Was it hard to get the ballast to go where you wanted it to go / stay on the bank???
I am setting up an experiment in the work room. A 3 foot straight section of EZ track parallel to a 3 foot section of conventional track and cork roadbed and see how much different they look sfter ballasting. I'll paint the rails with a small paint brush. My thinking is that I will need a very fine grade of ballast to work with for the EZ track due to the shallow depth between the top of the tie and the plastic roadbed between the ties.

I really love the RZ track for the solid connections and the 33 & 35" curve sections.

Any thooughts?  Thanks looking forward to hear of anyone's experience.