I have one, I was rather fond of it when I still had a layout to run it on. The only problem was the cowcatcher fell of and I never managed to get it back on correctly, I can't figure out how it originally attached so eventually I just glued it on "close enough". A decent runner, with good pulling power and even handled my tighter curves somewhat well.

They show up on ebay pretty dang often though, so I donno how willing I'd be to pick up one thats a known problem child.

Quote from: Ken Huck on January 29, 2023, 11:46:06 PMWhy'd you even ask to begin with ?

I'm sorry but I don't quite follow? I asked because I wanted to know, and figured that rather than comb through hundreds of search results and videos looking for the good ones, I'd ask and see if anybody here had resources they liked already on hand. I know in my other hobbies, and in my profession, it is an extremely common thing to ask for good places to learn about new skills and the like. Insiders are, after all, more likely to already know what is wheat, and what is chaff.

I appreciate the links Ken, though, and maybe I'm just blind, but it seems the first is for buying models, and the second is for paying for their restoration? Useful links to be sure, but I'm looking to do the work myself. I find I'm quite handy these days after all, far more than I was as a kid when I as likely to permanently destroy a loco as I  was to get it back together again!

Hey there! Now that this site is back, I figured I'd throw this here too since I've not had much luck looking elsewhere and have gotten good advice here in the past.

So, a few months ago, I FINALLY found my grandfathers missing brass locomotives. Unlike most of the rest of his collection, these I have no intention of selling off, but they need a lot of work, and so I've kind of made a commitment to myself to pick one and start restoring it this spring once my leg heals up (and then onto the next one and so on). Does anybody have any good links on working with HO Brass? In particular:

-Cleaning Oxidation
-Dealing with Corrosion (the Climax in particular has BAD green corrosion, I hope it isn't a lost cause)
-Fixing the electrics (most don't run at all due to age)
-Lubrication (don't know if it is different for brass)
-Painting
-Adding Headlamp Holes (I ASSUME I can just drill the can open but if I'm wrong, I'd like to know)
-Repairing/Replacing damaged parts
-Converting to DCC (the big one, I don't actually have an HO layout anymore, had to switch to N for space reasons, so this isn't a huge deal but I figure prepping the models for DCC down the line would be best done while i'm in there, even if I setup temporary "jumpers" for now in place of actual decoders)

And I'm sure more questions will come as I work, so yeah, lot of info out there, just looking for good resources to get started. Thanks!

Pics of the locos for the curious: https://imgur.com/a/iggutAw

Dang straight! I found myself in need of some information I remembered Jonathan having shared some time ago about working with brass, and was surprised to see the site long down, had worried about the loss of so much information!

All nice improvements, but I find it difficult to believe they would actually invest the money to do that. The 2-8-0 has remained popular, and sold well, for ages with very few changes. (though the new headlight is hilarious to me because it went from invisible on the old one, to blinding on the new one).

I had a 2-8-0 with this issue. Turned out that one set of drivers was out of quarter. Twisting them into alignment solved it. I'd check that.

~150 for a good starter set DCC system
~30/ locomotive for the Decoders (if they already have them, that's great. You also need to install them which is a time investment, or pay somebody to do it. The overwhelming majority of engines from the last few years will be either already DCC equipped, or have sockets for easy installation, but not all

If you want to hook up turnouts and such to DCC, thats an additional expense.

Trackwork can almost certainly be left as is however.

I've had to do a LOT of this (pet hair will get into every nook and cranny of everything you own). I my tiny tweezers that I use for electronics repair. Its tough to get 100% of it, but 98% comes off with careful pulling and some patience. I've also found quite a bit wraps around the axles, usually not an issue but I did have to remove the bottom plate of a 2-8-0 to remove a particularly nasty clump once.

Quote from: graywolf on August 21, 2020, 07:53:41 AM
I don't understand the logic of all the replies to Iceman. He mentions a Digitrax product and gets dissed for not talking Bachmann. Then all the following replies talk about other than Bachmann products. Seems like a double standard. BTW I use NCE wireless Procaband love it. Ha

I think its because since we're on a platform hosted by Bachmann, people dont want to be impolite and essential recommend NOT buying a bachmann product.

Its understandable IMO. And for what its worth, I Love my NCE Powercab. I had to replace it because the controller portion was lost during some shuffling about some years ago, but was happy to do so. I did have an EZ command as my first unit, but not only was it quite simple in features, it burned out after like 3 months. Though Bachmann did replace it for me for free.

Quote from: prr22 on June 26, 2020, 11:00:13 PM
I transport my stuff all the time to the club and, well, I tend to break stuff just as much.  I recommend storing locomotives in original packaging.  If you don't have it, at least use tissue paper (preferably white but if not that's ok) against the engine, with layers of newspaper and/or bubblewrap outside of that.  For cars, honestly, just a single sheet of newspaper.  Store this all in a cardboard box because, trust me, bags break.  A lot LOL.

Luckily, I have the boxes for MOST of my equipment.

For the few pieces I dont have them, I actually have a really cool thing, and I wish I knew where to get more of them but its this:
 
https://imgur.com/a/laPVMkv

these are the boxes that a store I used to work at recieved their loose flash drives in. I took three of them home one day and they are fantastic. because the slots are so numerous and close together, you can cut our more or less the exact contour of the cars and have very snug fitting space to hold them. Its really great.

Excellent Song. Not bad advice Either 

I'm pondering maybe gluing a short straight section of track to a board I can keep laid up against the wall or something so I can at least run a loco back and forth every now and then, when I get the urge. Gonna be interesting moving to this smaller space. Hopefully, when I get my own place, I'll have enough room to rebuild a proper layout.

I too wonder about the purpose of upright storage.

I keep the box to most things I own, helps for packing AND when I retire equipment (usually electronics) and can sell it as Complete in box

I'll soon be moving into an apartment that is too small to bring the Layout with me (it aint much, a simple 4*8, but still too big for this space). I am planning to pack up the locomotives, Rolling stock, and  perhaps the track (undecided on that point, its regular ez track). Anything in particular I need to do to the locomotives to prepare them for storage? I expect it'll be a while until they are broken out again, at least a year.

My current Steam Fleet is

3 Bachmann 2-8-0
1 Spectrum SY 2-8-2 
1 Bachmann USRA 4-6-2
1 Bachmann 2-8-4

I also used to own a 2-10-0, which I loved, but it broke down and was swapped by bachmann service for the 4-6-2.

All of these run on the 18 inch curves... but the 2-8-4 will occasionally jump track so its not reccomended.
From what I see, the USRA 2-8-2 is supposed to work on 18, but its probably cutting it close, and i cant imagine it looks terribly good doing it.

My reccomendation for good steam on 18 is the 2-8-0. Its a great looking engine, runs well, strong puller, and will run fine on those curves.

As far as your Mike goes, I'll second the assertion that you should look at the trucks and see if they are catching. also, do you have the drawbar set on the close or far holes? You might need to back it up.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/130510115592732672/712732969692823572/MVIMG_20200520_1425202.jpg

This is a picture of the turnout i filed, and the spot i smoothed is circled in red. Not saying this is your problem, just a possibility.

Edit: I Just noticed that You said its always the tender that derails, May also want to check that the tender is sitting flat on the rails, I used to have a 2-10-0 where the tender came off CONSTANTLY as the wire harness lifted the front of the tender slightly.