Quote from: Hunt on December 15, 2011, 09:18:02 PM
Out of the package a Bachmann #6 turnout is all routes live type and its metal frog is not powered (dead and isolated). Connect the loose end of the black wire to the post in the hole underneath the frog. When the black wire is connected, the frog is powered and the turnout is wired so the frog will have the correct polarity for the line (route) of the turnout. 

Having cut off the green cord, you are now not able to set the line of the turnout using the remote controller (the black side switch) that came with the turnout.  You will have to add a stationary decoder to change the line of the turnout using DCC. For now,  you will have to use the manual slide switch on the side of the turnout to change the line of the turnout or reattach the green cord.

It is possible you have not correctly wired the track passed the frog on the divergent route. Hope you have a good model railroad basic wiring book.

When I power the frog, as you suggested, the turnout works only one way, not the other at all, it shorts.

Quote from: jward on December 15, 2011, 02:02:49 AM
are these the ones with the power routing frogs? do the locomotives stop when one of the wheels touch the frog? do they work properly when thrown one direction but not the other direction?

it sounds like the frog is the wrong polarity, and causing a short when the loco wheels hit it.

I guess so, the product number is Bachmann remote turnouts #6 (44560), yes, they do, exactly, they go one way without a problem, but not the other way. How come the frog is wrong polarity, supposedly it's DCC friendly. I just installed the turnouts without any wiring and cut off the three green wires, in order to install them. So what can I do now using DCC ? Is it a problem that I cut off the green wires ? It's said that the turnouts will operate correctly whether or not wired !

and now I see even larger locos stop, like SD 40-2, I think they or something causes a short, because all the other locos stop and lighted bumpers stop shining. Are the wheels out of gauge or something ? What could be wrong with #6 turnouts ? I don't see any visible issues. How can I fix it ?

I recently bought Bachmann remote turnouts #6 (44560) and use them without connection on my DCC layout and short locos like GP 35, 40, FT-A, etc. stop right in the middle of the turnout. Why ? Aren't they DCC friendly ? What's the problem ? 

Quote from: ebtbob on December 11, 2011, 07:09:38 AM
Good Morning All,

       I am having a tough time understanding how a lightweight plastic shell would scratch metal rails.   The amount of pressure needed to make those scratches should be enough to prohibit the engine from running over the track.

It runs well but just scrapes along the track, which makes me very uncomfortable, worried about the loco and new track. The shell is too low and the imperfection of the track level takes a toll, I have 5 plus 8x4' plycem sheets put together. Based on what you all say, it might be the way this loco just is. I'd better not touch it if I want it alive. Thank you.

Quote from: Jerrys HO on December 10, 2011, 10:26:04 PM
czech-

I looked at one of my ft's and the best way I can tell you to check if the body is seated right is to turn the engine over and the shell body and the frame should be even.
I do not think this is your problem because the screws holding the shell to the frame would have to have broken where the screws mount to the body. Did you accidentally drop the engine? I also measured the front of the shell to the base of E Z track roadbed and it appears to be 3/8 to 7/16 gap between the two.

Jerry

which would be ... in milimeters, please ? Everything's even. No, it's intact, I've never dropped it.

Quote from: jward on December 10, 2011, 06:13:10 PM
you can do what you want, but it sounds like the body shell isn't seated properly. i will have to take a close look at my ft when i get a chance and see if i can figure it out.

great, take a picture and post it, I'll compare, it could be that, that the shell is not seated properly, so what could I do ? How should I proceed ?

both, I can't cut 5 milimeters of the snowplow shell, can I ?

sorry, no camera, but it's brand new, out of the box, when I look at it from bottom up, nothing seems wrong, the wheels are one or two or three milimeters above the shell, but when I place it on the track, the thing below its nose touches the track ? Do you have any Bachmann FT-A to check this, how low the snowplow shell really is ?

Hi all,

Suddenly I noticed that my Bachmann DCC FT-A loco is scratching the track, its front, snowplow ?, is directly touching the rails. Sometimes the light is on and sometimes it's not. It's almost new, a couple of months in use. The wheel trucks are too fitted in or the plastic front is too low making contact with the rails ! What can I do ? How can I fix this problem ? Hasn't anyone noticed that ?

I want to use this Bachmann E-Z Track 9 Inch Power Terminal with Insulated Gap Nickel Silver HO Scale Item # BAC44597 as Power Terminal only to cover the wire. How does this work ? Somebody told me something about two connectors underneath, so how is it used for Power Terminal, I don't want to screw anything up ?

Hmmm, thanks, guys, I just saw some used Marklin coaches in good condition on Ebay, but adding up the DC wheel cost, it ain't a bargain anymore. Oh, and about my other post TGV from Bachmann, nobody ?

Guys, is this old Bachmann HO TGV train set any good ? A regular price, quality ? Anybody has it ? How does it look and run, when was it officially released ? 

Guys, can I run C-track Marklin (3-rail) coaches and rolling stock on my DCC/DC EZ track without any electrical problems, I mean just wagons, not locos ? Or can I make some easy modifications ?

Guys, what kind of basic decoder fits this locomotive ? Do you think it's a 9 pin quick plug and play decoder that's needed ? What options do I have ? Can a nonexpert like me just plug it in, no messing with it ? Thanks.