walthers will hold the Bachmann 2-6-6-2 and the atlas 2-8-8-2.  The atlas turntable won't. 

Edward
I am not familiar with Bachmann switches, so forgive this rather dumb question.  How would you be able to tell the wiring if it was on top of the layout?  The answer to your question lies in the answer to mine.  If you know where each wire goes if on top of the layout, then mark it with a shapie of different colors.  Once underneath, you should know which wire to put where. 

I do agree tho, that having all wires with the same color does make wiring that much harder.

Dear Bach-man

Just read your comments concerning the warranty program that was/is in place concerning locomotives.  You seem to suggest that Bachmann’s decision to replace a locomotive I bought at a garage sale was, some how my fault and that I was, somehow, taking advantage of Bachmann. 

When I sent in the locomotive, I explained how I purchased it. What was wrong with it, and ask if Bachmann could/would repair it.  I also stated that if Bachmann didn’t want to repair it, please sent it back along with the money, minus shipping cost.

Your company elected to replace it.  Now keep in mind that I sent in a 2-8-0 and received in its place an 0-6-0 with an explanation that what I actually sent in was a 0-6-0.  Up until that time, I didn’t own an 0-6-0, so not sure how I could have sent one in (and I do know the difference).  I wrote Bachmann and explain this, but since I wanted an 0-6-0 for my fleet, I was agreeable to this exchange.  I heard nothing from Bachmann, so I assumed this was also agreeable with the company.

I didn’t take advantage of anyone, and was completely up front as to acquisition of the locomotive.  All Bachmann would have needed to say was no to the repair or replacement.  Bachmann chose not to.  How could I or anyone else take advantage of a corporate decision. 

Rest assured I won’t do that again.

Respectfully
Dick McPherson

Judging from what I just read, it seems to me like the locomotive is covered.  Seems pretty plan to me.

I know from experence that that is true.  I sent in a locomotive I picked up in a garage sale that must have been 20 years old.  Had problems keeping the pilot wheels on, Bachmann replaced it with a brand new unit.  Good enough for me.

Mike
I agree with many of your points.  Bachmann and Atlas both host forms that give us modelers a chance to air our concerns.  I do believe that Bachmann does take into account most of our concerns.  If expressed in a polite and courteous manor it will be received in a more positive way.  Given the limited number of buyers for model railroad products, and the cost of operations, designing, manufacturing, marketing, etc., I believe all manufactures work very hard to produce quality products.  Given the size of N scale products, I for one, am amazed that the things run at all.  This is especially true of the steam locomotive like the Challenger and Big Boy.  Given all of this, it is inevitable that once in a while part of a production run will go bad, i.e. Atherns Challenger,  but they stepped up to the plate and tried to make it right.  While I would like to see a more standard configuration of knuckle couplers, I can’t really complain to much.
Just my thoughts on this topic.

Regards
Dick

GN NP and CBQ all had employee housing as well and hotels for train crews that were laid up at then end of their away leg of the run.

Kyle

Just went the Atlasrr form and reviewed your tank storage pics.  First off, the project itself is fantastic.  A great solution to a great idea.  Second, the pics are just fine, nice and sharp, clear and good distance. Porject score A++

Regards
Dick

Hi Form
I’d like to chime in here.  Here is my story regarding Bachmann’s warranty program.  I tried to convert the 4-8-4 Northern to DCC.  In the process I managed to melt the plastic parts on the motor to the point it wouldn’t run (soldering iron to hot).  Scratch one Northern.  In the mean time I bought a Bachmann 2-8-0 from “the auction site”, knowing it had problems (seller very honest about that), but figured I’d get it to work.  Well came close but just couldn’t keep the motor from popping loose.  Figured I had nothing to loose so boxed them both up along with the required fee and a letter explaining my problem and shipped them to Bachmann’s repair department.  I can hear the laughter still, as then unpacked the Northern in “kit form” . 

Within two or three weeks I received a brand new Northern and a 0-6-0 instead of the 2-8-0 I’d sent in.  Contacted their representative via e-mail and explained the mix-up.  I told them since I didn’t have an -0-6-0 and had several 2-8-0, I’d like to keep the 0-6-0 if they didn’t care, and they didn’t.  Now that kind of customer service is had to find anywhere except for Craftsman tools. 

About 2/3 of my locomotive fleet is Bachmann and I have not had any problems (outside of those I have caused) and there price is great for my budget.  Maybe the detail isn’t as good as some of the others, but I buy for the pleasure of running them on my layout.  At a distance you really can’t notice the lack of detail anyway. 

I am a Bachmann customer for life. 

Regards
Dick

jowj69

I have the same system as you, and F10 will turn the lights on or off.  Try it and see if you like it.  Of course you have to have the lights wired to the DCC decoder I know, I didn't the first time.

Regards
Dick

Hunt

Thanks for the link to Dynamis, that unit does seem to fill the void between the original Bachmann DCC controler and the other brands that have more function.  I have the Bachmann DCC controler and would love to see the price on the Dynamis unit when it becomes available.  Like jowj69, I too am on disability and I can understand is disappointment with costs.  Just maybe Bachmann has found the way to help us out.  Again thanks for the link

Regards
Dick

Thats really hard to say.

I sent in the same locomotive that was in peices because of a DCC conversion that didn't work well.  Had a brand new 4-8-4 back within two weeks.  Had the same kind of service on a 2-8-0 and again it was two weeks, which I fell is great.

I've heard of others here that have had to wait 2 or 3 months.  So far my luck with Bachmann products and service has been first rste.

Since I already have two 4-8-4's and hadn't given any though to getting a third until I read you post,  For one of these I could find room in my stable to house it. 

I own two of them from Bachmann.  For the most part, they will out pull any of my other 22 steam locomotives, with or without traction tires.

Like any new locomotive, you must take the time to properly break it in.  That is a must if you want it to run well.

Mine are converted to DCC and they have very good low speed movement, as well as the mid and high ends. 

If I didn't have a couple now, I would concider getting another to be sure.

Hi Trekkie

I have converted 8 or 9 locomotives, all steam, from the 2-8-8-2, 2-6-6-2, 2-6-2, 4-6-4 etc. and the hardest is the 4-8-4 Northern.

I've just finished converting one of two J class 4-8-4's.  There is no room under the boiler cover for a board unless you mill of an awful lot of weight.  The best method I have found is to place the decoder, ( I used the DZ143) in the cab and cut a channel between the two frame halves.  Make sure you tape the motor off to prevent shavings from getting into the motor and causing a short.  This allows the wires to lay flat and not cause the boiler cover to ride high or scrape off the insulation.  Also cut a grove from the top of the frame to the opening for the motor.  Again this allows the Orange/Gray wires to lay flat without getting in the way of the cover or having the insulation scored.  Getting the brass contacts out of there is a real struggle.  I opened the halves as much as possible and pulled them out.  This way I could isolate the motor and not have to worry about accidental contacts and shorting out the decoder.  Also I used the liquid electrical tape to coat the light compartment on the nose to prevent frame contact and again a short.  I also used this to cover the contact points on the motor itself.  Soldering the red/black wires to the frame takes some work, as it is very hard to get the frame hot enough to just solder the wire.  I used the holes left over when I pulled out the original brass contacts and liquid solder.  I Had to let it set over night to cure after I ran tests for programmability, direction and speed control, and lighting.

Hope this helps a little, good luck on your conversion

Class J

I agree with Ben.  I have two of the new ones and they required a heck of a lot of break in and some extra lub during the break in.  I've converted one to DCC and it runs like a top.  I agree with you on the pulling power, it pulls more than anything else.  I too have a 2-8-8-2 and several 2-8-2, 2-8-4, and this monster out pulls them all.