Problem solved. Found a couple of problem areas.

First, I found the axles were not making good contact with the metal side piece. Cleaned that off and scraped some paint away form the side piece. Next, the brass contact piece was not making good contact with the metal side piece. Again, scraped some paint away on the side piece. Much better.

Next, I soldered wires between the metal contacts to the small pcb board that is under the truck, and wires to the decoder. This eliminated the brass contacts merely brushing on the pcb board, and created a better connection from the trucks/wheels to the decoder.  Would be a good suggestion for future production models, not that I see that happening.

Anyways, she is running great as I write. Thanks for everyone's advice in getting me through this conversion.

Ted

Hey Sid,

I am totally stumped like you. If it was just one truck, it would be bad enough. But both trucks? I did discover that the entire side rail is metal. Thought maybe the brass contact that is sandwiched between is not making contact, but again, both trucks? I am going to take it apart again and make sure the area of the contacts is dry. I did lubricate the gears, so maybe some oil ran into the sandwich point and is not allowing it to make contact. I have metered these trucks every way possible.

I have a call into Bachmann for their repairman to give me a call. Anxious to see whether he has any ideas. Like you say, it is probably something stupid. Will keep  you updated.

Ted

Here is what I have found. The problem is on the geared side of both trucks. To make better contact with the small pcb board for the pick-ups, I soldered a wire from the contact on the trucks to the pcb board. On the non-geared side I get continuity. If the truck is mounted on the chassis, I get continuity on the non-geared sided. On the geared side I get nothing. If I remove the truck and turn it over upside down, I get continuity. That makes no sense, but it is what it is. I double checked the screw that holds the side on is tight.

I hope someone has some thoughts. This is driving me crazy.

Thanks guys.

Ted

Ok guys, need some help before I lose my mind. I installed the front and rear drivelines today. Now I can't get the engine to respond. The shay was running prior to the new gears, but not to good of course on one truck. Now, it will respond momentarily every so often for just a second. I have removed the driveline on the front truck and reinstalled, nothing new. I have checked the continuity between the wheels, and the pick-ups. Continuity is there on the non-geared wheels, but not steady on the geared side wheels.  Even tried applying power to the power board on the chassis, still nothing. I thought this would be so easy, but as I sit here pulling my hair out, I have different thoughts.

Hope someone can offer me some advice.

Thanks.

Ted

Beautiful Shay. Nice job with the weathering. Still haven't figured out what to do with mine. It came unlettered. First to get it running then start having fun with the body.

Thanks for all your help. It really brought me out of the woods.

Ted

Went ahead and ordered the driveline assemblies. Guess will take a chance with the plastic gears. Almost ordered two sets but will see how these last. Curious, the WoundedBear mentioned that the gears have been upgraded. Upgraded to what, better quality plastic? Also where did you have to go to find these, since they are not mentioned with the other Shay parts?

Anxious to get this loco moving again. Thanks to you guys for your help. You made my day!!!! and saved it too!!!
.
Ted

Thanks for everyone's reply. That would work for me. One question. The web site states that the gears are plastic. Would I be better to get some metal gears from NWSL, or stick with plastic? Probably wouldn't run the engine all that much, so maybe the plastic would suffice.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

Ted

Greetings Guys,

I have a 3 Truck Shay that I just yesterday added a sound decoder. It runs fine on level ground, for the most part. But I find it is a problem pulling any degree of grade. So in checking the trucks I see where the front and rear trucks are not turning , or better yet free wheeling, not turned by the gears. I am aware of the problems that Bachmann had with the gears in the trucks. I did replace the middle truck a year or so ago because of a broken gear.

Now,  I do not see either truck listed on the Bachmann web site. I just sent them an email to confirm my fears. So, does anyone have any idea where I might look to solve my problem? The part numbers that I need are H81907 and H81910.

Hope someone can help. It sounds so good with the added sound. I hate to just retire it to a display piece.

Thanks for any help.

Ted

Don,

Thanks for the reply. I am curious as to your thoughts on drilling out the light pipe, vs drilling out the back? That was my original idea, but I figured it might be a real chore. I guess the only benefit of drilling out the pipe, would be that all the wires would be hidden. And by drilling out the back, I would retain the lens up front, which may not be important.

I do need to measure the opening to see what size I need. I agree going with the yellow-white. Right now it is a yellowish tint.

Hopefully I will find a suitable LED Sunday at a local train show.

Thanks for your advise.

Ted

Jonathan,

Just had a thought after looking at your 2-8-0 installation, which by the way, you did a great job.

Why not just leave the light pipe intact, and drill out the back of the light assembly. Then run the wires out the back, down into the boiler shell, much like you did. They would hardly show, and wouldn't look bad otherwise. That way I should be able to keep the lens intact in the front.

That sound like a game plan. What think?

Ted

Hey guys,

A lot of good information being passed around on this thread. It is also an educational experience for me.

Here are my thoughts and concerns:

I do agree that adding an LED out in the open in the boiler unit might be a mistake, with a lot of light bouncing around inside. The only correct way is to mount it in the headlight assembly. My concern is eliminating the light pipe from the light housing. I am assuming that it is a square piece of plastic inserted and glued into the housing. The light from the LED travels up the pipe, and is diffused at a right angle through the lens.

The pictures of the 2-8-0 headlight assembly do not match what I have. That assembly is out in the open, and much easier to work with. In my situation, the light pipe is what fits through the top of the boiler shell, and lines up with the LED inside. My biggest concern is how to remove the light pipe, without damaging the headlight assembly. It would have to be drilled out, as I am sure it is glued in. It would be like working on a swiss watch. Small to minute in size. Removing the light pipe seems to be the biggest hurdle right now.


Then comes the issue of finding an LED that small. I am going to a train show this Sunday, so will seek out the LED guy to see what he has.

Now, as for the resistor, do I have to do anything with it, since it is most likely on the PCB in the tender? My guess is to simply connect it to the two wires coming from the decoder, through the engine.

Still pondering this delicate operation.

Hey guys,

I was able to remove the headlight assembly without any problems. Now, in measuring the voltage for the LED, I measured 1.93vdc. Isn't that a little low for a standard LED, or should I be able to find one to match that voltage?

What I am thinking is to drill out the headlight lens, insert a LED into the assembly, and run the wires down to the current PCB on the frame. Does that sound like a possible fix? Or should I cut the light tunnel off and hope that a brighter LED will do the trick?

Ted

Rich,

Yes it best to disconnect the tender. Yours, as I see in the picture, has the standard drawbar, the K4 has the wishbone type drawbar. I would prefer your type.

I do use the foam cradle as you suggested. To many disconnects could lead to a damaged wire. "Carefully" is the word when plugging and unplugging.

Ted

Hey Rod,

Got the shell off. Easy when you know how. I did remove the two screws for that hold the connectors in place, in order to remove the screw holding the shell.

The LED is a small one mounted to a circuit board, so it appears that there is no way to bend it upward like you mentioned. I am assuming that the LED fits close against the plastic light tunnel? I did power up the unit and the LED seems to be very bright, but by the time the light makes it's way up the tunnel, then the 90 degree turn, much of the brilliance is lost. So, I am thinking of a couple of options. One would be to leave well enough alone, and live with what I have. The other option would be to replace the current LED,  and cut the light tunnel away inside the shell as you said. However, I would want to see if a different LED would be any brighter. If it isn't brighter, would removing part of the light tunnel, pointing the LED upward to the tunnel,  make that much difference?

Stuff to ponder. Happy Easter.

Ted

Rich,

Looking at the engine, and your pictures, there is a big difference between the two. I did find a screw under the rear truck that appears to hold on the shell, but after unloosening it, I see no movement from the body. Also I do not see any screws in the front that indicate it would hold the front part on. Looking at the exploded view doesn't lend me any help. I wonder if it is possible that the boiler shell simply snaps off?

So Rod, if you are reading this post, can you tell me how to remove the boiler shell?

Thanks so much.

Ted