Hi there,

That's exactly what I was inferring.

It's good, basic, train set track. No argument. 

It has its market for around the Christmas tree, or for the temporary carpet layout, but once you update to a permanent pike, you usually move up to a more prototypical sectional track or flexible track.

I am not trying to denigrate something that is a very useful product - particularly on a forum that manufactures / sells the stuff.

So I re-ask my original question:

What is so special about it? 



If you want more prototypical On30 track, just move to one of the other specialist manufacturers....



Thank you.

Hi all,

I apologise for my ignorance, but what is so special about EZ track?

I always assumed that it was basic 'train set' quality, and was relegated back to the box when one moved onto more prototypical standards - especially in On30...

Hey, ebtnut

Many thanks for sharing that great little video.


Six things I have learned from it:

1)  Women work just as hard as men on the line.

2)  Single-bladed turnouts work very well.

3)  A head shunt means "Get off and Push".

4)  Coal tippling is a manual chore.

5)  A crowbar is a multifunction device.

6)  Sleepers (ties) do not have to be rectangular in section.



No wonder the Taiwanese build such great scale model locomotives and rolling stock!


Well done

I heard that, rdftrain!!

Are you listening too, Bach-Man? 

I second that!

I love Shays, but the existing T-boiler is (in my opinion) a spindly-looking excuse for some of the beefier Shays that so dominated the private logging and mining lines.

Let's have some bulk and strength as our motive power!


Shays Rock!

Hi Jeff,

I believe you are right...

Lasse,

As I recall, the rear bogie frame is in two die-cast parts, which are insulated from each other. The respective wheels collect the current from the rails, and feed it to the left and right hand insulated sections. It is these sections that are connected to the PCB via the tiny wires, which are screwed to the frame halves.


Hope this helps.

Hello Lasse,

The rear bogie wheel current pick up is fed through two tiny (enamelled or lacquered) wires, which look as if they are uncoated. I assume this is to make them extra-flexible as well as insulated.

You will have to remove the body from the frame, which isn't difficult.

If you have a Multimeter, check the continuity between the wheels and the points where the two wires enter the main PCB. I had a bit of a problem there, and had to re-solder one of the wires at this point.

As a postscriptum, I eventually removed the rear bogie and converted the Forney into a 2-4-0 "Victoria" with a small tender. This was due to the more than excessive rear end swing, which kept sweeping following wagons off the track.

Now, after the aforementioned conversion to a 2-4-0, my ex-Forney has never ran or looked better....

(And she c-r-a-w-l-s through the turnouts beautifully...)

Thanks, Bach-man!

All the best to you and all your little elves!

Hi all,

I am looking at purchasing one of these nifty locos for my tramway.

My question is - will it run on analogue 12v DC, like the Porters, Forney, Gas Mech, et al?
 

Many thanks.

Hi Tim,

I agree with what Dwayne and Chris said, and I reckon that you should purchase yourself a Kadee HO (also suits On30) coupler height gauge. This is the ONLY way to ensure your Kadee and Kadee-clone couplers are not suffering from the dreaded 'droop'.

A little hint though - paint the bloody thing a fluorescent orange, yellow, or green! This makes it a lot easier to find, especially if you don't have it permanently mounted on a test track...

I would be looking at frog and guide-rail clearances on the crossing.

If you own an NMRA standards gauge, this has flange-way and rail gauge settings built into it, and will quickly detect where the 'jam' is.

Failing that, you can also run a coffee stirrer stick, or even your thumbnail, through the crossing, and you should be able to pick up where the problem is.

From your description, the fault is causing mechanical, as well as electrical problems, so it shouldn't be too difficult to spot.

Hope this helps.   

Hi Slack,

It's entirely a matter of personal preference, really.

I have used a lump of real coal that I have pulverized with a hammer, then screened to get chunks that "look right" for the scale I am modelling.

I have also used Woodlands Scenics "Mine Run Coal" which is quite finely textured and is probably designed to be used with HO models, but to my eye it looks OK, even in an On30 tender.

Just try a few different substances. Even crushed rock is fine, as long as it is painted semi-gloss black...

I love my Forney!

Especially now that she has been converted to a 2-4-0 with short tender...

Great videos!

Love dem Garratts!!!


Thanks for posting.

I don't think anyone is listening, Darryl....