The 81196 Shay is the second variation of the first verson 36 ton Shay released by Bachmann. It is not DCC ready.  The 38 ton Shay, the second version is DCC ready.

I run battery power radio control so can't comment on installation of a decoder in the 81196.  It would seem that folks instal decoders in all manner of locomotives so the Pardee & Curtain should not be a problem.

Possibly someone that has installed a decoder in the 81196 will be able to give you detailed information.


"One of the Enthusiastic Children"

JD

TJ
Don't know of any exploded diagrams except those in the Owner's Manual.

Just tilt the bunker back, as it explains in the Owner's Manual.  You have to kinda wiggle it around to get the two rear tabs free.  I have two of these locomotives and haven't experienced any problem removing the bunker.

JD

"One of the Enthusiastic Children"

Peter,
Contact Sam at Kadee and he'll be able to help you.  E-mail is mail@kadee.com or 541-826-3883.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

The Road Pilot is item No. 88016.

It along with other parts for the K-27 is listed in the Bachmann catalog. Guess no one thought to look there.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

rye,
I assume you are making reference to removing the fuel/coal bunker from either a 36 ton or 38 ton Shay.

The bunker is held in place by one Phillips head screw and two tabs.




Remove the water fill hatch. It is just pushed in place in the fill hatch opening.  The picture shows the hatch removed; that is the opening just to the rearof the fuel bunker. There is a "well" under the hatch that has the attaching Phillips head screw.  Remove the screw.

Now lift up slightly on the back of the bunker.  There are two tabs, one on each water leg that attach the front of the bunker to the floor. Be careful when lifting the bunker so that the tabs are not broken.  By tipping the bunker forward the tab will release and the bunker is removed.



This is the bunker removed.  Note to the right of the picture, on the water legs are the tabs that attach the bunker to the floor.

This should get you inside to the circuit board and gain access to install your sound system.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

rye,
I understand the part of your posting about needing a Pony truck frame. The second part of your request, I'm not real sure what you are asking for.

Could this be the part?





This is bottom motor block cover for a battery power/RC Big Hauler.  All the screw holes line up except the one at the very rear.

If this is what you are looking for you can have it no charge.  I may be contacted at jlsclw@aol.com  and I'd need your mailing address to send it by USPS.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"


JD

Paul,
I have the smoke box door latch and pin.  It's off one of the old RC Big Haulers.  The latch and pin appears to be the same on all Big Haulers.

Might save you some time getting this latch and pin rather than dealing with Bachmann Service for such a small item.

If interested just send me your mailing address and I'll put the latch and pin in the mail.  No charge

My e-mail is jlsclw@aol.com 

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

That piece serves no purpose for the K-27.

It's the tow bar that goes between the little powered hand car and the trailer it pulls.  Why Bachmann packs it with every locomotive is unknown. Almost seems that those accessory packs were made up years ago and for some reason Bachmann threw one of the tow bars in with all the other items.

This question keeps coming up and someone here on the board will jump in with the answer.  Heaven only knows how many times the tow bar question has come up.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"


JD

Jerry,
Thank you for taking the time to report back.  Feedback is always appreciated.

Not only does the question/answer solve your situation; it could help others that may have a similar experience.

Now you can move on to bigger things.  Like building your railroad empire.
Have fun!

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

Just to add to what Ted has described.

The screws you want to remove are those that are along the very edge of the chassis, next to the car body sides.  They are located close to the needle beams.

Any screws that are further in on the chassis are those that secure the seat platform to the chassis.  Don't remove these screws.

One each end of the car are two tabs that are part of the car body end walls.  These tabs snap into place in the chassis.  Press in on these tabs to release the chassis from the car body.

With the screws removed and the end wall tabs released the body can be lifted off the chassis.  On the newer track powered lighting there will be two wires that feed power to the overhead lights.

You should be able to access the seats enough to add passengers without disconnecting these wires.  If not, then disconnect the wires.

Put the passengers in place, put car body back on chassis, snap the end wall tabs into the chassis and replace the screws you removed.

Oh, and good luck getting the wash room back in place while trying to place the body back on the chassis.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

Jerry,
Did you find the missing bushing?

If not, I have one that you can have.  It would be easy to install a bushing on the center axle.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

Jerry,
Anything is possible. The bushing could have been left off during assembly.

However, more than likely the missing bushing is on the axle and inside the motor block.  The bushings have shoulders on them that keep them in place in the motor block.  It's easy for one of these bushings to slide on the axle and end up inside the case.



This is a picture of the brass axle bushing. In this case it is a bushing on a rear driver of a 10-Wheeler.  The center axle of your locomotive will have these bushings.  You can see the outer shoulder of the bushing riding against the motor case.  



This is a picture from George Schreyer's web site.  Here you can see the center driver's brass bushings.  Your 10-Wheeler should have the same set-up.  This is a version 5 drive train so it should be the same as your locomotive. 

Remove the bottom motor block cover.  Chances are you'll find your missing bushing on the axle.  Place it back on the motor block, Install the cover, making sure all bushings stay in place and you should be back in business.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

The stack on the Climax in the video is not a ballon stack.



This is a ballon or onion stack on a Heisler.  It's properly known as a Ruston stack.

A few posts above is a picture of a Climax with a Lima Diamond stack.

Check the Bachmann parts list. There may be a ballon stack offered.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"


JD

Bruce

You can contact Stan Cedarleaf by e-mail.  His e-mail is scedarleaf@aol.com

Contact Stan, tell him what you are looking for and he can give you a cost estimate.

Stan does excellent work. He is very responsive and gets the job out to you in very short order.

Just don't get the idea that you can get quality decal sets for a buck two-ninety-eight.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbLCm9VTJak

Here's a short video of the Indy.  It doesn't have any problem handling a short consist.  In this video it is pulling 1:22.5 equipment.  I also use it to pull mostly 1:20.3 scratch built equipment.

The cab is a Banta kit.  The Indy had the front pilot spring modifed and weight added. The pilot modification and slight amount of weight added gave the little locomotive enough pulling power to handle three to four car consists.

I like its small size and regularly run it with the much larger 1:20.3 locomotives.

One of the "Enthusiastc Children"


JD