As I was working on my layout I began contemplating where to locate my train museum.  The museum will hold the steam locomotives and some old diesels (all analog).  My track is all DCC and I thought about all the "Dummy locomotives" that I have.   Since I can run several DCC loco's together, in the middle, or at the end of the train or trains.  I thought about placing dummy diesels in the museum but that will take up too much space.   I did think about having decorative locomotives (dummies) siting around the layout on some siding, but I can use the DCC locomotives to do that too.  Therefore, I'm wondering is there a need to have "dummy locomotives" anymore.

Why would anyone want or need to keep the dummy locomotives if the DCC layout can handle all locomotive variations?

Oh my Bejesus!
I can't believe one would cut up, cut down, cut crossways, sideways a good EZ track.  Cutting track is for the plain non-roadbed track, like Atlas and pre-EZ Bachmann track (which frankly was Atlas track restamped for Bachmann).    I'm not touting that EZ track is the best, but it's the greatest track for maintaining its connections, if one track section moves the entire section or length of track will move.  Let's face it, the EZ track roadbed is a bit thick, but if you change your roadbed as often as I have done and planning to do and expect to continue making track layout changes, the EZ track is the easiest to do that with. 

QuoteSome type of roadbed/shims would be needed to bring them up to the same height as EZ-Track.

I agree totally on using shims to adjust that non-roadbed track to meet up with EZ track.  Most of the connections are actually short sections of track.  My longest shimmed connection so far, is approx. 2 inches.  The EZ track does have that short of a connection but to keep the EZ track connector (interlock) from inferring, the span of the splice of track needs to be at least three-quarters of an inch long.  Having to remove that interlock would void the ability to use that section of track elsewhere when my brain tells me, to reconstruct my layout.   

The Fleischmann 3-way track (conversed in another thread) I will be using 4 sections of shimmed non-roadbed track with 3 sections very close together in order for each to meet up with the EZ track.   Once I get that perfected, I'll share an image of the finished product.  And ,as stated earlier, my preference is to modify the pieces to fit my track plan.

Track cleaning.  This question will always be a question asked on this forum.  But since you asked a specific question, I'll provide my thoughts.

Quote"Do I need to apply the E-Z Lube cleaner solution to the pad BEFORE running the tanker car?  Or do I just run the tanker cleaning car right out of the box?"

In my opinion, you can do either.  Adding cleaning fluid will work but it will be based on the type of cleaning pad.  Some pads the fluid will flow fairly quickly to the track, other pads it may take some time for the fluid to flow through the pad and onto the track. 
In my case, I do both.  That is, I have two track cleaning cars.  One I use to dryclean the track and the other to wet clean the track.  Since I have a track cleaning train, I run the wetcleaning car first, and in between with two flat cars and the MOW caboose and lastly the dry cleaning tank car.  I use the cars in between to give the cleaning fluid time to lift the crud from the track before the dry cleaning pads move over the track and dry the track.  I'll be working on a ballast vehicle (converting it from DC to DCC) to replace the two flat cars.  My desire would use the ballast vehicle to drive the tracking cleaning unit instead of having to use one of the diesel locomotives.

Kinda got of the subject, sorry, but as you can see from my opinion doing either will support cleaning of the track.  If the track is really filthy, then wet cleaning should be considered, since dry cleaning the car may be to light to really remove harden crud.  The question I can't answer is how fast or slow should the train cleaning cars move on the track.  If you go slow maybe one of two passes may work.  Moving cleaning cars fast then maybe four or five passes to get the same cleanliness.  And yes, that isn't a good answer.    Hopefully some of this info may help.

QuoteHave you ever super detailed a brass steam locomotive by soldering on a minute detail like a Whistle?

One thing I learned is to solder the hand railings of the locomotive instead of gluing the railings.  When I get the right soldering iron/pencil, I'm going to perform that task on all my locomotives.  Currently they all are just hanging by the wire that's attached to the shell.  The verticals leaning to and fro.   I tried glue and that just ruined the looks of some of the stanchions. 
Plug and play sounds like me, when it comes to laying/placing track...

Here's a thought.   Has anyone looked into 3-D printing of the gear in question.   If it's a plastic gear piece, it may be fairly easy to get a 3-D savvy person to create that gear from a 3-D printer.  If it's a metal gear, metal 3-D printing is still very expensive, therefore, I second the motion to just buy a new one.

Just my two cents....

Its great that Bachmann is listening, keeping tabs on this forum.   I'd prefer they not go off on a tangent with other entities like Disney, Marvel, DC Comics, etc.  But I would like to see cars like General Electric, US Steel, US Dept of Energy, US Army, Navy, Air Force and Marines to name a few.  The big industrial companies use to have their own train cars at one time, has that gone away as of now?

I'd also like Bachmann to add more EZ track variety.  And yes, I have all of the Bachmann EZ track models with the exception of the concrete tie track.

I would love Bachmann more if they would produce the double crossover in the EZ track format.  But alas, it may not happen in my lifetime.  So, what did I do to alleviate this issue..., Checkout the image below.
 

The caption may be a little blurry so I'll recap here: 
These are two crossovers one by unknown and the familiar ones (3) by Bachmann EZ track 44575 and 44576.  Something to note, the Bachmann track transfers direction on a single track.  It allows space for at least one car or locomotive that the train can travel around.  The other manufacturers double crossover there is no space for a car to allow the train to travel around. 

Disadvantage of Bachmann is that it takes up more track space. Approx. 41 inches of track as compared to the approx. 19 inches of track to complete a double crossover.  The disadvantage of the other is stated above.
The Bachmann double crossover only works if there is 1 left and 1 right crossover.  The preference to which left or right is first is up to you.  Just note that 2 lefts or two right (not shown) crossovers will only get you a single crossover (see middle EZ track).

One thing I will mention is that it makes it easy to relocate train cars on a train.  Say a consist engine is not needed, it can be pulled or on its own move into that short siding and the head engine can then back cars around that engine and reconnect to the remaining cars behind that sided engine.   It's cool operations in my book.

I'm not into painting, and frankly, I like the grey ballast.  I believe the reason most don't like the ballast is due to it's thickness.  Cover up some of that thickness and it becomes a lot more pleasing to the eye...in my opinion.  Since I am forever changing my layout, painting the ballast for a summer scene, then changing it again for a winter scene one would be constantly repainting the ballast over and over.  Point being made here, for me, is too much paint and glue will ruin the entire track over time. 

Update: I purchased the Fleischmann 3-way track (model: Profi-Gleis 6157), I'll let everyone know how it works out with the E-Z track.  I believe I can mate the two without breaking off the connector.  I hope I'm correct in this assessment.  This 3-way is only 9 inches, where my EZ turnouts whether no 4 or no 6 take up 27 inches.  This will be a godsend if I can get it to work.

My layout will not be anywhere near as good as Sheldon's work, plus I'd be more than embarrassed to show my haphazard work at this point in time. 

This is good news.  So now, when will Bachmann update the EZ command to recognize multi numbered locos instead of just the one number loco ID?

By the way, not interested in "Bachmann 36505 Dynamis E-Z Digital Command" system.  I like dials, not push buttons. 

I am definitely going to have to a better job at doing google searches.  Didn't even dawn on me to do an image search. 

Thanks

Embarrassing

Update:

Alast, without a workshop bench (from another topic), I have procured the Bachmann GP30 EMD with DCC on board.  Such a pretty engine.  I'll keep the Boston & Maine GP7 that has DCC and Sound.  As for the Santa Fe  FT-a, ...well, it'll go to my train museum only to run on special occasions.

Thanks for informing me of the complications of shell swapping.  I grew up thinking that all the chassis's of model locomotives were the same underneath, and all one needed to do is change the shell to modernize ones fleet.  I also thought it was only the steam locos that had to be replaced in their entirety in order to expand ones fleet.

I can now state I'm more knowledgeable on the subject of shell swapping.... Not an expert, but a more knowledgeable novice.

In another discussion (old), I found that there are two types of transfer tables.  The one that I am familiar with and have purchased is the Bachmann DCC round table (46298).  Then the discussion went to a transfer table.  After searching god old "google" I found a transfer table.

I kinda like this transfer table....couldn't find similar Bachmann version.  Don't think Bachmann makes'em.   Below are the images of the transfer table and the turntable.   Question: Is there such a thing (apparatus) in real life of this transfer table or is the transfer table only in HO modeling ?  I haven't been successful in finding actual images of a real transfer table, like what is depicted in the image below.
If this transfer table is actual, what's its main purpose, since the roundtable is for basically turning the locomotive back to a forward pointing position.

What I really like is it looks to take up less space than the roundtable.

If you want to get a good laugh, check this out....

Hopefully, I'm not infringing on someone's copyright image.   But it's hilarious to say the least.

Sorry I don't log in on this forum as often as others do, but when I do, ...I must say "wow", that
the responses are incredible.  Anyway, I'm kinda a neat freak, after working 40 years in my work environment kinda makes one think like work.  "A clean work bench is a safe workbench".
The guy in Baton Rouge with his bench working in another area, would be great for me, but alas, I don't have the work space for that.  As for having placing or performing work on the kitchen table, my wife would go nuclear/postal/you name it on me.  Let alone the fact that DCC decoders with sound make noise ...but in the kitchen?

I kinda like the idea of having only a few engines with sound, since all of my layout will be in the same room.  Like it was stated "...having to deal with a room full of diesels idling, including those on the other end of the railroad, i.e., across the 16 x 20 ft room (layout) that is supposed to be a hundred miles away" makes sense to me.  Let alone the added cost of the high price sound decoders.  I wonder why Bachmann doesn't sell cheaper versions of the sound decoders.

Anyway, after careful consideration of all the responses, I committed to one day convert a few of my old locos with maybe a DCC simple decoder.  I also will do something a little different in that, my workbench will be part of the train layout, where one leg will enter/exit the workbench area. That area can also be my track programming area.  Just remember too much noise will wake a sleeping beauty.

This brings up another topic, that I'll address in the general discussion area. 

Hummm,
In a different post I second your coupler fix, but I use I use the red Kadee (208) instead of the grey (209).     
Should I rethink use of the red over the grey?  My red ones, seem to work fine, but if the grey ones work better, I'm all for it.  What's your experience with the red ones, if any.