Quote from: Jerrys HO on March 02, 2015, 08:20:46 PM

Quote from: kdgrant6 on March 02, 2015, 08:08:50 PM
Actually I have ran more than that on my layout, others say you can not but I have 
That's good to know.  How many?  How many with sound?  What would you say is the limit?

How many I have had up to 6 loco's maybe seven at one time running. 3 with sound.
What is the limit? 2 or 3 at best is my limit as it get's hard to control more than two at a time and my layout is not that small. Now there is another myth why I don't want to push it to the max, could it harm the decoder? could it harm the power station? how many licks to the center of a tootsie roll? only testing it will reveal the answer and I'll leave that to JBrocks video king who cut's up $150.00 plus loco's 

. . . and JBrock rises to the summons . . .

Actually I have ran more than that on my layout, others say you can not but I have 

That's good to know.  How many?  How many with sound?  What would you say is the limit?

Well, I found out today that a Bachmann EZ DCC Controller will run at least 3 DCC locos at once, two of them with sound.

Thanks.  I'll check this out soon.

The lid of a Kadee #5 draft gear box may very well do the trick.  It may or may not need some modification.  Do you have any around to use to take a look see?

I've heard about them, but don't have one here.

By the way, I'm sure there are extenuating circumstances, but what is your idea of the best height for bench work?

It's not on this topic, but at this point since it was brought up a couple of posts ago, i thought I'd ask--since there are no dumb questions, only those with faltering perspicacity.

I can certainly understand the attraction of being as self-sufficient as possible. 

The car with the missing coupler is a Walther's, not a Bachmann.

After such a short time in this hobby, I am amazed at the passion at play.  And you're right: there are plenty of different places for satisfaction in this hobby.  My list of what I need to learn is growing.

Thanks for your help.

Wow!

This discussion really took off.

Enjoyed the Len and Jim show.  Fun to read.

Thanks, Jerry, for your help.  Bachmann's tech/repair department told me about the programming track idea.  This advice was backed up by a couple of people on the Message Board.  But what you said makes sense and conforms to my limited experience changing the address to one DCC loco.  The key is clearing the track of other locos.

Since I have the extra terminal and track on an adjoining table, I probably will just use it tomorrow to program the new one.

No, I don't have Dynamis, only the EZ Command.

New at this, I received the Bachmann DCC Echo Valley set.  I connected the EZ Track, put the little locomotive on the track, and ran it in the default 3 position on the EZ Command.

That was its break in.

I bought another loco, DCC with no sound.  I broke it in by putting it on the track by itself and running it in its 3 position.  Then I put both locos on the track and ran them together (the Echo ran faster). Then I took the Echo off and programmed the other loco for the 2 position.  That has worked fine.

On Monday, I have a Bachmann GP7 DCC w/Sound coming .  I plan to program it in the 4 position by putting it on a separate piece of powered track.

Is that right?

Then what? How long do I run it on this separate track?  When I put it on the main layout, do I do anything special?  When do I oil it? What oil?  Will 3-In One work?

All mostly dumb questions, I'd hazard a guess, but I would very much appreciate guidance on this.

I'm running DCC. 

I'm going to use the straight terminal rerailer that came with my set to power a piece of track for programming locos and turnouts.  Since I was going to buy another terminal rerailer to power my layout, I was wondering if there are any reasons not to use a curved piece instead of a straight.

I don't know how to make the powered rail joiners.  With my lack of experience, I think I'd rather just buy a piece of track.

Thanks for your suggestion.

A curved Terminal Rerailer would be more convenient in my layout.  Are there any reasons to stay away from those instead of a straight piece?  I use 18" radius curves.

Thanks.

Hey, two giants,

I'm new to this, so I know how you feel.  I had a similar problem.  Most of the EZ Track slid into place with no problems.  However, sometimes that was not the case.  I had bought a used turnout.  One of its joiners was kinked so that one rail was slightly higher and cause derailings.  A

Also as I experimented with different layouts, I attached and separated the track pieces quite a lot, and I experimented with inclines, so more than several pieces of track would not join well. 

Sometimes the remedy was merely turning the pieces around, and I would get a smooth fit. 

Other times I did this: I used a Woodland Scenics foam pin and pressed down and sideways on the joiners and was able to fit the offending pieces perfectly.

I went around my track (close to a 100 pieces now) and made sure that every joint was smooth (I just ran my finger along the top).

You can do it.  Just don't force the pieces together.

I checked out your layout plan, Wounded Bear.  VERY impressive.

Where do you plan to park the VW?

Looks great!

But are you really satisfied with those 1x2 legs, even though the bracing looks good. 

Wouldn't 2x4's really make for a sturdier table?  And why aren't you using a 3/4" plywood top?  That would give you a much more solid foundation for the future.  I'm sure that you'd agree that increasing the dimension of the top would supply you with a "higher" degree of quality.

Or am I missing something in this pursuit of the optimal train table?

Well, Whiz, thanks for your input.

I guess you'll be able to put your table to heavier-duty use than I'll put mine to. I'll stick to trains and things on mine and not worry about the multi-faceted capabilities of my supported plywood.

Again, thanks.  I'll put your suggestions to appropriate use.