Wayne;
Thanks for the feedback and info.  I am going with 2003 and am going to try code.070.  Jack had routinely mentioned a product called 'Barge Cement'.  While I have never seen this stuff, from his description, I am going to assume it is a little like contact cement.  Well, like they say; nothing ventured...  I know that contact cement is usually let to dry-both pieces, so I will guess that is the tricky part.  Two stainless bars, similar to steel guitar tone bars with grooves cut into them to match the rail-width @ CV tie strips and set into a jig, should help do the trick.
I have never built a turnout, but then again, I have never ran from a challenge (real or imagined), SO...Onwards and upwards, 'we are the navvies, etc...'

Rich C.

John;
Scaling it down to 87:1, that would be a dandy floor for an exposed shop area...  By the way-What is that god-awful smell with those floors?  After about 15 minutes of that, I would be heading for the door.

On subject:  Athearn passenger trucks are set up Talgo-style.  It is an interesting proposition re-modelling those cars.  I, instead, bought some 6-wheel "really sprung" trucks.  Boy, you should see these puppies-just like in the old days!
I have been toying with the idea of taking some of those Athearn paxngr cars and cutting them down to 60 or 61 scale feet.  Have you done any of that stuff?  The biggest reason is on my (present) design, I have this killer curve (and that is exactly what it is called...) that not only is about an R-24", but it goes from one level to another; hence the reason.   I also have a section of topography called the "Devil's Cut" (now where did I get that name from?)...

Rich C.

J Hanecker;
The "Blocks" are a great idea, and is as old as the hills.  Pratt & Whitney, Hamilton Standard, Sikorsky, Chandler/Evans,
etc.; had those floors throughout their shop areas.  When I first got out of the Air Force and entered the work force in Connecticut and saw those floors for the first time in a "Civilian" setting, I thought they were a really neat way to go; I asked one of the maintenance people why they used it, and he told me that if they dropped an assemblage, particularly an intricate weighty one, chances are it wouldn't get too damaged.  I was also surprised at just how 'long' those blocks were!  As an aside, I was also surprised as to how many motors were in these shops...

Rich C.

Addendum;
Len; thank you for the feedback concerning those Century units.
Rich C.

Roger;
From what I have seen of your work, it is top quality workmanship, and Wayne's ideas MIGHT enhance your layout, but I'd take both layouts on parity any day!
Wayne; the idea of 'tracing' is excellent, and it does work.  The only thing I had always been bothered with is the detail-work on the track itself.  I got around that by sort of reversing what you have; that is, take .040" strips on the ties to be "paved" over, then lay down the finish layer.  Everything is flush. 
I am getting set to start laying track.  A part of the concept here is using "Central Valley" turnouts on the front edge, and .070 rail.  I have a mental image of this track-work, and it appears to look really good.  Have you any feedback on using this product?  The late Jack Parker's layout was an excellent one.  A lot of his products are great, like the tie strips, as well as structure product.

Rich C.

Hi Wayne;
Nope; I made a deal with myself long ago (enlisting in the Air Force) that I would, upon  retirement, stay here, in the lower 48, on good old terra firma, in my 'mansion on the hill', for better or worse.  There are enough checks and balances in our laws to prevent someone from becoming too 'ambitious'...And, like you guys, we have had some real winners, but this is one of the reasons hard liquor was invented...
Back on track now (ha ha, a pun...)
Placement of the music wire is a concern to me, largely because in this hobby  (and elsewhere...) nothing is permanent, and the simpler one makes a project, probably there will be less hassle during any pertinent change.
I am looking at keeping those wires above-board, and just keeping them covered with buildings, scenery, etc.; that is one way.  Another way would be to [keep it below] board-board meaning basic surface.  This would entail bending an "ell" at the turnout end of the wire, and facilitating it's movement via a hole below the turnout; this would also mean that a smaller wire had to be used.
Still another method would be to build a 'platform' below the turnout, installing a slide switch with a hole drilled through the toggle to handle a larger dia. wire.  This would also serve most wiring options, depending upon the capability of the switch.  All of the mechanism could be constructed at the work-bench

Rich C.

Wayne;
You are right about it not being cheap.  NONE of it is; this is why I got solar installed.  Being an electrical contractor (no, I didn't install it-not at age 70!).  Having a large expanse of roof directly facing the south, this is a shoe in.  My bill is down roughly 60% since last winter (and yep; I have electric radiant heat).  PV  works in proportion to how much sun it is exposed to on a given day. 
Electricity that is produced by convention is going to be expensive, not so much for the price of fossil or hydro, but for the personnel it takes to operate and maintain said systems. 
On the subject of hydro; some time ago, I bought two Grandt line 'box-cab switchers'.  These diminutive little beauties are so cool-they are HOn3; and are geared such that their momentum works by gearing.  When they built the Hoover Dam during the Great Depression, they had two of these little critters running to and fro, with carloads of concrete.  That must have been quite a sight-probably more intense to have operated them!

Rich C.

Wayne;
Thanks for the 'enlightenment'.  I had solar installed this past summer-and yes, it does make a big difference. 
I have a couple of Atlas C-420 diesel locomotives I believe 'Canadian National' used them.  If so, could you tell me where I can find the paint scheme.  They look like a cross between an RS-11 and a Baldwin hood.  I like them so much, I will run them with steam...

On turnout finger-flicking ( we have to be real careful saying that-being completely sober would be helpful...) I have seen several variations on the theme of mechanical controlling of turnouts.  Figured I'd try it.  Had some music wire (I think 5th or 6th guitar strings-heavy- would also work), so I took a section of plywood, mounted the turnout-a Peco-on it, set up some small screw-in eyes, and ran the wire to it.  it worked very good.  I think Linn Westcott had done an article in MR some time ago, on this subject.  I will look through back issues if I have time.

Call Hydro Quebec for details.

Rich C.

Sid;
I had been my prior understanding [that houses built] in this area (New England) fired by electric heat are insulated by a different set of standards than another alternative hear source.  It is also my understanding [that Canada] has a lot of hydro (hence the name; "Hydro Quebec") power, and that is, of course, a cheap alternative.  The Canadians do know how to do some things better than most Americans, methinks...
In a house, in The States, that is electrically heated, the insulation is approached differently.  The basement ceiling (the structure comprising the first floor and the basement ceiling, is insulated.  Here is where these stays come into play. 
Rich C.

Wayne;
There is something I had thought of this afternoon; those wire retainers used for holding insulation in place-you in Canada would use them to hold insulation in the basement joist system on the first floor-electric heat...
Those wires are in two lengths; 18 and 24 inch.  A knob fashioned to fit on the wire and attached to the linkage-either underneath or camouflaged "on deck".  It is pretty simple, and when used in conjunction with the Peco turnout, just might be the ticket.

Rich C.

Mornin' all;

Yeah-my thoughts on it would be to have a sort of shelf-but about an inch and a half or so down from the level of the terrain.  Set the mechanisms on the shelf, screw them down, through a small hole, run a piece of music wire from the mechanism to the turnout in question, and attach it so as to make the turnout move.  All of this can be length of flexible plastic tube just large enough to contain the wire, and just use those little plastic straps that you slide around the tube.

I think some modifications to this apparatus-like a slide switch that can be used for powering the turnout, the aspects of a signal, etc-would also work.  Hard-to-reach areas could be tackled by conventional means, like tortoise, etc.

Rich C.

GRZ;
How did that knee operation go?   I get the idea you and I are about the same age.   Mine are killing me, so after this shoulder thing, they're next!

I have an idea and a lot of caboose levers; music wire from the turnout to the  edge of the layout.  I have been mulling that one over for a while.
In terms of recuperation, I have a bunch of South River, Bar Mills, etc.; kits to keep me in one place...and a life partner who won't take my guff.

Rich C.

"...Amarillo by mornin', Amarillo, I'll be there..."-George Strait

I remember I saw  Palo Duro Canyon for the first time-went horse-backing there.  What a beautiful place!  At the time, I hadn't been too far from Massachusetts; and for me at eighteen, it was a sight to behold!!  It was funny-I had just graduated from school at Chanute AFB, and got to 'Rillo in the middle of March.  It was a beautiful day, around 72 when I got to CQ to sign in, and I thought I'd hit the jackpot!  The next day (mon) I got outside BAQ in my shirtsleeves, and the icy wind hit me like an express freight!  That's "Big A" for you!  maybe you remember the "Palo Duro Dons"?

There are a lot of on-line supply sites here, lots of them in monthly pubs like RMC; so the world is pretty much your apple.

RIch C.

Deland;
My two cents worth:
I have long used 'Tichy train Group  (tichytraingroup.com) as one of my sources for parts.  Take a few minutes and visit (when you have time...).  They have parts for rolling stock as well as buildings; their parts are top quality...And the price, nine times out of ten, is right.  The instructions are clear, concise, and I think you will be very satisfied.
Tools will make or break you; if you have junk to work with, that is what you will produce.
Grandt line is another good parts company.  Cliff Grandt started it many years back, and his kid(s) are now at the helm since his passing.  Good quality parts, prices not too bad.  A lot of what they catalogue is for narrow gauge, but more are for standard gauge, and diesels.
The web can be your best friend here; there are a lot of companies. 
I got started working with plastic with an article in MR some years back, on how to build a diesel out of plastic stock.  It was, I believe, an RS-11-and that fired my enthusiasm for plastic.  Nowadays, there are a lot of suppliers; Evergreen Plastics among them. 
I have skirted brass for a good reason:  If you have no metal-working skills, try to avoid it until you have developed a level of comfort with ability.
OK; just some thoughts on this stuff.  By the way, what part of Texas do you come from?  I got stationed in Amarillo (461st bomb wing) just out of  tech school.  The people there are the greatest!  God bless them.

Rich C.