Do a Google search for "Bachmann 70180" and you'll get ~10 pages of hits, most of them have an online presence.  If you use eBay at all, try a search in "thefavoritespot"'s online store.

Kinda (koff, koff) pricey, but Wheels Of Time's Harriman coaches appear to be shorter than the 'standard' heavyweights.
http://www.wheelsotime.com/

I can't answer for your loco, but I ran into the same problem with my
Spectrum 2-8-0.  The M-T 2004 coupler has an offset shank that did the trick for me.  It raises the coupler about 1/2 the height of the coupler from their 1015/16.

Yes, with a caveat.  HO transformers put out higher voltage at high throttle settings.  As long as you run your train at a reasonable speed, not like a slot car, you should have no problem.  I've been messing with n scale for 35+ years without a voltage related problem.

Edit: dumb typo.

Quote from: johnd on June 01, 2008, 12:01:59 PM
Does anyone know of a good web site that describes how to build (simple)or a place to purchase turnout direction indicator lights to put on a layout - not on the control panel.

Thanks.

The indicator lights would be wired the same, whether placed on a control panel or in a signal or ? on the layout.

Quote from: Yampa Bob on May 21, 2008, 02:54:59 PM
I just got off the phone, talked to Atlas tech support.

<snip>
Third, some locos are shipped with instructions and diagrams, some are not.  It is an overseas problem, and Atlas has no control over it.
<snip>

Gotta call 'foul' on that one.  If Atlas is paying the contrctor(s), Atlas can make the rules!

You might not be getting  the ballast wet enough before you apply the scenic cement.  It needs to be really wet to let the cement absorb fully into the ballast.

Quote from: Peter Webster on May 12, 2008, 07:20:47 AM
Success at last! After much grunting and holding my tongue out of the corner of my mouth the shell finally came free. Yes it was the screws holding the couplers in
Thanks all
Peter Webster

If you feel you might need to back in there again, you can file a bit off of those nubs so that they don't hold so tightly.  Just don't get carried away!

Quote from: Peter Webster on May 10, 2008, 09:13:11 PM
I have just recently bought an SD45 and want to convert it to
1- micro trains couplers
2- DCC
I intend to hardwire and saw the article on this bulletin board but my main problem is how to get the shell off. Can someone please help?

Hold the presses!
If your engine has body mount couplers. remove the screws that hold them to the frame, then the body should lift off without too much fuss.  A lot of engines have 4 'nubs' that protrude from the frame and fit into small depressions in the body to hold everything together.  Some are quite tight fitting.  Is the paperwork that came with the engine any help?

Mike

Quote from: Peter Webster on May 10, 2008, 09:13:11 PM
I have just recently bought an SD45 and want to convert it to
1- micro trains couplers
2- DCC
I intend to hardwire and saw the article on this bulletin board but my main problem is how to get the shell off. Can someone please help?

No guarantee here, but try removing the screws that hold the fuel tank cover in place.  Under the tank cover, there should be two(?) more screws that actually hold the shell to the frame.  Like I said, no guarantee, but that is how the Dash-8 locos are set up.

Mike

Quote from: UP_Modeler on May 08, 2008, 07:42:58 PM
Dudes,

Check it out.  Kirk Reddie scooped all of the forums and I can't believe no one noticed this yet.  According to his "NSR Horizons" column on page 58 in the May-June NSR Magazine . . . and I quote . . .

"08-09/08 should see a new set of Santa Fe Super Chief starter sets with an F7A and 3 Super Chief cars (sleeper, diner and observation). Available separately are the F7A, F7B, Pleasure Dome and 4 car sets."

HELLO!  Santa Fe Pleasure Domes coming from Kato!  I remember when all the Santa Fe modelers panned Kato for not offering this car in the sets.  Well, they are now answering the call.  Looks like the Super Chief can now be accurately modeled.

Mike

Don't forget that Kato has also released the whole Super Chief consist in '07; three four car sets to build the whole train.

Mike(also)

Quote from: bwreno on May 08, 2008, 08:02:14 PM
Hi,
When I was a small boy (some 55 years ago), my parents took me the Pomona Fair (now the L A County Fair).  I remember a very large outdoors and permanent train layout.

Is it still there?  Scale?  Anybody have pics?  Was it large only because I was small?

Thanks,   BW

Here ya go:http://www.girr.org/girr/gjrr/gjrr.html
It seems to have changed a bit from when we were kids, but, if anything, its even more impressive!

Quote from: N-Railer on May 05, 2008, 09:02:35 PM
sorry if this is a topic that is beat to death BUT...I can't find any information on this so here is the question...

I have a locomotive: item number 85059, CSX Nscale D8-40C dcc ready, is the comapatable decoder item #44915 and most importantly will it fit without modification, thanks a bunch for any help.

The 44915 decoder appears to be a rather large decoder with an 8 pin plug.  Your engine takes a hard-wired decoder.  The Digitrax DZ125 is small and about the same price as the Bachmann.  Suitable decoders are also available from TCS and Lenz.

Quote from: newfiegod on April 29, 2008, 11:45:32 PM
Has anyone ever used the prodigy express dcc contrlooer by MRC and have you any advice about this unit. Is it user friendly? Is it compatible with all decoders? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

I haven't personally used the MRC controller, but, I would suggest that you read the manuals for ALL the "starter" systems before committing to any one of them.  See which ones are clear to you as you will be referring to them quite a bit as you learn how to make things work like you want them to.  How easy is it to change CV values, or make, add to, and break consists?  Digitrax, MRC, and NCE all make nice entry level systems, so you can't really go too far astray with whichever one you choose.

Mike

If you take the loco back to your LHS again, ask them to try setting CV61 to 00.  This resets lighting functions to factory.  It MIGHT work.

Mike