Hi AmoryRR,

Click on the below linked thread. If that still does not help, then draw a picture using a program such as MS paint and post it here.

Generally the terminal will need to be anywhere between the bottom of the Y of both your turnouts.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,8183.0.html

Good Luck

Hi mdo1998,


On your turnout control boxes,
Position the box with the slide switch so it throws from left to right and is furthest away from you.
Plug the red wire from the output AC terminal on the power supply into the right side of the box (2 pin male connections).
Plug the green wire from the switch track into the 3 pin connecter (which should be facing you).
Plug the next box into the first, on the left side connection pins, and repeat for as many switches as you have.
The red wire that comes with your turnouts should have a female plastic connector on one end and sta-cons crimped to the wires on the other.
Sta-con side to the AC terminals on your power supply no modification needed. Female connecter plugs to the switch box, again no modification needed.

QuoteNo, the turnouts do not require any power whatsoever for the train to run over them, what your problem is is that you do not have enough electrical pickup with your locomotive.

The energized coil is what holds the points tight to the stock rails. Without power, they will not reliably hold fast. The internal spring is not strong enough to bet the farm on.

Joe is correct the turn outs are in fact power routing, therefore your terminal/re-railer track must be positioned somewhere at the bottom of the Y of the turnout or the trains will stop.

If you can draw a simple diagram of your layout and post it here, we can tell you where the terminal track needs to be.

I hope this helps you, if not, I can post a picture after I get off work late this evening.

Good Luck

Hi cam777,

To answer your questions:
Yes, it has traction tires on the first set of drivers.

Does it negotiate insulated switches OK?
No, as the wheel base is short and it picks power from the 3 driver sets not equipped with the traction tires, no tender pick-up.

Is it smooth/quiet?
That's subjective, but I would say no, compared to the new release of the 2-8-0 (actually there not even in the same league).

Good Luck

Hi rack776,

I don't have that version of the Connie; I have the new Spectrum version.

For a parts loco, I would look to eBay where they can be had for <20$.
Bachmann made a ton of them and they can also still be found at hobby shops and train shows as NOS.

Good luck

Hi woodywood143,

Turn the loco over, and look at the bottom of the fuel tank.
Is it embossed with "Bachmann Hong Kong"or "Bachmann China"?

If the loco was in the white cardboard box, you're looking at 1987-2001.

Here's the information you maybe looking for;

http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/bachgp40.html

Spookshow's site is a great resource for n scale.

Click on "N Scale Locomotive Encyclopedia".

Good Luck, and have fun with that jeep!

Joe,

Please double check my math.
11.25r x .57735 = 6.49518 - .78125 = 5.71393
And
19r x .57735 = 10.96965 - .78125 = 10.1884.

I maybe wrong yet again.

Thanks for all your input to this forum, the next time a figure 8 question comes up, maybe we can direct them here, to this thread.

I think I've got it but please correct me if I don't

Sincerely,

James in fl

60° crossing

With calipers the crossing measures 1.552" or 39.43mm across opposite vertical faces.
In layman's terms that's .010" short of 1 9/16".

For planning let's call it 1 9/16 (1.5625)".

The embossed part number on the bottom of the crossing is N4842-B.

The four filler pieces included with the crossing are embossed N 1⅛ ST.
The P/N is N4829A-3.
They measure out as advertised 1⅛" (1.125 + .004 - .000).

Bachmann has re-released this crossing as having longer legs whereas the filler pieces roadbed will not need to be trimmed by the modeler.
The new ones do not come with the filler pieces.

I do not have the newer version.

Joe

Sometime ago, I purchased the Bachmann assorted straight section track pack.
Included in the pack are two 4½" straight pieces (N4829A-1), two 2¼" pieces (N4829A-2) and two 1⅛" pieces (N4829A-3).
With calipers they check out as advertised.

I am just wondering out loud, why the "oddball" 1 29/32" pieces are included with the 90° crossing?

It will be interesting to see what the filler pieces included with the 3 other crossings measure out to.

Post edit to omit misinformation.

90° crossing

Measuring with calipers in inches;

The crossing measures 1.125 (+.005, -.000) across all four surfaces, for all intents and purposes it is 1⅛" and square.
In millimeters it measures 28.575 (+.127, -.000).
There is no embossed part number on the crossing.

The four filler pieces that are included with the 90° crossing are embossed as 2 29/32" ST.
They are not embossed with a part number.

Here's the weird part, they actually measure 1 29/32".

With calipers they measure from a low of 1.906 to a high of 1.913.
For planning 1 29/32' will do.

Hi glsummers,

I do not own any of the B'mann trolleys (Brill or PCC); therefore I cannot comment on whether or not they are DCC ready from the factory.
If they are not, then you will need to isolate the motor.

I am a DC guy, but two fellows at the club have installed Digitrax DZ123 Z Scale decoders (both in N Scale Brills) and both are satisfied with the results.

From what I understand, the decoder is pretty basic (but so is the Brill) and can be had for <20 USD.
Again, I am NOT a DCC convert and cannot speak as to what the definition of "basic decoder" is by today's standards.

Good Luck

IIRC there about a half dozen or so from different manufacturers.

A-Line, Atlas (Tomix), Aztec, Centerline...just to name a few.

Google "N scale track cleaning car".

Good Luck.

It can be done...where there is a will there is a way...
I'm kind of envisioning shelves up high, above door/window level.
The draw back there would be dust on the track and how to remove it, but could be dealt with in several ways and definitely not a deal breaker.

The rail would have to be far back enough from the center of the room edge or the shelve would need some sort of lip to keep a derailed train from falling to the floor. A lip may pose some viewing issues.

Possibly glass shelves could be used with a ½'' or so Plexiglas strip, connected with clear silicone, attached vertically to the viewing edge.

Lot's of possibilities to consider.
Again it can be done.
Let us know how it works out.

Good Luck.

rdxpress,

You stated you bought a loco ~15 years ago.

By your own admission, you don't know if you have a problem or not.

Look to after market components if indeed you need a fix or replacement parts.

I certainly would not look to any manufacturer for a replacement or replacement parts, after 15 years.

But that's just me.
And obviously my morals, values, and character differ from yours.

Good luck in your quest to "get over" on Bachmann.
Class action suit...yeah right.

Go for it "Big Dog"

Unbelievable... sheesh.

Don't get me wrong... I don't blame you... I blame your parents for raising you in that mentality.

The screw in the center must come out.
Try wedging something between the screw head and the bottom of the tender while you are un-screwing it.

Sometimes it's best to walk away when you're frustrated.
When you feel like going back to it, check the wheel gauge.

There is a solution and a fix we just need to get from here to there.

Hopefully someone with the Acela set will chime in,