well  i started to install some dcc turnouts on my layout .   i went into turnout/asc programming .       i get program to main  and service gets  you into cvs .  then the other ones assign on service   track,     but nothing to program on main to assign the switch a number ,  on my controller .     what i did   took every engine off the tracks or lighted cars.   undid my main service power hook up and changed it to the service track   so my layout is all service .       ok   i hit the mode button on switch   it clicks     then i hit program on service with a address of 001  /1  /1     i get error messeges    11   or 12 .   i tried all different ways but nothing to fix the trouble to get a dcc turnout to work with controller .       i searched the net   then read the paper it went with it ( set up on ez command nothing abount dynamis)    check Dynamis booklet    nothing in that booklet to a main track or servic track programming   check bachman s you tube and they hit the buttons to switch but nothing to program with dynamis .    what the heck am i doing wrong   i even took a long break and went back  researched nothing to help so im posting on here .           i wont be back on until tomarrow nite after work   

Dave   the frustrated switchman with a closed down railroad 

i am going to buy one of these reversing track systems   i havent yet .  but what i do know theres a bumper on the end when hit and changes the top rail polarites from + to -    thers a set of wires underneath the ez track that connects the end bumpers togather  and switches the polairty on the tracks .    ok        so question frist   did you turn your trolly around and did it go back and stop the other way ?    if it did  i think you might have a bad connection underneath on the tracks .   if the loco goes one way on a dc system it should go both ways  when polairty changes.
  next question would be  do you own a voltage tester   check and see if you have voltage to the tracks  then hit the bumper and see if it changes the polaity .

if anybody else know a little abount this or what they have found  but this is what i would do frist .
dave

i do have one loco  i converted the tender to be powered   the steamer itself had the pancake motor   it died soon after,    so its been retired .  the tender is a long tender where i could fit a f-7 chassie under it .    it pulled 14 cars  verses 4 cars up a grade .   someday i will convert the tender to fit a modern steam design  loco.   the loco was a      4-8-4 burlington by bachman.  also the drive wheels and rods are messed up now also.    in the late fifties they would of scraped her.      ive been where you were thinking  and found the box car was easier to do and easy to move from one to another loco,   but this what makes a hobby interesting  is to make better and share ideas and be your own engineer to design and get those rusty wheels moving.           it would be nice if they did make tenders with power and the loco with powered wheels .         the ones i run i can make loco wheel slip on start ups which its neat.
Dave

  what i do when i like running long trains with the steamers .   ive built some powered box cars  from some old tyco cars and the chassie of a f-7  A or B from bachmann then i put them close to the front by the steamer   i can pull what you have in steam and get a longer train.     i have built 3 of these  so i really could build a 60 car train and do a 2 % with out any trouble .  i like to stay around 30 or less  it looks nicer on my style of layout and stay with one hidden helper box car loco.  you would never know i had extra power

Dave

yes roger  when running your trains  you are the uncoupler man and thats how i do it.   in a real railroad their is someone pulling the latch pin anyways  so its a hands on operation   somebody has to get work dirty on the job. 
dave

Limey      did you pull those wires out when you did it.      if so why not connect a string or smaller wire to pull wires back.   and thanks for the info  someday ill do mine and hope i find this comment and suggestion.      if this idea helps lets us all know 
Dave

ok heres a tour of the   UP depot  in ogden utah       a must see.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NEH-tO4SVs&NR=1&feature=endscreen


good info on those rare locos     gas turbine /big blow #26 ,   sd 40 ,   DD40ax # 6916, and a little of the 4-8-4 #833
Dave

41k  light spectrum is abount the best for color rendering   daylights are around 56k     the higher the number the bluer or brightness increases .   the lower the number the  more yellow look .   i buy 41k at work t-8  with electronic ballast

up 844      i was at the train show in ogden utah today    i stood by the gs4-8-4  road number 833 and the DD40ax  i think the number was 6936or 3916  the dd40ax was longer.    under the right front steps thats where they placed the bell    i rang it a few times .    also a turbine loco with road numbers 26   i forgot my camera so maybe ill be back tomarrow to take some pictures.          my ticket number today was 8440 to get in and i won a trip on the neveda railway  for 4 people with that cool ticket.

i should say  thanks to  Richg  then Jerry  for that circuit    ive been wanting to do a siding  once a train is in nothing else will go in unless that one leaves in my passanger terminal.     that 555 circuit has so many things it can do . 

Donald   you might want to find somebody close to you that likes the same hobby and help out here and there building it with you  a trainee.        when i retire which is getting closer  im going to do a layout thats not on the floor   sometimes sitting on the floor starts hurting.   i have a neighbor that helps me run mine and helps with other things when needed.   he likes to barrow alot of tools of mine and drive my old john deere tractor.   

Dave

my favorite horse died last fall of old age.  i have myself riding it on my layout to remember her.    but your cars a very nice with those nice locos.     you need a funeral sound decoder to go with them .   crying sounds , and the priest giving the last respects  that would top it off. 
Dave

heres a site you might like   for installing decoders for all makes .
http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/HO_Search/search.html

Heres the draw bar on that j class
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_68_89&products_id=198

its called a J bar   the trouble with this bar it hangs up in the slots.  also you have tender and loco connected and hard to put on the rails  as to those with just a straight draw bar  from loco and a peg on tender .
when you corner charper curves and goes back to striaght the tender likes to stay in curve position  the j connector hangs up in its slots   i have done the lube and the wires were not the issue.   since ive redone mine j class loco  i havent had one bit of trouble with the tender  derailing .  also the j bar dont much flexing up and down .  and now i can use any tender bachmann has with the proper wire leads.        i have some 22" in my yard and no promblems there also and even made it through my  s curve on a parking rail .

i think that  J draw bar was a bad idea and thats why they dont use them anymore 

Dave

i gave up on mine  so i made a draw bar coupler like other bachmanns loco to tenders .     
you have the answer from yourself.
Dave

Wounded bear     i live close to ogden utah   they have a turbine in there museam .   i have walked through the inside of this before they locked her up.         and a great show on you tube on those turbines  i saw that several weeks ago  a must see    theres another one that was for trainning  for the UP.   it was also long  but a great one to watch also.
Dave