I think it would be quite rare. You might want to discuss that with a brass dealer. Find a brass dealer and call them and have a little chat. They might have some information.

I'll Google your boxcar to see what turns up.

Cheers,
Joshua

Best Snowman has my engine. Look at his avatar.

His UP F9, is the same one I have. Yeah, these are out-dated by new tooling. I have two UP F9As, one is old, one is new.

Guess which one runs?

Hehe,
Joshua

Hi guys, I haven't posted lately, have I?

Well, I've had some discussion about nailing E-Z Track down. The only nails I could find that were long enough and small enough were Woodland Scenics "T" scenery pins. You could us them, but you'd have to cut off the "T" top. As Brad said too, you risk having uneven track. For I have noticed that when you buy the E-Z track, it is slightly bowed. Imagine the bowing's progression over years on your layout? You will have a roller coaster. So, be sure, if you really want nails, to adhere the sections with a plastic-safe adhesive. If your using a foam base, be sure the adhesive it foam safe too. Liquid Nails for Projects is okay. Any other type than Projects will cause trouble and will eat away at the foam.

Cheers,
Joshua

Jet,
They got the tanker where it needed to go... That's all that counts.

As for this Rail Roader stuff,
You know, I saw this comming when Intermodal picked up. You could load freight on a truck too. Well, to save good ol' boxcars and tankers, they made them road capadiable too!

Cheers,
Joshua

Well,
I like what I see. Although an airbrush would be nice, I certainly understand why one wasn't used. Continue the fine job!

Cheers,
Joshua

Dear tford,
A consist is what makes up a train. For example. The consist is a FT-A, CB&Q Railroad boxcar, and a ATSF railroad caboose.

A CV, well...

A CV is a Control Variable. In DCC, you can control many variables. Or something the train can do. One CV is the horn, the bell. One is the address. Like where you live, it identifies a specific locomotive. So, say you have your FT-A. It is CV 4, or locomotive 4. While the FT-B is CV 5, or locomotive 5. What you could do, is change (program/adjust) them to the same CV (number). Is it possible? YES! It's a basic thing of DCC, just follow the DCC system's instructions on how to program and change it's CV, and then be sure you know what your locomotive can do too! Sometimes they are different then the system, so be sure your following instructions. So, after a bit of fun changing, FT-A and FT-B are both locomotive 4. So, when you go to change it's speed, they both work simultaneously! In perfect tune. If your in DC, where you can only control Speed, Direction, and Power. You just have to guess that since they are nearly the same locomotives that there motors and gearing inside are so identical that they'll rung nearly simultaneously.

If you have questions, please post. I love explaining DCC and DC, I find it's my calling.

Good luck, and the E-Z Command from Bachmann is very great for starting off! It includes a DVD, VERY great for instruction! However, the E-Z Command is far from a very real DCC system. It's very limited, and is more laid out for easy use. Real systems involve more effort.

Cheers,
Joshua

P.S. I just basically just said exactly what ABC posted... just more explaining.

In the Model Railroader Special Issue, How to Build Realistic Reliable Track I noticed he used a spike head made from flattened wire for a feeder connection. That was pretty ingenious. I came up with an idea I wondered if anyone would could try. I don't have the supplies. Here it is:

Remove the ties from a section needed to be soldered. Use a fair gauge wire (Lowest possible you can use.) and solder it to the rail for a feeder, but have it run directly under that rail, with nothing but solider coming out the sides. File down the sides to perfect shape were they look like they should. Then, test your connection. If it works perfectly, great. Then go to Details West. They sell joint bars for jointed rail. They are plastic, apply them with CA to the rail side over your solder area. On both sides too. Make sure you filed the inside if necessary. Paint the rail, and test the connection. Even better, paint the joint part before installation. If all goes well, your feeder is now a joint. Slightly file a cut in the top over the joint middle to look like connected rails if needed.

Cheers,
Joshua

Well, the best way to deal with this it disassemble the Genesis or Ready-To-Roll stuff and reassemble it like a kit until you get used to just taking it out of the box. However, this may in fact be a problem to the hobby world since less true skill will now be required to do this hobby. Yet, you will have to know the same things if you want to maintenance, fix, or tinker with the locomotive or car. Yet, the art of tinkering really hasn't become that popular, but it is just as good as a pass-time as operating. 

Cheers,
Joshua

As a personal preference, Bachmann Spectrum and Blueline are fairly equal. The only pros and cons of this argument are the models offered. Larger steam and more famous locomotives are offered my Broadway Limited Imports, while Bachmann focuses on common models that are often found on many railroads making for a wider appealing industry. If I had a choice, Broadway would win. Bachmann would just come in second. Why, well, the sound is nice, and they have good engine models. For example, I enjoy the AC series cab-forwards more than a Consolidation. While another modeler, loves a Consolidation, therefore, Bachmann wins. Now, in true terms, you are both equal.

Cheers,
Joshua

To all,
Perhaps some more Thomas parts. I was a bit disappointed to see only faces on for sale in the 'Order Parts' section. I would love to see engines and such being sold, so sell-appointed repairs are able to be done. Also, having such access will encourage personal scratch-built or kit-bashed locomotives. 

Cheers,
Joshua

Ray,
Thanks. I still need some pastels though. I found some at our Hobby Lobby, but I don't think they carry an assortment meant for weathering. I, however, think they have darker shades. If I find such I will purchase them. All it takes is my dulling pocket knife (I use my X-Acto Knife for modeling anyway.) and I have power. Though, I still need Dullcoat. Funny how out of the LHS, Hobby Lobby, Micheals, and Walmart, we don't have Testors Dullcoat? We have everything but that. I did find it at Hands to Work Railroading in Alsip, Illinois. It wasn't to bad, but $5.00 isn't what I have... Perhaps $6.00,  I don't think you guys have enough to spend Ray! Ryan has some building siding stryene, very usable stuff. It's perfect for anything I might need. I think I have the paint washing down. I found the perfect wash for my two Penn Central items in the blue-green color. It came out great. Here's why I need that Tacky Glue: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIoCwtODutU

I watch that guy's videos like crazy. He's pretty good. I just don't like how he cusses sometimes, but I wear headphones. As to for one, not to disturb anyone, then two, not to allow anything I don't want someone to hear get heard. That video isn't bad, but all are like this. Great How-Tos and instructions. He's an adult though, so... He is nice though.

lexon,
Great website! I found it interesting that people do like to model the great American's and Moguls.

Cheers,
Joshua

P.S. Ray, perhaps we should make a new topic, we are "Talking Over" the main topic. Which lexon has reminded us of.

Ray,
Great idea, I can already imagine how I'll (Or Ryan, he's been cleaning nothing but track lately, perhaps a real involved project will be needed.) do it on the bench! While I'm there (At Walmart.), I'll check out the art section for some Tacky Glue and some cheap acrylics. I'm starting to toy around with washes, so I need more paint since small tabbed containers don't hold a whole lot. Ray, I'm starting to become a real modeler... My years of armchair dreaming and having short knowledge are numbered. Keep that in mind.

Keep rolling Ray.

Cheers,
Joshua

Ray,
It was actually caused when I tried to remove a truck. It doesn't use pins, but instead, uses two plastic tabs that have flanges at the end that hold it inside a hollow hole. Bot tabs snapped off, this will lead to some problems since it doesn't sport screw holes for Kadee or modern trucks. As for the couplers, yes, I have thought about doing that once. I have a bad (It worked when I bought it.) Model Power ALCo RS11 that I purchased at the Illinois Railway Museum. It was customized by a previous owner, the truck mounted couplers were cut off from the plastic shank, and mounted on a piece of balsa. This wood is just wide enough to fit between the shortened (So that the old coupler style could take sharp radius.) pilot and glued on. A new Kadee knuckle coupler with box was screwed into the wood. He/she even painted where the wood showed on the outside black!

Cheers,
Joshua

Robert,
With Trainz, you can only register online once, but as long as you completely uninstall it on one computer. Then you can re-register it on another. The Internet goes with you wherever you have connection. So if you completely uninstall Trainz, on (For example.) your laptop, then install it on your desktop. You'll still have access to the 1,000,000+ free online content downloads from Auran for that simulator. As long as the installation is sucessful, and you get connection to the Internet, you should be fine. For more help, you can find better assistance on www.auran.com 's forums. Those guys are smarter than me, and can simplify something for you to understand, or chat scripts with fellow modelers. Computer modelers, for clarification.

Cheers,
Joshua

Hi all,
I went to the Train Fair that was this weekend in Chicago Ridge, Illinois at the High School! It was incredible. I loved every second of it. I saw at least 20 Athearn Genesis locomotives, most were Tunnels (EMD SD40T-2s.). I had a lot of firsts, which just pulled me into the hobby further. Good Lord, I'm into the railroading for life! Here's a list of the layouts and what I saw:

Table 1: An M.T.H. O scale layout running on DCS with various locomotives from Norfolk Southern GE locomotives pulling an Intermodal freight. A Norfolk and Western Class Y3 Mallet pulling a N&W passenger train. An A.T.S.F. 4-8-4 Northern pulling a freight, and was traded for a Conrail diesel later on. The Norfolk Southern units went from a GE Dash 8-40C + SD40-2 to a Dash 9-44CW + SD40-2. They gave control of a cab to the Class Y3 Mallet to kids for fun, which was nice. I quote one kid, "Why doesn't the engine start up fast, I have it on full." I commented for him saying to a man next to me that it's very nice momentum on the locomotive, he nodded. (My first time seeing M.T.H. locomotives of such class in operation.)

Table 2: A large HO scale layout with many, many locomotives from Athearn. Running trains were a Conrail EMD SD60I + SD70M Flared Radiators pulling an Intermodal freight with a hidden camera in the last top containers showing the roof of a flat caboose and whatever was behind. A small television displayed the camera's footage. Then there was a BNSF manifest freight headed by an older Athearn BNSF GE Dash 9-44CW + BNSF EMD SD60M, another Athearn, newer. No camera. Lastly was an Elgin, Joliet, and Eastern manifest pulled by a EJ&E EMD SD40-2 + EJ&E SD40-2 both Tsunami Sound equipped. This train waiting in a third track yard until the two track mainline was clear enough for it to run through. The yard was filled with cars and locomotives with complete scenes. (My first time hearing HO scale sound.)

"Table" 3: A LGB on-the-floor set up featuring equipment from High Railed cars too Amtrak commuters. All complete with automatic signaling.  Great for people watching trains, a lot to see too. The P42s were very spiffy, but a few sound equipped steam, not many sound equipped diesel locomotives. (First time seeing G Gauge in action in real life.)

Table 4: A Milwaukee Road small N scale layout at eye level. This layout featured stunning scenic and locomotive detail. Featuring static grass, high detail trees, and with locomotives stationary at the station with mars light on full tilt and sound equipped DCC locomotives. It also had a few C&NW locomotives, but a sound equipped 2-6-2 Pacific had a lot of trouble operating on the layout. It found good track at Table 5. (First time seeing N scale mars and lighting with detailed scenery.)

Table 5: This giant N scale Union Pacific layout featured a new Athearn Tsunami Sound equipped 8,500 H.P. turbine. A KATO SD70ACe pulled a Manifest just like the Turbine. The layout featured complete scenery and backdrop. The yard and the rear side was complete and featured a new Bachmann DD40AX with it's strobe on. A Union Pacific passenger train was sitting with a complete A-B-B-A E unit set. This was inactive for the entire time there. They operated some steam locomotives (Including the C&NW 2-6-2.) later in the day. When I first approached the layout, I caught up (By power-walking.) to the Turbine train. It was going very fast since it hit a high voltage power block. Then disaster occurred, which scared me. As the train was going, very fast, a Gulf tanker car hit an uneven joint in the lift up section. It derailed, and ran for awhile. I was in shock, and soon at the high speed it was back on layout ground. It decoupled and the coupler hit a tie. The car jolted, and decoupled from the rest of the train (Mindful it's on a grade of 1.5% track and slopes on the right-of-way.) and tipped on it's side on the slope. The top hatch kept the car from disaster. I quickly hurried by best to get the the attention of an operator on the other side of the layout by yelling. I yelled, "Excuse me, excuse me! You have a derailment and wreck!" He walked over, the rest of the train was still powering on. He changed addresses and stopped the turbine. Called over some more fellows. They got the car on, leveled the lift, and coupled in no time. It never had anymore trouble after that. (First time for hearing N scale sound and seeing such a big N scale layout.)

I will talk more later, but I have more to say. I feel that is enough to keep you thinking for quite some time. Please let me know what you think. While I was there, I purchased a CB&Q 4-Bay hopper with Kadee sprung trucks on it. Then my first Proto 2000 piece, and undecorated caboose with full interior, grab irons modeled on (Looks nice really.) and interior lighting. All for $4.95 for the hopper, and $6.00 for the discontinued caboose. 

Cheers,
Joshua