Yes Ton N! I use only 2 wire bipolar r/g LEDs they are just so much easier for these purposes.  Jim, the cheapest, simplest way to do this is to use DPDT switches.  I wonder if it is possible to rig a small very easily manipulated (flimsy?) DPDT switch that can be turned by the movement of the switch?

On my layout I use DPDT throw switches to control a circuit of two bipolar r/g LEDs on the control panel, two bipolar r/g LEDs on the signals, and a tortoise switch machine.  But for DCC switches, I believe this is going into Digitrax block sensor computer system territory...  We have all this set up at my club, with computer activated DPDT that can be triggered through a pushbutton or computer, to a tortoise and pair of LEDs.

It might be worth it to simply have a separate system for flicking a throw switch to handle the LEDs whenever you change the position of a switch.

Okay well here's what worked (works) for me...

You will need some small stranded wire (I used 22 gauge), anything even remotely small will work.  I attached a photo of this below:  you will want to drill a hole through the hinge joint on each rail.  Be careful not to damage any of the moving parts underneath.  Feed each wire down through one of the wholes.  Any wire will do, color does not matter, if I fits through the hole it will do.  Strip off some of the coating on the wire ends above the track surface, poking through the hinges (nothing too small). Fit the wire into the hole just like you do when you are flossing your teeth.  Use a screwdriver, fingernail, or exact-o knife to press the wire into place.  Because we have used small gauge wire, no mobility problems will occur.  I use tortoise switch machines and have never had a problem, so I'm sure doing it with your hand should have no problems.  Now take these wires, and we need to find a way for them to touch anything that has power to it.  Now, making sure to kept the left wire on the left side and the right wire on the right side, take one of the connected wires and try to wedge it into a rail joiner or any other easy way you see of getting it to touch some point on a rail.  This has worked me for the past 2 years on my layout, with a bus line, however I do use atlas snap track and I suppose this method should be just as reliable on ez track.

Hope this helps a bit!

**had difficulty uploading the photo... here's a link to the photo on google drive:**
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w832K_XWQ7tBTi3Cp2uf9lSYedGD8J5N/view?usp=sharing

I have used a zephyr for years and it works extremely well on layouts much bigger than mine as well.  If it is the loconet that you want to use, it is fully compatible.  I use throttles with IR receivers and have friends that use a LNWI with it as well (you could use both at the same time LOL).  Best of luck with DCC!

-Jay

I believe that this sounds like a problem with electrical continuity.  I faced this problem very often...  For me, I would spend so much time cleaning individual switches trying to get them to work thinking it was dirty track.  However, this is a very easy fix, but it depends on which type of layout you have.  Do you have a layout with a bus line that has feeder wires soldered to the track?  Or do you have a layout that is easy track snapped together with one plug into a terminal?

Let me know and I'll show you what to do step by step...

-Jay

Me too... Roundhouse made some but they're really rare and expensive.  Wish there would be more of a variety of tourist line products.

Well, the only part they'd be able to supply with the faceplate would be the entire body shell that contains the face plate (part #HTL15-00A01).  Or, if you're looking for something to do, you could try to paint it (weather that be a temporary or permanent fix LOL).  Start with gray, let that fully dry, then do white for the mouth and black eyebrows.  Good luck to you!

Apologies if this question has already been asked and answered before, but may I please ask for some assistance in disassembling my Thomas and Friends model?  I've gotten to the point where I removed the face plate, can separate the chassis from the body, and can wiggle the cab roof.  I don't want to remove the wrong screw and have it explode into a million pieces, so does anyone know what the next right step is?

...I'm experimenting fitting a DCC decoder into T&F locos.  Trying James and Thomas first.  At a train show, one of the members from my club brought a Hornby Thomas with DCC to our modular layout, but with no couplers LOL.  On the spot, we retrofitted a coupler off a Bachmann Thomas, and let's just say it didn't go too well.  So, I decided to take the more planned out route, and use Bachmann.

Hello!  I understand that there have been lots of posts asking about short line road name products, and I hate to admit it but I guess this is another one of them.  Are there any plans to make any sort of motive power or rolling stock for short/tourist lines near the local Pennsylvania area in any scale (HO specifically...), like Strasburg, Reading Blue Mountain, Wilmington & Western, etc..... as in putting a new paint job on existing tooling?  Like a Strasburg decapod or 2-8-0, or a W&W 4-4-0 or 0-6-0, or slapping a new paint job onto those 1800's era passenger cars.  I get these are very specific localized road names, but I'm just throwing it out there.  Roundhouse/Athearn made some HO Strasburg cars, but they are beyond rare and crazy expensive when you do find them.

On this topic... does anyone know of good retail decal sheets for Pennsylvania-area tourist lines?