Another variation on a theme as given by Desertdweller is to use a VERY dry brush technique over all of the car. Choose as similar a colour from Floquil/Scalecoat/Pollyscale (or whatever) and - I repeat, using a VERY dry brush - scrub it over the car. Direction of brushing doesnt seem to matter that much.

To get that VERY dry brush, dip the end of the brush tip into the paint, then scrub it onto a clean paper towel or clean rag until it looks like its all gone. Then apply it to the model.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

Hi Bob

I would strongly suggest you consider a combined sound and motor controller like a Tsunami, QSI or even ESU Loksound Select. (I might have included a Zimo MX644 decoder in that list but the only one that I have installed, a 21-pin version into a 2-6-6-2 articulated, went "pffft" as the pre-packed factory smoke escaped, so am waiting on its replacement before commenting.)

That way you get the sound you want plus an appreciable improvement in motor control.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

Opinion number 2,643. :-)

I solder on curves to maintain alignment (flex track), but do not solder on straights to allow expansion. However I do solder feeders from the track bus to each and every rail. And I hate soldering, too.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

PS - I thought everybody superglued the cherry to the sundae

Or, if you really REALLY want a model airport, there is always this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qz4NcTnQedo&feature=iv&annotation_id=annotation_785740

And yes,  it is all in HO scale

Cheers

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

or anybody else who knows

If you take a peek into the tender of the On30 articulated, you will see that although there is an 8 pin socket into which the standard Bachmann decoder is plugged, the 8-pin socket itself plugs into a 21-pin board. The 21-pin board has all the necessary pins and even speaker outputs marked, apparently ready to solder wires into that lead to the speaker. All fine so far, I had a QSI V7 Rev U decoder running into a MRC speaker that, with a little blutac, fitted into the speaker receptacle beautifully. Gave me many hours of flawless enjoyment.

But, noticing the 21-pin board underneath, I though I could save space (and use a smaller tender load) by installing a 21 pin sound decoder. I ordered a Zimo MX644D with custom Uintah 2-6-6-2 soundfiles and installed it. It was the easiest install I have ever done.

But (should have realised this ....)

When I powered up the NCE system, I noticed the output from the EB3 (fitted with a 15w car bulb) lit. And then I noticed that I also had the smell of fried electronics and a smoke trail leading back to the tender. Opening the tender I found that my new Zimo decoder had a large burn mark on it. It was what we know here in Oz as Wallaby Bob's Cousin. Now I can exchange the Zimo for the cost of freight, so that isnt a big issue. I am concerned that perhaps the board in the artic - which was never announced as a 21-pin board - is not configured for the 21-pin standard.

Can the Bach-man, or anybody else, help me out here? Otherwise I shall have to buy an additional 21-pin socket to 8 pin plug adaptor and hope that that solves the issue.

Now this is what I call big. In that space I think I would build an O scale layout to run long trains, let alone in N scale - can't wait to see how it turns out. Anybody want to sign up for an engineers job? (Helps if you like Uncle Pete, I guess :-) )

http://www.unionpacificmodelrailroad.com.au/index.html

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

For a quick comparison of the size of the EM-1, go to www.steamlocomotive.com, and click on he 2-8-8-4 wheel arrangement. Darn I was hoping for a DM&IR version

Can you try a couple of things.

Firstly, make sure that the decoder is pressed firmly home into its socket.

Secondly, if that doesnt work, can you temporarily remove a known working decoder from one of your locos and try that in the t/t? You will need to use the address for the loco, of course.

These steps will at least go towards removing variables from the equation.

Regards

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Australia

When it comes to the Davenport, an ESU micro fits under the engine hood with the speaker making the right noise through where the fake plastic mesh was in the grill area until it is cut out and replaced with fine brass mesh. Then you can download any sound you require - I am still using their Caterpillar sound file, sounds good.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

If the "mullions" are cast into the clear plastic, you could use a technique I once used on a Walthers New River Mining kit - on an offcut of pine, slop some paint of your chosen colour to make a nice but not too deep puddle - wet wood is what you are aiming for. Press the window onto it and the raised portions are covered. Put aside to dry.

There was also another variant of this I remember reading in the model rr press some time after that used a similarly treated flat pencil eraser to achieve the same result.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

Google could very well be your friend. Try "cab control model railroad" as a search and see what results. I find it a difficult concept to explain, but easy to do :-) Perhaps Jim Banner or someone with an ability to describe such things might like to try to explain cab control? But basically you only switch on the section of track to the controller that you want to use.

Good hunting

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

Why (specifically) a Tsunami 730? I fitted a micro ESU to mine, cut out the fake radiator grill and replace it with fine brass mesh and the oval speaker that came with the ESU sits up against the opening. Seal it with Blu-Tack, load what ever sound file you want in it - I use a Caterdpillar sound file - and it sounds great.

For pick up, remove the cover plate, wheels and pick up assembly and solder some phosphor bronze strip (from Slaters) to form track sliders (which will be hidden by the skirts behind the counterweights) and most, if not all, your pick-up woes will be gone.

And keep your rotten 40 deg days in Melbourne, its moved up here today, thankfully only mid 30's :-)

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

I installed a QSI Revolution U Articulated Steam decoder in my artic, along with a spare MRC speaker. I did however use the wood load (and matching diamond stack) to allow the decoder to project into the cavity in the base of the wood load. Sound is very passable with speaker sealed with silicon in its recess and the wood load similarly sealed to the tender. And I personally favour the "operatability" of the QSI - with heaps of momentum the F7 braking function is very prototypical, and the "sound of power" (which I prefer to call Digital Cut Off) also adds an element of realism in the operation, cranking the chuffs up when slogging up grade at low speed, or drifting down grade with just the clank of the rods.

However .....

I recently pulled the tender to bits again to see if I could fit a QSI 1.57" Hi-Base speaker. I have these in three of my other locomotives and really like the "depth" of sound it gives, especially to the chuff. But I got side tracked. Looking close I could see that the board the QSI speaker is plugged into via an 8-pin harness is actually a piggy back, sitting atop a board with a 21-pin connector. This connector is used quite a bit by our European friends, and Zimo (who IMHO make some of the best decoders going) have a 21-pin MX640 sound decoder, which intrigues me so much (have a look at the definition for the MX640 on Decoder Pro and you will see what I mean) that when my train budget allows I think I will experiment with. You might like to try this as well as the 21-pin board on its own provides much more room for a decoder in the tender shell.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Australia

Logging disconnects! Not every log road cuts Bachmann Standard Logs :-)

Hi Larry

Sound can be fitted to all of them, though the Forney I bought came already fitted. Still and all, with a Micro Tsunami being able to be fitted into the bunker of a Shay, I don't think the Forney would be much of a problem. I don't think you can buy the Bachmann boards separately, so it may have to be with the Soundtraxx standard (or the mini) decoder.

Have you checked with your local hobby shop to see if they do, or know someone who does, installations?

Regards

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Australia