I would love a 4-6-0, but I'd rather get the high boiler version with the same tender as the 2-10-0. I wish I could get those tenders separate, I much prefer it to the tender with the low boiler, 4-4-0, and even the 2-8-0. I bet the 2-8-0s would look good with those short tenders actually...

i'm intrigued by this keep alive device you mentioned. I'd toyed with the idea of trying to use a cap of some sort but I don't know enough about decoders to feel safe just jumping in on this. I know my track could stand to be cleaner, I just havent found a good method.

Hello, anybody know any tips for preventing my only sound loco from occasionally stalling, especially on switches. All my locos will stall on rare occasions since I'm apparently incapable of cleaning my track, but only the 2-10-0 does it with rather annoying frequency.

There are many, many, skilled modelers here. That is definitely undeniable. I feel however that certain thoughts are being projected on others. I'm glad that they aren't doing baseline generics with no detail because I could never add the detail myself, I don't have the skill that detailing and customizing requires, let alone the money and time!. Bachmann is a company, if they are offering specifics and not those stripped down models that were mentioned, its because the industry has realized that it is more profitable to do so. As for spectrum, yeah, I miss it, though I understand where too much detail makes a loco impossible to service (looking at the 2-10-0 on that one). But my SY 142 is my favorite engine by far and it has a TON of detail. However I feel some aren't giving the new standard line a fair shot. I don't own a 4-8-2 (though I'd love to) but it seems to have less detail than the 2-8-4, a standard line loco.

Just sharing my thoughts.

what I want to know is why the k4 is only returning in N, not HO. just curious.

I still want a C&O greenbriar, which has thus far only been made in brass, however I know that Bachmann currently produces 3 or 4 4-8-4's so I'l concede that it is unlikely.

mhm. I don't know if it would be cheaper than scratch-building (though I lack the skill to do that anyway) But it is most definitely cheaper than kits. Of course it all depends on how you do it, it is much cheaper to print pieces and assemble than it is to print the whole thing at once. It is also cheaper to print, say, two 4"*2" walls than one 8"*2"

Has anybody tried 3D printing structures for a layout? I'm considering it since it would be cheaper by far than buying buildings. I'd have to actually design the buildings unless I found files somebody else had done but considering this semester one of my classes is on Drafting by hand and in AutoCAD (software), creating the files should be completely within reason.

If I may ask, what material did you use for the sides? I might be interested in doing this as I've been looking for mid size passenger cars to use, but didn't want to use "old time" cars.

I gotta say, I've seen people talk about adding weight to tenders, but I never would have believed the difference it makes. my 2-10-0 (my only sound loco) would stall all too often, especially over turnouts, from power loss. I added a tiny bit of weight by gluing some old pinewood derby weights to the upper part of the shell, couldn't have been more than .5 oz, and the thing runs so much better now, even smoother somehow. I also shoved some weight onto the cab roof, scraps so it would have been around .1 oz.

Cool. If you have any little ones around, this could make their day!

Quote from: ebtnut on August 03, 2015, 03:47:18 PM
I carry around a Sony 10 mp digital "pocket camera"  in the car for those times when opportunity pops up.  I also have a Nikon DSLR which I prefer to use for "serious" photo work.  My biggest gripe with the small digitals is that in bright sun you often can't see the back screen well and have trouble framing the photo.  There used to be some of those cameras that also had a rangefinder which was useful in those situations.  My next acquisition is going to be one of those neat little digital video cameras to replace video tape camera. 

I do miss range finders.

Quote from: electrical whiz kid on August 02, 2015, 08:19:55 AM
Not so fast, there; sonny;

I'll be the first to agree with you that the New Haven was the "ugly step-child" that the PC had to take; but before you go and stick your metatarsals into your food chute, check out the goings on in the dark chambers of the Penn Central "executive" bathrooms...Seriously, it took a dite more than the then scrawny little dwarf-like misshapen  New Haven to bring the mighty Penn Central to it's knees.

RIch C.

True, it was not by any means the only cause, I just said that it was a large factor.

Also, Metatarsals into your food chute may be one of the most glorious things I've heard in a while.

Quote from: CNE Runner on August 01, 2015, 10:51:24 AM
Hi again everyone...it has been awhile. I was interested in the 'look' that Trainman203 is trying to achieve. I, too, would like to make the ROA of the Monks Island Railway a bit more 'un-kept'. I especially liked your photos (...and my 'weathering hand' is quivering as well RogerTRA).

Regarding the New Haven RR, I still am annoyed that the 'powers to be' of the New Haven chose to eliminate all rail lines north of Hopewell Junction, NY. After their subsidiary (the Central New England Railway) absorbed my beloved Newburgh, Dutchess & Connecticut RR in the 1920s, it was finally torn up on 1938. All scrap steel was then sent to Japan (and you know the rest).

The New Haven went through several periods of, what I call, 'railroad financial intrigue'. I highly recommend reading the book The New Haven Railroad: Its Rise and Fall by John L. Weller [Hastings House Publishers, 1969]. The author navigates the reader through this complicated (and often illegal) series of events.

All in all an interesting set of topics. I look forward to my next visit to the forum.

Regards,
Ray

I could never really come to like the New haven, the government forced the Pennslyvania and New York Central to take it with them if they were to get their merger approved and, since the NH was completely profitless, it hastened the fall of the Penn Central.

I find it interesting that it is called nickel silver actually, a better name would be Nickel Brass or perhaps Stainless Brass. After all, Brass is Copper and Zinc primarily and NS is a Copper, Zinc, and Nickel Mixture. The Nickel does the same thing chromium does in Stainless Steel, helps it fight corrosion.

I do agree that if you have any intent of making a layout you should go NS. Steel is really only used in train sets.