Quote from: locochuck on September 27, 2008, 12:25:45 PM
ok, the copper wires that you are talking about is the one that on the tender connected to the loco's drawbar holding pin right? and where is the best place to put the decoder? according to my diagram it show to put it at the end of the loco's cab by removing the metal weight and insulator plate. and also what's the best soldering tool to use? i have 1 but it's a does'nt have a pointed tip it has a u shape tip would that be ok to use? i should probably get a smaller type of a soldering tool so it would'nt  get the wires too hot. right?  by the way what is  pcb? and what type of decoder should i get? i don't want one with sounds since i'm deaf. i ' m in the process of getting a zephyr digitrax command control basic set. any info would help. thanks Chuck

Okay, we have a 'freshman' in the house!
While I was doing a little research to give you a better to your questions, I discovered that the 2-6-6-2 was produced before Bachmann started putting electronics in the tender.  Sooo... we have a different ballgame here!  BTW, PCB is short for printed circuit board.

Before you get in over your head:
Put your soldering gun away, it will be your worst enemy while working with delicate electronics.  It IS possible to buy an inexpensive soldering iron in the 20-30 watt range, but I've yet to find one worth buying.
My recommendation is to buy a temperature controlled iron.  They can be had for less than $40, and will be invaluable for installing decoders, soldering track, and many other things around the layout.  I'm not trying to be snobbish here, just fact learned over a lot of years.  Buy the smallest diameter rosin core solder that you can find.  You don't want silver solder, it requires too much heat to work well with electronics.  Buy a container of rosin *NOT* acid flux to tin the wires, rails, and other stuff prior to soldering.  It is available in liquid and paste forms.  I personally use paste because I've had a tin of it for a lot of years, and I'm basically a cheap SOB.

Dig up some small diameter wire to practice your soldering skills.  REALLY small stuff like you might find in an old  mouse cord, or whatever.  Warm your iron, apply a tiny bit of flux to the two parts you will be joining, the use the iron to heat the wire(s) enough that the solder will flow when you touch it to the wire.  Then you can position your wire(s), slide on a piece of heat shrink, and again apply the iron to the wire(s) *just* until the solder melts.  Practice until you feel confident with your new skill.

If I haven't lost you yet, go here for a good set of instructions on installing a decoder in the 2-6-6-2:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/decoderpics/Bachman%20N%20scale%20USRA%202-6-6-2/bachman_n_scale_usra_2_6_6_2.htm  as Taz previously pointed out.

Read the instructions several times before you even think of opening up your engine.  Work carefully, and everything will work out okay!

All the Bachmann steamers seem to use hard-wire decoders that mount in the tender.  Look on your parts diagram, there is a small box at the bottom of the last page that shows where the wires are to be soldered.  Remember to remove the two copper jumpers that are on the edge of the pcb.

For the most part, I can agree with you.  However, the 56' covered hopper is pretty decent.  Toss the trucks in the junk bin, replace them with M-T and add it to your roster.

Your PowerCab has a built-in ammeter. you can use it to determine total amperage used on the track.
Go to "Cab Parameters" by pressing
PROG/ESC button, I think 6 times and the first item is "Ammeter". Select it
"ON" and see what the Power Cab shows for the actual current to the track.

Yep.  Call Bachmann service dept.  You'll pay repairs on an out-of-warranty engine.  As inexpensive as those engines are, it might be worth a bit of browsing through that auction site.

If we're both thinking of the same engine with a split frame and no wires to the motor, the problem HAS to be with the motor.  The motor could have been assembled wrong at the factory, or a previous owner might have completely disassembled the motor and got the magnets backward.  You might end up sending it back to Bachmann...

Most likely, someone has had one (or both) of the engines apart and put the motor in upside down.  Just careully disassemble the 'wrong' engine, and flip the motor 180°, reassemble, and you should be in business.

Add the upcoming  e-zine:
http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/

Now if you were in n-scale...

Mr Bach-man,
You'd probably save a lot of typing if you'd state the decoders' dual mode capability in the DCC FAQ section.

ZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzz....

Dang!  Where's that clairvoyant when you need him?

Guilford Guy escrit:
Ah, the poor B&ML. Kicked out of Belfast, and now selling off all its equipment... 

Claiming ignorance here, what's the story?

Quote from: SteamGene on June 04, 2008, 11:28:44 AM
Has anybody ever seen an unfavorable MR review?
Gene

Sometimes you have to read between the lines.  If you find them glossing over or ignoring something that stands out, that's as good as them waving a red flag.  They are bleeding subscribers badly enough that they don't need to alienate their advertisers too.

For those that are interested, the July '08 Model Railroader magazine has a mostly favorable revue on the Dynamis.

For those that are interested, the July '08 Model Railroader magazine has a mostly favorable revue on the Dynamis.