If your engine ran before adding new track it should run after.  Adding track should not cause the engine to not run. If the track was properly put together.

Check all of your track to track connections and the power strip that connects the power wires to the track.  If you have a volt meter check to see if there is power to the rails.  They are very handy for checking out problems like this and you can get an inexpensive (less than $30) one at RadioShack.

Some engines have a power switch.  Check all the switches on the engine to see if one had been shifted to cut power to the engine.

Chuck

Most of their cars are 1:32, but their cabooses (cabeese) are 1:24.

Chuck

It sounds more like your engine is too big (long) for the curves that you are using.  What is the engine that you are running, and what is the diameter or radius of the track?  Engines that are too long for the curve will bind.  It is also possible that the combination of the cars and engine have too much friction when going through the curves.  Where does it stop?  As soon as the engine enters the curve, or later when the cars start to enter the curve? 

The more information you can give us the more likely we will be able to help you.

My outdoor layout is about 90 feet around.  It ran very nicely with one power feed.  A couple of years ago I added a second, more for insurance than for need.

Chuck

Do you have a volt meter?  If you don't an inexpensive meter for voltage and resistance from RadioShack is a worthwile purchase.  Check the voltage in the track in the area where the engine stops.  That will help you find out whether it is the power or something to do with the train itself.

There has been a lot of discussion of this on My Large Scale.  If you paste the following link into your browser, you will find a discussion on the polarity and how to fix it to our "G gauge"Standard as opposed the NMRA standard he came wired for.

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/17/aft/113445/afv/topic/Default.aspx

It is a very easy fix.

Chuck

Railway Post Offices cars were set up to process mail while the train was moving.  They had an arm that collected a mail sack as the train passed through a small town with out stopping.  Sorted mail for no stop towns along the route would be tossed out the door as the train continued down the track with out stopping as well.

Chuck

The usual consist for the D&RGW was the RPO, Baggage, coaches and on the San Juan the Parlor car.  The combine was used in mixed trains and locals, and was not usually part of the regular trains.

The RPO was always right behind the engine, because it didn't have end doors and crews should be able to move throughout the nonRPO part of the train.  The US Post Office required that there was no access to the RPO from the train (western movies do not count).

Chuck

Yes, years ago we could take anything out of a box and it would couple.  Once we started body mounting couplers for better running and changing to knuckle couplers things didn't always match up.  LGB is no longer the company that sets the standard.  

Bachmann included everything necessary to help us mix and match coupler heights in the
thomas and Percy sets.  Perhaps it would have been better if there were no couplers mounted on the engine or cars and the instructions said here they are set it to your preferred height!  Can you imagine what would have been said then.

Everything is there for the experienced modeler to set their desired height.  This is something that the beginners do not need to worry about.

Chuck

Here in North America there were many different railroads and all were privately owned (until AMTRAK).  Most of the railroads interchanged cars so it became necessary to label and number the cars.  This way they could keep track of what went where and who to charge for moving another company's car on your track.

There was little interchange between narrow gauge railroads, but they put logos on their cars as well.

Chuck

Dave:

I just checked the catalog and both letterings are represented on the Ks. The Flying Rio Grande just says Rio Grande.  The Moffit logo version has the toilet seat and the words Denver Rio Grande and Western.

Chuck

Dave:

Go to the Ghost Depot site:

http://www.ghostdepot.com/rg/

Click on rolling stock and work your way down through the tree to box cars you will see pictures of cars with the "Flying Rio Grande" and the "Moffit Shield" (aka toilet seat).  Once you see them it should be obvious which is which.

I think if you go to the Bachmann catalog and look up the K-27 you will find some with each of the logos.  I thought of this after I started typing this note, so I can't go and check now with out starting this over.

Chuck

Joe:

If you put a diode across one of the gaps on each of your sidings, all you need to do is change the polarity on the track.  You don't need any extra wiring and electric switches.

The diode should be on the east end gap on one track and the west end gap of the other track.  I isolate the entire siding with the gaps and diodes as near to the switches as possible.

Chuck

The only dumb questions are the ones that are not asked and kept to your self. 

There are a lot of knowledgeable people out here who are more than willing to offer an answer.  The only problem is that you might get four different answers, but that is part of the fun.

Chuck

I've had one since shortly after they came out.  I really like it, and I haven't had any problems.  Be sure to lubricate as per the instructions.  It is a different kind of steamer, but if you like mining or logging (ie. backwoods railroads) it is a winner.  I have four Accucraft skeleton cars with logs that I use behind it.

The pistons go like mad, and the engine just crawls around the track.

Chuck

Check the instructions for a master power switch.  I think that there are usually three positions, NMRA, LGB compatable (The non-standard standard polarity most of us use) and off.  It is possible that yours is in the off position.

Chuck N

I have some LGB cars that go back to the late 70's and early 80's that have a metal spring instead of a plastic spring. 

Chuck N