Quote from: Trainman203 on June 11, 2018, 06:29:53 PM
My problem Roger is that I keep thinking I'm funny!  When I'm not 😂!    How do I know I'm not? She tells me!  Every night!😂😂

Well I see the funny side.

Cheers

Quote from: Trainman203 on June 11, 2018, 06:50:10 PM
Scroll down to the 4-4-0 with the cylinders you want

http://myemail.constantcontact.com/Bachmann-HO-Diesels-Starting-At--39-99-INVENTORY-REDUCTION-SALE-.html?soid=1102543198138&aid=qpoNUENN5gQ

Yes!  Exactly.  Ditto for the sandbox, steam dome, cab etc..

Wonder if the parts are availaible, I'll check.

Thanks

Quote from: Trainman203 on June 11, 2018, 02:40:02 PM
You need a balloon stack, a red cowcatcher and a very loud paint scheme to be " Wild West " 😂😂. And maybe a couple of arrows sticking in the wooden cab!😱😂😂

Make no mistake about it, modern engines like you want have been made into " Wild West " caricatures!  Even the T&NO 745, a heavy 1921 2-8-2!  But!  She was paid handsomely to put that outfit on for a movie!  Covered a lot of costs that year.

What you say is all true but that's not what I want.  I want to model a modernised 4-6-0 that would be seen into the 1950s, not a loco from the 1920s.   There were no Canadian locos that looked like that into the 1950s.  What is wrong with that?  It seems to be an issue that I don't want them to look like the 1920s.

Even CPR 4-4-0 No 29, one of the oldest existing CPR locomotive, was modernised with piston valves, new cylinders and other fittings.

Cheers.

Athearn part number ATH60024 for gears.

Look no further than "The Big  Bang Theory" to see how the general public views Sheldon's fascination with model railroading.

Cheers.

Roger T.

Quote from: Trainman203 on June 08, 2018, 10:41:04 PM
It's perfect the way it is for a shortline all the way up to now!

I don't model a short line.  

It looks too "Wild West" for me.

Cheers.

Roger T.

The Bachmann 4-6-0, both the passenger and freight versions are nice models but a bit dated for my 1959 GER.  I can update them by changing the steam dome and sandbox and move the headlight, modify the cab and tender etc..   However, what I would like to do on both versions is to change the slide valves cylinders to piston valve cylinders as it's very unlikely a class one road would not have done this by the late 1930s.

Can anyone point me to a website somewhere that shows how this has been done?  It doesn't have to be the 4-6-0s just a loco with the cylinders being modified.

Thanks/

Quote from: Trainman203 on June 06, 2018, 06:33:13 PM
You sure it's a Russian?  Boiler plumbing all cast on?

100% sure.   

Cheers.

Roger T.

Quote from: Trainman203 on June 06, 2018, 03:55:01 PM
Roger, do whatever it takes to make the CVs I listed be the values I listed.  That's what they need to be. JMRI, Schmem-IRI, whatever.  Get em there and your decs will crawl like ants.

I've never heard of a Sound Value Russian decapod.  Post pictures of yours please. Help clear up my curiosity as to what this really is.

Jon put up a picture of the IHC 2-10-0.  In advance I have to say, only the Russian Decapod will do for me.  Never cared much for those elephantine Pennsy things.

I'm guessing it was a Sound Value, it may not be.  However, compared to my other two Spectrum Russians this one has cast on details, like sand pipes from the sandbox, no wire sanders by the wheels rtc., etc..

I cannot post photos as I do not have a free hosting site since Photobucket decided they wantd paying.

Cheers

Roger T.

Quote from: Trainman203 on June 06, 2018, 01:30:34 PM
Ok, other 2-10-0 issues:

The pony truck wheel has too much side to side play, an attempt to get the engine around sharp radius. The result is that it goes down the track with one side ahead of the other, at an angle that picks at every rail joint / switch point and constantly derails.  Solution:  a spacer on either side of the frame on the axle to encourage straighter tracking. 

The motor control default settings are grossly mis-set.  Try cv 209 - 255 , 210-0 or 1, cv 212 between 175 and 255.  Then adjust the chuff cv 116 to be correct for 4 chuffs/ driver turn around 150 at speed step 10 out of 128 or 4 out of 28.

Do that stuff and the crosshead guide adjustment and you ought to have a great engine.

I'll check out the pony truck on my 2-10-0s but I haven't seen this problem, but you never know.

As for CVs?  Not a clue what they are.  I use JMRI and it's knows all the CVs for me.   

Sadly, the 2-10-0 in general is fraught with problems, both the original Spectrum, of which I have two currently out of service, and the one Sound Value.  This is the one where I followed the advice and moved the crossheads away from the wheels just a hair. 

My two Spectrum 2-10-0s have had minor kitbashing, new sandbox, steam dome, stack, modified tender and a weighted air tank on the pilot deck and weights up under the cab roof and a weight over the front of the tender to counteract the lift of the wires between engine and tender which tend to lift the front wheels of the tender from the track.

Cheers.

Roger T.

Quote from: rogertra on June 05, 2018, 07:53:09 PM

Quote from: Trainman203 on June 04, 2018, 10:58:05 PM
I have 5.  Two are sidelined for different drive train reasons , but three are top grade.  The biggest issue was splaying out the crosshead guides so the crossheads won't snag on the rods, and getting the motor control cv's set right.  They are in daily service  pulling 10-12 car trains.

I'll check out the crossheads and see what happens.  Thanks

Roger T.

Yes!!!!!

I eased the crossheads gentle out from the wheels on both sides and it worked!   I ran the loco through the main track and never hesitated once, not on plain track nor the six switches and one diamond.  When it reached the east end of the yard I ran it into Yard 1 and coupled up to the 14 freight spotted there.  Backed up with them nicely, no issues.   Once clear of the switch, I had the engine shove them back into Yard 1.  Again, no issues.

A simple solution that worked.   

When I get my other two 2-10-0s back into service, I'll check out their crossheads.

Thanks Trainman 203.

Cheers.

Roger T.

The issue with all set track, is a plethora of rail joiners.

For reliable DCC operation, each section of track requires feeders.  However, try adding a pair of feeders to your spur.

Feeders to every section of set track is an unrealistic task as you'd need a pair of feeders for each section of track.  The next solution is to solder you individual section together.  But that ruins the idea of set track.  I use flex track but even then I add feeders to  to each section of flex track.  What I do, on tracks longer than three feet, a length of flex track, is solder two pieces together and send a feed to that now longer section of track.  So I have sections as long as six feet and as short a two or three inches long.  The only track I do not solder is switches.   Hpwever, if I do have contract issues with a switch, I solder feeders to the switch.

Cheers.

Roger T.

Quote from: Trainman203 on June 04, 2018, 10:58:05 PM
I have 5.  Two are sidelined for different drive train reasons , but three are top grade.  The biggest issue was splaying out the crosshead guides so the crossheads won't snag on the rods, and getting the motor control cv's set right.  They are in daily service  pulling 10-12 car trains.

I'll check out the crossheads and see what happens.  Thanks

Roger T.

These engines seems to have had a lot of issues over the years.

One Spectrum of mine the motor turns but the wheels do not.

Next Spectrum, a wire pulled loose from inside the boiler.  As this engine is a pain to take apart, it's currently side tracked.

And now what appears to be a sound value version of the 2-10-0, lacking stand off details etc., the engine runs erratically, hates going through switches where it binds at both the points and the frog.  It has zero pulling power and even on plain track it just stops, while sound keeps on chugging away, hesitates and then maybe crawls for a bit and then speeds up.   If I hold the coupler the wheels do not spin which explains no pulling power.

Suggestions?

Cheers.

Roger T.

Athearn gears, available in packets of six, fit most model axles.  Easy to install on diesels but, of course, steam is more difficult.

That's what our local club members use.

Cheers/

Roger T.