Thanks Chuck!

So then, it's nothing more than a polarity switch.  Once I get it repainted and start putting things back together I'll decide if I want to reinstall the switch(es).

Bob D.

What exactly does the NMRA STD/LARGE SCALE switch inside the smoke box door do?

Is it needed and/or can it be removed?  If removed, do I need to jumper anything?  I'm using an old Aristo-Craft Train Engineer set along with a DC power supply.

Also, I doubt I'll ever use smoke and plan on taking the smoke unit and switch out as well.  Any issues if I do that?

Right now I have the engine stripped down, getting ready for a repaint.  While I'm at it I'm redoing the leading truck mount to one I found elsewhere on the internet (the design does away with having to use the slot as a guide and uses a bent brass pivot arm) and I have filled up the area where the slot is with styrene for strength.

I have also reenforced the area just aft on the chassis (at the 90 degree bend). just behind the rear wheels of the leading truck.

My only "fear" now is that I hope I can remember where all the parts go and in which order they need to go on 

Bob D.

Thanks guys!

Here's one spot I found that has some basic drawings and dimensions of the C16 and C19 classes:

http://www.ghostdepot.com/rg/rolling%20stock/locomotive/drgw1939roster.htm

Bob D.

I've been reading this topic and got curious so...

From what I found on the internet, the C16 is 25.75" long, the C19 is 32" long.  If my math is correct that's a 20% difference in length.

I looked in my copy of Richard Prince's book on the Seaboard Air Line to compare the lengths of 2-8-0s SAL had.  SALs 2-8-0s were a more modern class of engine than the C16/19 engines.

Their 2-8-0s have nothing in common with either the C16 or C19, but the difference in lengths is what prompted me to post.

The SAL class H 2-8-0s were approx 61 feet long from pilot to rear coupler (61 ft=30.5" in 1/24 scale)

SAL class H2 2-8-0s were approx 71 feet long from pilot front to rear coupler (71 ft=35.5" in 1/24 scale).

Again, if my math is correct, that's a 14% difference in length.

The heights were almost the same for the SAL engines.

I guess what I'm saying is that differences in length would be normal, different classes = different sizes.

Does anyone know what the actual lengths were of the prototype C16 and C19?  I tried, but didn't find anything.

Bob D.

I opened my Annie I recently bought and it doesn't have a baffle, I'll probably put one in it once I get back working on it.

Bob D.

Try putting a baffle around the speaker to help with the sound, use something like the cardboard core from a roll of tape (or roll your own out of thinner cardboard than on a roll of tape).  I know this worked on an O scale engine I have.  A bit of hot glue to hold it in place and you're good to go!

BobD.

Update on my last post.

I had 2 power supplies from my daughters old laptop computer, both 18.5vdc, 3.5amp PSs.

I hooked one to my ART-5470 Train Engineer (polarity has to be correct), set the mode switch to PWC and the engine started nice and slow, with a few presses of the FAST button it slowly got up to speed.  Pressing the SLOW button eventually brought it to a stop.  I also tried the Linear setting but didn't like the sudden increases in speed, at least compared to the PWC (the instructions say not to use it with a non-Aristo-Craft engine, but it ran fine).

These PSs are the typical small bricks you would see on any laptop, not sure what they cost  but I had them in my parts box for a few years now.

Now to put it on some track!

Bob D.

I got the engine back together, without any leftover parts 

I wanted to use the Aristo-Craft TE but I need a 16-24vdc power supply, the computer power supplies don't put out enough voltage to make the TE unit kick in.

I wanted to make sure the engine ran so I simply clipped the computer PS wires to the pony truck and turned on the power.

It seemed to run fine and had good chuff from the speaker (once I located a 9volt battery).  The headlight came on, but I forgot to swap the leads to test the reverse light on the tender.

The engine was obviously dropped at some point, but I repaired everything I found broken.  Also, the black lead to the pony truck was burnt through, so I replaced both wires while I had it apart.  I disconnected the smoke unit, probably never wire it back to the switch.

I may eventually take it back apart and paint it but right now I have other projects (O scale) I need to finish.

Oh, if it isn't already apparent, I got away from a starter set and going towards individual components.  Once I get the engine like I want it I'll start looking for indoor track.

Bill,

I have 3 computer PSs, the one I rigged up a while back is rated for 12vdc and 10 amps, even put an ON/OFF switch on the case.  Not sure what the other 2 are rated for but I might take a look at them too.  These should be enough to get the engine moving.

Bob

Got my Annie in yesterday, and I thought O scale was big  

Bill, the headlight was simply not snapped in and the plug on the rear doesn't appear to be an issue.  The piece of frame that holds the cow-catcher in place was broken, but I used some MEK to glue the stand-offs back on and it should hold.  The stand-off that the screw under the pilot truck screws into was also broken, but MEK fixed that also.

Right now I have it apart.  I hope I can get it all back together, it might be 3 weeks before I can re-assemble it (my son-in-law is coming home today from Sicily for a couple of weeks).

I have a bunch of questions, but first off is what to use for power.

I have an Aristo-Craft 55470 DC Train Engineer Wireless Set, left over from my HO days.  It's rated for 10 amps, but I don't have a power supply to hook to it, any recommendations?

Would a power supply out of a computer work?  It should, the couple I kept have 5 and 12 volt outputs, will have to check the current rating.

Bob

Thanks again Bill!

I went ahead and bought it.  It'll be my only G-scale/large scale piece right now and be put on display.  I've been thru apprenticeships for drafting, machinist, and electronics, hopefully I won't need to use those skills when it arrives LOL!

My main focus is in O scale, that's my layout anyway.  But I do have my old HO stuff and have always wanted to get a G-scale engine and a Seaboard Air Line boxcar.  I may eventually get some track and other cars to run.  Who knows, I may sell off all my stuff ang whole hog G 

BobD.

Thanks Bill, I'm on the prowl 

Do any of the current starter sets come with the anniversary (metal components) engine?

Thanks guys, just what I needed!