Okay... you are scaring me.  Pneumonia twice?  I always wondered if steam locomotive engineers  traveling in/on some Steam locomotive with the wind blowing in their face catch pneumonia more frequently than a Diesel locomotive engineer.   
So on that note, if you have a steam locomotive on your model layout, switch it to a diesel so you will stop scaring me by getting sick again... winter is coming so stay warm, and please take care of yourself by staying off those open window steam locos, even if it is on your model train layout.  With the diesel locomotive you can move about without catching the wind in your face...and that includes the model layout.
My prayers are with you to stay healthy. 

No-one is too old for a job.  I maybe just recently retired, but it's not health issues that you need to worry about.  Its having to do all the traveling that may be involved.  Not to mention having to move closer to the Bachmann office so the new boss can keep an eye on you.   

Talking bout cattle crossings using old train rails, then traveling through the back roads of New Mexico, you'll find quite of few cattle crossings made of old train rails.

If what "BobZ's" request that you do doesn't solve the problem.  Then try this.

Since you indicated that you purchased some EZ track (assuming that this track was purchased from someone other than being brand new).  Bachmann makes a gapped track Model 44597.  From your U-tube video it looks like that the section of track could be a gapped section of track.  It looks the same as the standard model track (model 44511).

Once the locomotive passed over the gap, it may loose its connectivity.  One would think that that should not occur, which then one could conclude that there are two of these gapped track on your layout.  Therefore, check all of your track to determine if all the track is of the standard model EZ 44511 and not the gapped model 44597.

Note:  The gapped track rail will have a small gap in the center of the 9-inch EZ track, again this is model 44597.
Also, the video didn't show the locomotive traveling in the opposite direction with the same effect.  If the locomotive travels in the opposite direction satisfactorily, then there is another issue presenting itself.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, this does help a lot.  Much clearer explanation than what I was able to find.

Interesting,  Okay, now adding to the list is: "stationary decoders".  Again I am assuming that a stationary decoder is the same as a mobile decoder.   

I got the "motor decoder" name from several website hobby shops, but again they were brand names like digitrax, and soundtraxx, etc., but the hobby shops states "motor decoder".  Go figure?

Quotetake a black magic marker and run a line on one of the two wires so I can keep them oriented to pos and neg.

I believe I acknowledged your idea in another post, but I also modified your black magic marker by using two color system.   

Bachmann green wires for track controllers, which have 3 wires, I use a white paint marker on one side.   For the track power I do exactly what you have done.   Believe me, it's been a time saver. .    ...Again thanks for this great tip.

I've run into a problem that needs clarification.  My search for decoders to modify my existing DC diesel locomotives (no steam locos on my list).  I ran into different models of decoders.
A) Mobile decoders
B) Motor decoders
C) Sound decoders

I have several Bachmann Decoders Model 44916, and 44914 but there is no mention of which decoder they are.  I assume currently that they are B) motor decoders.   I am also assuming that A) mobile decoder and B) motor decoder are the same.  But are they?

So can someone please inform me of the differences between the three decoders mentioned.  Google and this forum's search didn't help with a decent (common sense/layman's) answer.

Being late to the conversation; I'd like to sum this all up with the following;
(let me know if I got it correct or incorrect)

DC Controller:
this refers to the "speed controller" with the rotating knob and direction switch.

Transformer:
 step down AC house power to voltages suitable for running model trains.

Model Controller:
contains a transformer, but it also has a rectifier to convert AC to DC, along with circuitry to vary the DC voltage powering the model trains.

Power Pack:
an electric transformer "wall wart" that plugs into the outlet and generates/supplies power to the speed controller powering the model trains.

Controller:
controls the train but does not supply power.  "Power packs"/"wall packs" supply power but does not control the train.  Put the two together, and you have a working model railroad/train set.

device like the E-Z Command is also considered a "controller", giving control of speed, direction, and DCC functions.  It is described, as such because they control the train, but do not generate power on their own.
---------------------------------------
Now that this was brought up, maybe someone can help clarify another issue...regarding decoders (see Forum topic: "Difference between mobile decoder and a motor decoder")

This is great news.   I can now keep this old analog (my work horse) version and perform that conversion to DCC.   My work bench isn't there yet, but this one will be added to the mountain of maintenance updates already in my cue.

Thanks for the images on just how it should look.

Sorry, guys, my wife made me go on vacation, so I didn't catch this one.
Terry, The two controllers (power supplies) that you have, can you provide the model number of each one.   

The reason I'm asking is that Bachmann doesn't do a good job on distinguishing the DC controller, their DCC controller (if there is such a thing), unless it's the DCC command controller.
I've jump through hoops, just like you just did, trying to keep these controllers (power supplies) straight.  I'm going to surmise that both of your power supplies have the same model number, and they are DC only, not AC as you mentioned.

Bach Man if you're reading this, please provide your take on this too, if any.


P.S. your video (U-tube) was pretty good, I've gotta learn how to do that.

QuoteDesert Rose used to have some illustrated tutorials on coupler conversions, but they seem to have been taken down.

Yea, I was putting those tutorials to good use, until they disappeared.  I'm thinking there was a copyright issue.   But does anyone know where or what pamphlet/book/magazine that it could be found on?

Okay, Here's the question.
 I have this very good Switcher, but I've moved my layout to DCC. Has anyone any experience converting this very short switcher from DC to DCC?   If so, can you inform me that there is enough room under the cover/in the chassis to support installing a DCC decoder?  I've contemplated using an N scale decoder, but unsure if that would fit too.



If there isn't enough room, which I suspect, then does anyone know what hobby store, manufacturer that makes this model in DCC?   Bachmann's 2023 catalog doesn't have this model in analog or DCC. 

Well, since no one responded with anything to share, I'll fill in my research on this B-line construction equipment.

I found to my surprise that Bachmann dabbled in producing some construction equipment in HO scale sometime way back when I was still a workaholic or still in school.  It took me awhile to decide whether to purchase this model scraper because I really thought that Bachmann did not produce or go into an agreement with Shinsei to market this model of equipment.  In other words, I thought it may be counterfeit merchandise using the Bachmann name.

So, on a self-imposed dare, the model I purchased is "the scraper" which is quite unique.the back and side of box
It has working parts which wasn't expected,

with the bucket closed
with the bucket open

and finally, it's actually a Mitsubishi model
There you have it. 
I now have for my layout, a Mitsubishi and Caterpillar scrapers.  I don't know of any other HO scale scrapers.  I know that John Deere, Case, Komatsu, Terex and K-Tec actually manufacture scrapers but I haven't seen them in HO models.   

(By the way if you want a closer look just click on the image)

I've come to a dilemma that maybe some different perspectives can help.
I've collected over the years quite a few incandescent lamps, that is, from train signals, billboards, street to building lighting.     I've also collected a few (not many) of the LED lighted buildings and billboards.  The power supplies to them is not an issue that I can see so far.   Problem is some incandescent lamps do not look as realistic as the LED versions.  I also thought about just using the incandescent lamps in the Plasticville and other buildings only.  This way you don't see the lamp only the light from that incandescent lamp.  Therefore, make all of the train signals, streetlights and all other outside lights LED's.

After looking at Sheldon's images (Sheldon's Layout started by Grumpy468, July 07, 2020, of item 158- Jan 21, 23 12:26:06 am, image 5) of the LEDs on his street, the incandescent lamps that I have are vintage 1950's looking large and quite dull.  They are more park lighting than street lighting.  I kinda like the downward facing lights from the poles, the incandescent lamps shine everywhere.
Sheldon's illuminated streetlights.   (Believe that these are LED's)
https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php?topic=36947.15 

So, which is better, use both as mentioned above, or totally move all lighting to LED?