Wheels back to back standard: 1.575 inches.

 Spectrum Forney
Lenght: 20" coupler to coupler, 18" footboard to footboard
Width at cilinders: 4  3/8"
Height to top of spark arrester: 6  5/8"
Weight: 7 pounds 2 ounces

Good Sunday morning to everyone.
I am coming around to wanting quality sound but I still think the loco should cost more than the sound!

Soundtraxx Tsunami Steam TSU-1000 Sound Decoder Light Logging.
Is it possible to install this on a Bachmann Spectrum G scale 36 ton Shay? If so are there instructions on how? I suppose a speaker and SOUNDTRAXX 810038 STEAM EXHAUST CAM KIT are necessary? What else would be necessary? Would this installation be advisable?

Soundtraxx Tsunami Steam TSU-1000 Sound Decoder D&RGW K-Class --or-- Bachmann Industries Plug and Play module for locomotive car meant for small gauge.
Is it possible to install these on a G scale  LGB car? If so are there instructions on how? I suppose a speaker and SOUNDTRAXX 810038 STEAM EXHAUST CAM KIT are necessary for the TSU-1000? What else would be necessary? Would these installations be advisable?

The deed is done, I've fixed my Swanee River Special and my Spectrum 36 ton Shay this weekend, the Shay with a tiny c shaped plastic bit I cut out of a black plastic top and a screw, I still have to glue a small crack and would like advice as to what glue to use. The Swanee River Special was easy thanks to Loco Bill, I did not panic or lose any screws (not in my head or in the loco) I run it a few times and noticed something unusual in its appearance,  then it dawned,  the air tanks were on top of their covers, I had put them on the wrong sides, fortunately I didn't have to take it apart again just unscrew and screw in the right place. It kept derailing at first, I checked for gaps in the track and it improved, I made it pull 11 cars, no problem, I did notice that the middle wheels don't touch the rails, I checked with the damaged chassis and exactly the same thing, the middle wheels are just a bit high hardly noticeable but they do not touch the rails.
There is a Bridgewerks Magnum SR series 5 amp transformer and controller on ebay, its up to $127 today, I wonder how much one can pay for it, looks like what I need? Tomorrow I'll ring the man Loco Bill recommended. I won an auction for a little train set on ebay today, like with the Suwannee River Special I won it without really trying to, I placed very low maximum bets, this one was absurdly low priced, it's supposed to be almost new, includes a power unit, rails, loco, tender, and three cars, all for $26, The loco and tender are blue and have W&ARR printed on the sides, they look Bachmann but I'm not sure.

I hope someone reads this, if not I'll post it in a more recent thread. Replacing the chassis is not as straightforward as it looks. Bachmann did not bother to include instructions or the screws, Il use the screws from the old chassis but unfortunately 2 are missing.  Hope one of you can post some brief instructions on the right order and procedure for changing the chassis. Thank  you.

About my Shay, yes it is the cap ring broken in half,  I decided to make the missing half from a piece of black plastic , the result is not perfect but ok. When screwing it onto the cylinder it is attached to I discovered that that too is cracked. Not a big problem but I need to know the best type of glue for Bachmann plastic. Also if there is a way of bonding different types of plastic to Bachmann plastic. Thank you in advance.

I'm closing my eyes, I see the expression of astonishment on your neighbor's cows , and the meadows, and the sky, and the children and I hear that whistle blowing. I see  the flowers, mostly the flowers. What a picture! Please don't change anything.

Thanks,  will do.

 Can someone please recommend a 5 to 10 amp simple power supply with velocity control and a harmless to model trains type of electricity new or used  for under $100 and suggest where I might be able to buy it?

I know the opinion I am about to express will not be very popular and even sound disrespectful to the real experts and to some manufacturers, so first let me say I admire all you people tremendously and I really like this forum. Still I am aware of being new not only to the forum but the world of G and as such I am expected to mess up occasionally which I naturally do. I don't like expensive sound systems on trains, I've really tried to like them, I've listened carefully to Phoenix and Dallee and the more I listen the more I feel like it sounds like a little toy with a recording of a big train inside. Like a Swatch sounding like Big Ben, I prefer the simple shuff of my $30 Bachmann locomotive,  after listening and seeing videos of Shays with veery expensive sound setups I saw a video of a garden railroad in Poland , a 36 ton  Shay and five or six passenger cars without inbuilt sound , you hear so clearly the sound the toy train makes as it passes by and it sounds so real because it is real, the clicking sound of the imitation engine is great. Like clockwork, and the shrill of the wheels against the track is superb. The synchronization is of course perfect and you hear when the cars shake from a bumpy track. I am very much into music, I'm sure you all know that distorting or rather enhancing a musician's studio performance is old hat, for years studios, even home studios have been able to with music software record an out of tune singer singing out of rithm with a lousy voice and transform this in minutes into a recording of a singer in perfect tune, perfect timing and a beautifull voice. This being possible I'm sure it is possible to amplify "live",  the sounds a toy train makes transforming them  instantly as they sound into sounds that resemble real train sounds, without exaggerating, retaining some of the toy sound. Like with music software control in the sound of the toy train the amount and type of reverb to emulate different environments and to balance in the mix the proportion of pure toy sound and distortion (or enhancement) .  That I think I would pay for gladly, and am sure could be achieved at no more cost than the sound systems available. Or does this already exist?

Very good point, the minute hand is very slow, I had not thought about that. I'll have to try till I find a train speed slow enough,  perhaps increasing  the distance between the magnet reed switch  and the magnet will help?  I am reading about  RR Concepts and Dallee Electronics, I had no idea, very interesting.

What does DCC stand for?
Your abbreviation search returned 198 meanings:   Data Compression Conference  , -- Digital Command Control, --   Dynamic Currency Conversion, Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders, Delgado Community College,  Dhaca City Corporation,  Digital Content Creation, Digital Curation Center, Dunedin City Council,  Durham County Council, Distributed Checksum Clearinghouse, Data Coordinating Center, Dallas Christian College, ........http://www.acronymfinder.com/DCC.html

I use a spell check,  I'm honestly blaming it for doing something only Kevin Strong could do , turning a gondola into a lagonda, and while on the subject of gondolas before I started with model trains a gondola for me was only the beautifill and pohivitivly expensive, extreamly romantic Venetian canal gondolier driven canoo that my wife and I did not ride, instead we saw Venece from the  Vaporetto, the venetian canal public transport , also romantic very cheap , sounds like a chu chu train and you dont feel like you are throwing your money straight into the canal, like the few turists that go for the gondola. Why a log carring train car has the same name is beyond me.   Although I suppose there is a remote resemblance.

I don't want remote control, I want my train to automatically  leave the station every half hour punctually from 11am to 10pm, perfectly synchronized and preferable driven by  a wall clock , go around the track once ,  whistle a few times on the way , and stop gently exactly on the spot where it started. With my nonexistent knowledge of electricity and wanting to spend as little as possible to achieve this goal, this is what I have been planning: Buy an electric clock mechanism and a dial, build a case for it, place a minute hand inside the clock as well as one outside, attach a small magnet to the inside minute hand and two sensors with cables placed behind the dial , one directly at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock . This will be attached to a small simple hopefully inexpensive electrical board that will switch power on the track when the cable sensor is very near a magnet. In the same way I will place a sensor cable  by a rail where the train must stop so that a magnet hanging from a car will send a signal thru the cable sensor to the board to switch power of the track. Possibly another magnet and cable sensor will make the train slow down a lot before it stops. The 11 am to 10 pm schedule I can easily achieve by plugging the power supply to a  simple wall timer.   Does  this make sense? Are there simpler ways to achieve this keeping cost down to a minimum? And the most important question.  Is there an inexpensive electrical board I can buy readymade that will suit this purpose?

The confusing part is that many power supplies don't specify Amps, or PWR or DC or DCC, or linear voltage. Frankly it looks that I must improve my  knowledge of electricity before trying to buy a power supply, at the moment I do not understand the terminology. 5 amps however from what I have been able to understand from your valuable advice,  seems sufficient for me at the moment, since I will not be running more than one train on one setup with one locomotive at a time, probably max one lighted passenger car with 5  lagondas, sound yes, no slopes and the biggest locomotive I have is my   Spectrum  36 ton Shay. My present power supply is a 1 amp LGB.