I used a 1015, but to get sufficient clearance I did not use the mounting screw on the coupler box but *carefully* ACC'd into place  with the coupler protruding just a littler more than it would normally. You need to dry fit it and fiddle with it a bit to get the correct position. There are quite a few installations where I had to ACC the coupler box in place for one reason or other. The key is to use as little ACC as possible and apply it very carefully to the locomotive and not the coupler box. Too much ACC in the wrong place and you end up with a coupler that is welded solid. (Do not ask how I know this ..)

Use Micro-Trains #1128 for this loco. Simply pry off and discard the rapidos along with the coupler boxes (the MT's come with new coupler boxes to fit in place of the original ones, they simply snap back into place). Simple follow the instructions included with the MT couplers and in less than an hour you will be good to go...

The F7's use a Micro Trains # 1128 coupler, it is a very easy conversion..

I have been following this thread of and on for the last few months, so maybe a dozen or so of the "over 2600 views" belong to me.  However, I have absolutely no interest in buying a K4 at any price. So that 2600+ figure is a highly unscientific sample, (sort of  like the polls one finds on the websites of some news organizations which are then loudly touted as "the desire of the population"). The determining factor is the number of units that will actually be SOLD AT A PRICE CLOSE TO FULL RETAIL.
In fact, I would love to see a Russian Decapod as was announced a few years ago and then cancelled due to "lack of a small motor". I would purchase at least 4 of those; however, I would not purchase 400. To recover the cost of tooling a certain number of units must be sold at an amount fairly close to list price in order for the model to be profitable. I seem to recall that when the Decapod was released in HorriblyOversized scale that not too long after they were first released they could be gotten at Fire Sale prices from various sellers. I doubt that B'mann made a profit on that one, which is why I am fairly sure I will never see one in N scale. There are several manufacturers out there, and NONE has shown any interest in a K4 . I wonder why that would be.  Has anyone noticed that Walthers (LifeLike, Proto2K) appears to have effectively exited the N Scale market? Anyone care to guess as to why that could be? (hint: I picked up four  $200   2-8-4 Berkshires for around 70 Bucks each last year, I wonder how much money they made on those??)

They are definitely power routing.....

You need to trim the back of the coupler pocket on the Z-scale coupler. Tricky but doable....

Exactly. That is all you need to do. Sorry to be so roundabout in explaining it...

Quote from: crawler182 on June 29, 2010, 11:04:30 PM
t would i tap into it and run extra wires to the extra accessory's?

Yes. that would exactly be the way to do it


" the problem is with too many accessory's wouldn't the circuit keep breaking and the track would lose to much power?"

Since you are unlikely to throw more than two turnouts at the same time (in the case of a cross-over), that should not be a problem. If you DO notice a drop in train speed when you throw a switch. THAT would be the time to consider going to two separate power packs, one for accessories and one for the train....

Quote from: crawler182 on June 30, 2010, 02:46:34 PM
thanks, im extending my layout by adding 2 siding and maybe making the oval, twist and turn a little, nothing super super big, im more confused on how to wire the accessory's into another power pack

Oh, you're fine in that case, you won't need any extra track feeders*, just make sure all your rail joiners are tight (they conduct current and are the culprit in the case of power loss more often than one would think..)

*do keep in mind if you are using E-Z track turnout that they are power routing and require feeders at the point end..

Also, check out www.nscale.org , the people there are always ready to help you with ANY question you might have.

Quote from: crawler182 on June 30, 2010, 02:24:16 PM
okay thanks, but without the controller how would i wire the accessory's into the power pack??
i understand fully on what everyone is trying to tell me and i appreciate it very much

Just use the Accessory/AC terminals on the pack you are going to use for your switches and ignore the track terminals on that one, use the Variable DC for your track and ignore the Accessory/AC terminals on the other one... ..

EDIT: I just re-read you original question. You would wire multiple accessories in parallel......
  Incidentally, you do not need more current (amps) due to the amount (or length) of track, although extra track feeder wires would help, but you WOULD need extra amp capacity based on how many locomotives you plan to run at the same time (i.e. double heading)....

ABC is correct. all you really need is an AC power suorce. I used a doorbell transformer from my local Home Despot..

Although if you are planning to expand your layout, I would, in your position, seriously consider getting a QUALITY DC power supply (such as one from MRC), since train set power packs tend to be rather low-end in terms of performance and use that to control your trains. You will find that you have much better speed control - especially  low-speed control with a good solid state power pack (as well as some other goodies, such as Momentum and Brake, depending on the power pack you get). The one that came with your train set will be more than adequate to for the control of accessories, since you will more than likely never throw more than two switches simultaneously...
Now, if you are planning to add lighting to your layout (which also usually operates on AC), THAT is a whole different story...

Quote from: crawler182 on June 30, 2010, 12:28:02 PM


*edit* instead of using a power pack to run  the accessory's through d/c current could i run them through a battery?

Absolutely NOT. the solenoids in the switch motors require AC to operate.

It sounds more complicated than it actually is. Simply disconnect the  Accessory wires from the AC terminal of your current power pack, leaving the Track wires (DC) in place and the Accessory terminal screws unused. Connect the two wires you just removed from your old power pack to the "Accessory" or AC terminals of the new pack, leaving the Track (DC) terminals - if any - unused.
There is absolutely no need or reason to hook both the switches/turnouts and the Track wired to the same power pack. Accessories such as switches are 12-16 volt constant AC and your locomotive/track runs on variable DC (nominally 12 volt max). The two are totally separate (although electrically the transformer in the power pack supplies both the AC current to the accessories and, via rectifier diodes and some type of rheostat or solid state current regulator, DC current to the track. Hence the drop in locomotive speed when switches are thrown, especially in the case of low-end power packs such as supplied with train sets.)
I hope that clears up any confusion...

Quote from: crawler182 on June 29, 2010, 11:24:44 PM
so you mean one power source on the speed controller and track, and another for all the accessory's?
how would i do that? my track, so far a 4 switches for turnouts and stuff but how would i wire them into a separate power supply?

Simply take the wires now going to the "Accessories" terminal of your current pack and attach them to the "Accessories" or A/C terminal of the new power pack.
In fact,  if you are planning on expanding your layout, it would not be a bad idea if you were to replace the "train set" power pack that came with your set with a larger power pack, such as one from MRC. You  can use the old power pack to power your switches (I use a 16 volt A/C doorbell transformer for that purpose) That way you will have no power (i.e. speed) drop to your track when you operate a turnout...

Quote from: ghiii on June 28, 2010, 09:02:07 PM
A ten wheeler would make my year. I'll start with three of them.

I second that. And I'm still hoping for the Decapod....