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Messages - trainmaster971

#46
HO / Re: Russian 2-10-0 Decapod
February 16, 2009, 08:20:28 PM
I applied a light oil, as I always do, as soon as I got it out of the box.  I have since made a few more trips around the layout and the noise has decreased some but is still there.  Total run time now is about 35 minutes with no cars attached.
#47
HO / Russian 2-10-0 Decapod
February 16, 2009, 07:47:00 PM
I just received my 2-10-0 Decapod, model #81706, from The Favorite Spot. Out of the box it ran but would stall.  When it did I moved it sideways on the track and it started up and run.  After a few trips around my 3.94 scale mile mainline it quit the stalling but there is a slight noise at a mid range speed (30-40 scale mph). At slow speed and highballing there is no noise. Is the noise common or does it decrease with time?
#48
HO / Re: Prr T1
February 16, 2009, 07:18:09 PM
I also have the Broadway Limited Pennsy T1.  I have found the 8 pin connector to be very fragile.  Unless you are very skilled at repairs it is best to return it to BLI. They replaced a connector on another loco that I have from them.
#49
HO / Installing aftermarket sound modules
February 11, 2009, 09:14:39 AM
Today is my 63rd birthday and my son gave me a Bachmann DCC equipped 2-8-4 Berkshire.  I now have it and a DCC equipped GS-4, both without sound.  I want to add sound modules to them but am not familar with DCC. I operate the old DC way.  Do you have to remove the DCC module to install a sound module?
#50
HO / Re: tsunami
February 10, 2009, 05:05:36 PM
I installed the MRC steam sound unit in a couple of my IHC DCC ready locos.  The combined current draw was such that they had a difficult time climbing a 2.5% grade with a moderate consist. Without the MRC units installed they breezed up the grade with no problem.  On level sections, with the sound unit installed,  they seemed to be ok.  You will need to sync the chuff yourself with the handheld unit.  The sound is ok.
#51
HO / Adding sound to DCC equiped locos
February 10, 2009, 11:59:46 AM
Mr. Bachmann,
I, and many other modelers, have new DCC equiped locos and would like to be able to upgrade them with sound modules.  The systems that are available tend to require more technical knowledge than we have. Is it possible for Bachmann to provide the sound modules, at a resonable price, for the current line of Bachmann locos? It should then be simply a plug and go application.
#52
HO / Re: 4-8-4 Northern Lifetime warranty
February 10, 2009, 11:39:31 AM
If you are the original owner and the loco is no longer made then Bachmann will exchange it for an updated version for $30.00 instead of the $15.00 for repair.  I had an older GS-4 that blew a driver and they replaced it for me. Contact customer service and check if they will do the same with the loco that you have.
#53
HO / Re: Add on sound for DCC Steam Locos
January 05, 2009, 02:59:34 PM
I have both a MRC 2400 and a MRC 2500.  Plenty of power and amperage available. The MRC sound unit cuts the loco down to where it barely makes it up grade with its consist.  Without the MRC sound unit it requires about 75% throttle to make the grade.
#54
HO / Add on sound for DCC Steam Locos
December 12, 2008, 05:05:16 PM
I have just received a new GS-4 with DCC on-board without sound.  It will be operated on a straight DC layout. Is there an aftermarket distributor that has a plug in sound unit that would work.  I have tried MRC sound units for DCC ready locos with unsatisfactory results. They drew too much amperage resulting in insufficient power available for the motor.
#55
HO / Re: Removing lettering from Spectrum 4-6-0
November 25, 2008, 07:35:00 PM
If you are very careful you can use auto brake fluid to remove the painted on lettering. Apply the brake fluid with a small brush and let it sit for about 5 minutes then wash it off with water and use the small brush to lightly rub the lettering. You may have to repeat this two, three or more times.  Do not rush it.  After the lettering has been removed and the tender re-lettered you will need to apply a thin coat of dull coat.  I have done this on several tenders and loco cabs and once the dull coat is applied it looks factory.  Again be careful and go slow.
#56
HO / Re: 4-8-4 NYC Niagara
November 25, 2008, 07:24:57 PM
I checked the drive wheels and am unable to verify alignment as they are very sloppy in the frame.  No bushings. I had a 4-8-4 Daylight that had a slipped driver which I repositioned. It progressed rapidly to a split driver and had to return it to Bachmann.  I am afraid that is what is happening with this loco. I need to clarify the weights I noted for my cars.  They are for my passenger cars.  My freights are 40 footers and are weighted to 3 1/4 ounces instead of the 4 oz recommended by NMRA.

Maybe if the Bach Man is looking in he could give some insight into this lopeing problem. I would hate to relinquish this loco to the service area forever.
#57
HO / Re: 4-8-4 NYC Niagara
November 24, 2008, 06:39:15 PM
A 2.5% grade is no challenge for most HO scale locos.  I have a proto 2-8-4 (16 cars), BLI 2-10-4 (17 cars), BLI Cab Forward (26 cars), IHC 2-10-2 (16 cars) and an IHC 2-8-4 (15 cars) and they all have been operated for 5 or more years on this layout with no problems.  I have had older Bachmann locos that have split their driver with loads less than these . That is why I was wondering if this newer model had the same problem. My freight cars run light at 4.75 oz each instead of the 6 oz suggested by NMRA.
#58
HO / Re: 4-8-4 NYC Niagara
November 24, 2008, 05:51:30 PM
This loco had been in storage for a while.  The lope and tick developed after I oiled and lubed it when it was brought out and put in use again. It typically is at the head end of a 16 car freight train running on a large, 4.1 scale mile main line, layout with the longest grade being 23 feet at 2.5%.
#59
HO / 4-8-4 NYC Niagara
November 24, 2008, 04:25:08 PM
This is a 4-8-4 NYC Niagara, model #11305, that has developed a noticeable lope and tick when running.  Is this a common problem that developes or is it a sign that it is about to break its drive axel?  If it is typical can it be fixed? Thanks for any info you can provide.