19" r track is 15 degrees. Divide a circle (360 degrees) by 15, and you get 24 pieces make a circle.

Forgot to word it to ask if anyone knew what product they might have used for the IHC passenger cars

Being that I do CB&Q, not too many Passenger cars in the lower price range are around. I did get a 3 car set on EBAY, new cars, but the trucks are really garbage. Has anyone every upgraded the wheelsets or the whole trucks, and if so any reccomendations?
One of the cars wobbles like a duck! And they all have problems passing through the Atlas 60 degree crossings (2 in a row) that I have.

Thanks

Tim

My Word - for any store to sell a product that doesnt work, and not take it back is a just not a kind thing to do - period. I would either never go back, or, at the very least, demand a full test of the product before purchase.
I guess I am lucky to live in an area where my LHS stores would take it back, including my primary mail-order place in MD - MB Klein, who even paid the return postage.

Tim

An EZ track 30 matches up with the EZ Standard switch as shown in the layout picture previous. An Atlas 30 also matches up with the Atlas standard snap switch, but needs the 10 degree 18"r curve added first. The action is that a two track line can have a siding start from the outer track, cross the inner track and then to siding.
The figure 8 would have to be a strange one, with extra curves to get the righe degree match, normally an 8 uses a 90, or sometimes a 60.

I love my 2-10-2 but it likes 24"r best. You can hear it making noise on the 22"r curves. But as ACY said,, for the nth time, some will run on 18"r - no rhyme or reason. I happened to get one that wont.

Welllll- if you want to try it, EZ track 18" radius curve comes in a 10 degree piece. Using RRTrak rail designer, it lines up perfect with the EZ #6  switch. The 10 degrees maybe so small that it doesnt throw too much of a problem in that its 18"r. Justa thot!

Do you mean a restock? These have been around for quite some time now, at least 2 years.

Hello - I just had this with my DCC 2-10-2 - if you run it slow, mine stopped when the front tender truck hit the frog. Problem - there was no continuity from the Steam Engine + side, back to the Tender + side.
This can be the engine wheels pickup bad, or the tender wheel pickup bad, or, like mine was, it was in the little plugs for the wires between the engine and tender.
Take it back to where you got it for a swap out, quicker than dealing with Bachmann, this would be a warranty issue.
Mine went from stalling, to having the headlight flash 11 times (motor crossed), and it would no longer run forward. Bachmann replaced it as my hobby shop had no more of the engine in stock.
Tim

I found Xcad Xtrak library - hit file, parameters. But they dont have EZ Track

modeltrainstuff.com (M B Klein) has a CB&Q FT Diesel DCC on board for $29

I thought I have seen stuff about Xcad, in here, and about a free program. I tried a google search, but wasnt sure of what I found, especially when all the gongs went off in the PC, so I stopped.
I am finding that RR Track does not seem to be calibrated correctly, as the plan that is made in the PC doesnt seem to use the same track pieces IRL. Hence my misalligned curve. Also after several requests, with no response from them, still no #4 Bachmann EZ switch added to the track library.
Does Xcad work any better, and are pieces up to date, and also what is the correct link?

Thanks - Tim

Thanks again - so I found part of the trouble, well, most of the trouble, it didnt particularly like one curve, so I decided to switch the four 22's around on that curve, found out that the curve was off by 3/4"! Meaning the straight leg on the layout side was 3/4" too short. Added in a 2" in stead of the 1.25, and she stopped going off the track on that curve.
Loosened up the lead a bit, all wheels seem pushed on as they should be, so we shall see. The sound sure is great in this engine.
And THANKS to Bachmann for their kind assistance in sending me a replacement.

True - will also look at the drivers, I saw an old post in search finally.

I did not have enough faith to buy the #5 or #6 as the last time I had gone EZ, I had nothing but total derails on most of those switches, all due to no tension on the movable points, which still has several posts regarding same problems. I tried the #4's as they were all new, and none of them that I got had any issues.
(I was so disgusted at that time, that I sold the entire lot - this was - oh maybe about 2 years ago.)

Welllll - that would be because I already spent a fortune on EZ track & switches, and also dont have room for their 'next' size up, which is 26, I think. The reaon I ask about Atlas is whether this problem is related to the engine, or EZ track (which can and has had bad moments, especially with switches)