A new engine would be very nice but I would say spreading model railroading around the world would be even better.

Normal bridges with wood cross members the rail is nailed right to the tie. On steel girders bridge ties are used and some times normal rail ties. For better help the inner guides don't usally go on bridges shorter then 20 feet. Being on a track crew I can look in my FRA book of codes for more info.

If the motor is running and not moving the engine, sounds like the gearing is miss aligned. If you can move the drive wheels freely that's your problem. I had the same problem with a merchant navy loco from hornby.

Looking at his picture It would make a interesting model. But to find a 6 axle chassis that short could be a problem. one way is find a 4 axle and falsify the middles axles, that would make things easier then you could use a GE 44 tonner as the bassis. I would like to see what else pops up on this post.

Knowing there is a big market to the HOn30 or oo9 narrow gauge for TTTE. The only problem I see is making the chassis for the engines. Parkside Dundas is a web site I go to for 009. Rolling stock is really easy to build. I have built a few slate wagons in Hon30 already. Another site to go is railway recollections, the make 0n30 and hon30. The other though that came to mind would be on30 but that can't be used with the existing ho scale Thomas line.
One nice thing they could do with the repaints of models is copy the real engines from wales. Skarloey, Rheneas, Sir Handal, Peter Sam and Duncan are from the Talyllyn railroad in Tywyn Wales.

Some great railways would come from Bachmann producing this scale.

welcome to Bachmann. your 009 railroad has two different names hon30 and 009. I have some Hon30 a 2-6-2 prairie and a dysfunctional 0-6-0 porter. what your looking for will make a excellent model but I have a few questions. is this engine going to be a replica or are you going to free range on every part. Being a modeler my self and building interurban cars I have built both styles. to make a proto type it will be easy to find the real engine in preservation or get plans of the engine. In the end product it should look how you like and keep to a distance rule for easier representation.
I like to see this on pics but you might have to use photobucket.

That is helpful to me. I have been working on some other projects but have the info to keep working. I have been building a line of 1:20.3 bobber cabooses and can easily change the dimensions to 1:32 scale. these are 2 axle cars with kade knuckles. I just enjoy building these large size models but I'm running out of space to put them. Time to sell I guess.

Was working with D-23 cleaning out the barn, moved North Shore 761. Here is a video i just post you tube of L-8 working in the yard.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gxA06meiGM&list=UUZydqjJ880E6RgFB0p1YC1w

good point with the wheel sizes and scale. the wheels on ARR #1 are 44" diameter. You will find this info on johns Alaska railroad page. http://alaskarails.org/pix/former-loco/eng-drwgs/001.html

Mr bachmann
could I get the wheels for the large scale 0-4-0. do I have to contact parts department or order them completely separate. My plan is to build Alaska railroad loco #1 in 1:20.3 and 1:32.

well since this is a electric locomotive the sound will add to the appeal. On the job list for this weekend is pulling out North Shore 761 with L-8. I will try to get some videos of L-8 in action. I will probably be operating D-23 also a TM car. One thing that I have been building is a South Shore steel interurban number not yet decided. It is painted up in our dinner train colors WW2 extension to 80', the # that we have for that design are #23, #24 and #25. a separate car that will be add is car #107 combine.

Thanks for the help

Anything can be built with time, knowledge, sketches, dimensions, money and history. Great things can come in small packages. As in this post it's easy to get off topic! B&O is well know yes but that's not what clanline started. He wanted to find out tips on converting  B&O EM1 to make A M-3 M-4 DM&IR Yellowstone. There is one nice thing with model railroading you can do what you want how you want it. Granted you will always have a few complainers, but you can never really get away from that. I do remember some time back I posted the same topic on converting a EM1 to a M-3 M-4 and got a few helpful tips. None of the reply's were off topic and no one threw manure on the subject. Simply said a lot of people should keep there mouth shut and think what would the consciences be if I said something.

I have tried a resistor in the electrical system with no good effect. Looks like I'm going to DC power. But on the plus side I have finished the main body work besides windows and small details, and started painting. Hopefully I will have her at Milwaukee train fest in the East Troy Railroad booth.

well it stills gets the size across. Now I just have to refine my measurements on the windows.

Yes I could add more weight to the loco. I have 2 road spikes cut up in the humps of the engine. What one of the members at East Troy RR is add a resistor or 2 to reduce current flow. As I said earlier is to rebuild in DC power with more weight and or a bigger motor, instead of a 5 volt say go up to a 10 if the size permites. I can take more detailed photos of the completed truck to show how much space I'm working with.