It's variable due by your tastes.

It's can just barely squeeze by a nineteen inch radius curve. If you do not have secured track, beware! We were running a Niagara around his layout. We had not barely built it, so the track was loose sectional track from Atlas connected by rail joiners. I decided to open the throttle wide around the next corner, and I hadn't seen that the track had move slightly, tightening the curve. The locomotive jumped the curve and fell useless on it's side like a dead rock. No slides, nor any other action. It just plopped off, with a great "Bam!". (The layout was just plywood, painted green.) The domino effect played as the whole consist, connected by couplers, tumbled until the last few cars. About two-thirds of the train was on it's side with almost enough room away from the tracks to allow another train to pass.


So, be careful! I would recommend twenty-one inches in radius and above. If you chose nineteen inch radius, be sure you have just fine curves. However, it's hard to not.

Cheers,
Joshua

Click Here

Tichy Train Group makes a large assortment of framed windows. Follow the link above to see their what hey have. Trust me, they make good details, and nice kits. I believe the windows that are identical to what your looking for are on the last page. (Page 3 for me).

Cheers,
Joshua

Rick D,
You can find sound-only decoders to add to other decoders. Digitrax makes them. It depends on what decoder you have currently installed, or if you don't have one installed at all, then www.soundtrax.com is where you should look for great sound decoders if you don't have a decoder installed.

Rich G,
Is LokSound good in quality? I was checking them out for a moment, but I thought they sounded a bit trapped up inside of the locomotive; and that the computer-required programing sounded like a bit much. (Is that correct, grammatically? I don't know if it's okay to connect a noun clause to a compound sentence with a semicolon.)

What are your views? I might consider them. Neat way of sanding down for the speaker. I think someone here on the forums awhile ago found out you can (carefully) remove a little bit from the rear of the DCC decoder PC board in a Bachmann FT to have a speaker fit properly.

Plus, tinkering is the way to get good at locomotives! You should probably not just start ripping apart engines, but preferably just start looking in them. So far, I can take apart and re-build any Athearn Blue Box locomotive! Hehe.  Now, I just need to get an A-Line repowering kit for the current sucker.

Have good day guys.

Cheers,
Joshua

I prefer the Southern locomotive when it was turned into a freight worker, just like the colors.

Cheers,
Joshua

Oh Rich! Are those the new Tsunami Baldwin sounds? I'm so glad they released these, I'd like to see about one for an RF-16.

What VO-1000 is that? Is that a MTH?

Cheers,
Joshua

I'm sure many will enjoy this article:

http://undertheweatherblog.blogspot.com/2008/01/boxcar-grain-on-mansfield-branch-1983.html

Cheers,
Joshua

Hey guys,
I'm trying to settle on something. I have some Details West MU cables, and I don't know if I should either remove the default Athearn template and drill a hole, or just remove part of the template and drill a hole to attach the MU cables. Anyone here use or didn't use the template?

So, what's the advice? 

Cheers,
Joshua

Well, a nice flat car would be fine. It may shake a tad. Just make sure it's strapped down okay. Play-Doh worked for me.

Just be warned to tape over any holes before using the Play-Doh. Oh, and make sure it isn't your best flatcar. A cheap Life-Like flatcar would do just fine. Why? Well, it does leave an oily residue.

I have a video to show the effects of putting a camera on a Evans boxcar from Bachmann:

*Video Pending*

Cheers,
Joshua

?!

I read (more like looked at the pictures and captions) the article in the March Model Railroader and I saw those Kato Superelevated curves and an idea popped in my head. Why not see if Bachmann would consider doing that for E-Z track?

Sounds reasonable. Let me know if I'm just having a moment of sudden excitment and I should call the men in white. 

Cheers,
Joshua

Les,
Looks like your going to have a great time! Enjoy it, let us know how it goes. 

Cheers,
Joshua

Well, as Jim pointed out, the B unit and A unit should be exactly the same underneath. So, you have a great option. Switch the body shells. If you do that, the fast engine of the B unit will now be the A unit and the slow A unit will be the B unit. So, now the A unit would just kick a little more power out for the slow B unit.

I take it neither engines are DCC? Make sure. DCC decoders can slow an engine down in DC mode compared to a straight DC locomotive.

Cheers,
Joshua

Read the system's instructions. It should tell you how to program a locomotive.

Cheers,
Joshua

Spam? Again!? I remember that dude with that stupid ****** crap. I reported him.

Cheers,
Joshua

I thought the Private Messaging system was broken.

Cheers,
Joshua

It is. I believe you should start out with just TRS2006. I don't know why they'd give you all those simulators when all of there content is on TRS2006 plus more built in, and all the downloadable content from it works on TRS2006. Although, some TRS2004 may not work on TRS2006, so it's wise just to install those two.

Cheers,
Joshua