Good luck on your project.  Keep us formed.

Chuck

I have no idea as to whether or not the replacement boiler comes with weight.  My comment was about whether or not your basket case came with a weight in the boiler.

Pardon my comment, but it sounds as if your eBay purchase may have a usuable tender.  So far you are replacing the entire engine.

Call me confused!

Chuck

I assume, that you already have the boiler and cab.  Is there no weight in the boiler? 

I suggest that you call the parts department and ask them how much weight should be in the boiler.  Too little weight and the drivers will slip and too much will put added strain on the gears and motor.  I've used lead fishing weights in a couple of my engines, not Bachmann, but weights used to balance wheels would also work.

Chuck

Ron

Glad you found the problem.  Why did you want to reorient it?  Was it pointed forward?

Chuck

Are you sure it is wired.  I have seen some engines that have a dummy backup lamp on the tender.  Just a suggestion.

Chuck

PS most only work when the engine is backing up.  Have you tried it in both directions?

Thanks Stan.  Is that anywhere in a public data base?  If not, it doesn't exist, until now.

I won't disagree that it,will handle 5' diameter curves.  My question is for how long.  I know some one who runs LGB 0-4-0s on R1 (4' diameter curves) all the time.  He has to replace his track every couple of years, because the rail head gets worn down.  I think that in the long run there might be a problem with 5' diameter curves.

Chuck

Stan

We do not know which engine he has.  My concern is that an engine with 4-axles on the motor is stressed at a tight diameter curve.  Experience, mine, has shown that manufacturers minimum design diameter is a minimum for short term running, like under a Christmas tree.  Long term running on a regular basis is entirely different.

Which Connie 2-8-0 are you talking about, with a 5' diameter minimum?  The current web site says that an 8' minimum diameter is recommended.  There is no way my 10 years old outside frame spectrum 2-8-0 will handle < 8' diameter curves on a regular basis.  It is not a C-19, is there a BH C-19?

Chuck

The Bachmann web store says to use 8 foot diameter or greater.  If you want to use 4' diameter curves you need cars and engines with a short wheel base.  The best are rolling stock with two axles. 

Small two axle diesels or steam engines with two drive axles, a single axle leading and/or trailing truck is OK.

There is a lot of wear and tear on engines and track is the engine is too long.  The wheels will grind the rail head and the drive train on the motor block will require frequent repairs.

Chuck

Andrew

I just sent you a PM.

chuck

You might try testing it inside.  Put on its back or lay it on its side and touch the wheels with leads from your power supply and slowly increase the power.  Try this in both directions.

There is a big difference between what your power supply reads and what might be going to the track.  If you slide the control handle up it will read increased voltage even if it isn't connected to anything.  The critical thing is that the amps read "0".  That says to me that the engines aren't getting any power.

Chuck

If you lay it on its side support it at the front and rear so that the drive rods are free to move and not touching anything.

Rusty

Most HO power supplies are way under powered for "G" gauge trains.  HO engines draw a lot less current than the large scale engines and the drag of the train adds to the load.

Some power supplies have a switch that lets you change the voltage and power output for the scale you are running.

Most large scale power supplies top out in the 20 to 24 volt range.

Chuck

Rusty

Over on the <mylargescale.com> website have been several threads related to your question.  You will find a lot of suggestions and opinions.  Many in conflict.  You have ask a question for which there are many answers.  Mine are in the above post.  Everyone in this hobby has an opinion as to what is best, ie, it works for him/her.  That is life in Large Scale.  You will have to pick and choose what seems to be best for you. 

http://forums.mylargescale.com/29-beginner-s-forum/60330-need-expert-opinions.html

http://forums.mylargescale.com/29-beginner-s-forum/61482-will-transformer-enough.html

It gets even more fun when you ask questions about going outdoors.  It can be done and many of us run year round.   I've been outside for over 30 years.

In the snow.





and the sun.







The first two were taken on my layout in Colorado, 1983-1993 and the last three were taken at my layout in Virginia, 1994-present.  Each car in the last picture draws about 0.5 amps for the lighting.

Chuck

Rusty

That is a common problem with starter set power supplies.  It is probably rated at 1 amp or less.  Most of us use power supplies rated at 10 amps or higher.  I have a train that draws 7 amps.  It has two Diesel engines with two motors in each engine and six lighted passenger cars.  If your future plans are modest, no long trains with sound smoke and lighted cars, a 5amp supply should cover what have.

Since this is Bachmann site and I can't recommend other vendors.  Check with a local hobby shop.

Chuck

Note added.  When figuring power needs, I use the following as a guide.  

1. 1 amp per motor in the engine.  Some are lower, but some approach 1 amp.  My F3 diesels have two motors and they draw 1 amp each.

2. 1/2 an amp for smoke, lights, and sound.  This could be a minimum.

3. 1/2 amp per lighted car.  This could be high for some cars, but that's what I get for my USAT streamliners.

To keep from burning out your power supply its amperage rating should be several amps above your estimated maximum load.  Repeated running at near max rating is not good.

Have you tried picking up the engines, turn them around and putting them back on the track to see if they run forward?  Or testimg the track with a different engine?  It sounds to me that there is a problem in your polarity switch on your power supply.

Chuck

Do you have a volt meter to check the voltage to the track in both directions?

Since I've seen your posts on MLS I assumed your question was about "G" gauge.  The last post looks as if it is an HO system.  I can't offer any further help. 

Chuck