One possible reason for no UP RS3 is that the UP never owned any. They bought RS-2 and RSC-2 units. Granted, the lack of a prototype has never stopped a model manufacturer from coming out with fantasy units, but just because they can doesn't mean that they will. 

You may have a screw loose... on the car, that is. Disassembly and inspection is your only option for figuring that out.

If your curves are broad enough, you might be best off body mounting your couplers.

Quote from: spookshow on January 25, 2018, 04:43:43 AM
Good job. Now, your next task is to pitch that antique into the trash and get something that was designed in this century 

Cheers,
-Mark

MARK! ARE YOU INSANE?!?!

Airjockey has a nearly half-century old vintage model on his hands. He needs to post it for sale on eBay, where he can easily get one or two thousand pennies for it (+ shipping). Waste not, want not. There is sure to be a sucke.... ahem.... collector out there in need of it for his collection. 

My roster is very eclectic because I have equipment from G to Z scales... Yes, I am slightly addicted to model trains.

G-scale: a 1:29 scale doodlebug from Aristocraft (sp???)

3rail O-scale: post-war and 1970s Lionel - two FA's, an ARMY critter, a gang car, a 1970s MPC era Blue Comet 4-6-4, and a pair of 2-4-2s (or the like)

2rail O-scale: a trio of Atlas critters and Red Caboose GP9

HO-scale: There are too many to list individually, but they come from Varney, Bachmann, Lifelike, Tyco, Walthers, Scratch or Kitbashed one-of customs, AHM, NPP (brass), Mantua, John English (pre-Bowser), Kato, and Stewart. (and possibly others)

N-scale: an RS11, RS1, U-boat, FA2, a trio of EMD F-units, and a GP40-2 from Bachmann, Lifelike, or Atlas, a Bachmann doodlebug, and a pair of Kato RDCs (and I might be forgetting one or two)

Z-scale: None.


And in case you are wondering, I am presently working on shelf layouts in my apartment for the HO and N, and a portable display layout for the 2-rail O-scale. Did I mention that I have an addiction problem???

You can also file the ends of the Code 100 rail so that it tapers into the Code 83, or you can use Code 100 on the approach / stall tracks too and connect them to the Code 83, thus keeping the transition away from the edge of the turntable.

With apologies to our host, old Bachmann train sets ain't worth half of what you paid for them retail-wise. That said, many of us who model in HO got our start in HO via such sets, and so their true value comes from the doorways they opened into the land of the imagination. So, open the box, setup the train, and I hope it is the start of a long and magical journey for you and your child for many decades to come.

Quote from: indian_hills_r_r on January 10, 2018, 11:07:13 PM
I am looking at a couple engines. one is a sd40-2 the other is a Gp40-2. I am pretty sure the GP stands for General purpose. can someone tell me what the SD stands for. also what would be the  difference between the two.

SD = Special Duty -- in many minds at the time of early diesel development, 4-axle locomotives were considered the norm, and anything with more (or less) was "special". The 6-axle units were developed for several reasons, but the original reasons were to spread out the tractive effort and / or weight. Except for passenger units (E-units) and the FL-9, all of EMD's 3-axle trucks had three powered axles. ALCO, on the other hand, produced 6-axle freight units in RSC (outer powered, middle idler) and RSD (all powered) variants.

As to the differences between an SD40-2 and GP40-2.... aside from the trucks and the frame length, the two models were basically the same beneath the hood. How they were used depends on the railroad in question. Rightly or wrongly, my personal rule of thumb is that Geeps were assigned to lighter,  faster, high priority trains, while the SDs were assigned to heavier, slower trains. There were and are exceptions to that - especially today where it seems that every train on the mainline is pulled by 6-axle units regardless of schedule. Refer to photos and other resources to see how your prototype or favorite railroad did / does things.

On a model railroad, the GP40-2 will take and look better on tighter curves than an SD40-2 will.

I am sorry for your family's loss, and thank you for his service. God bless.

My goto are Really Useful Boxes (http://www.reallyusefulproducts.co.uk/usa/html/boxdetails.php). The 4 litre is my default box, with the 9 litre for taller models, junkers, and N-scale models in jewel cases. The 11 litre is perfect for steam or 85' +/- cars (HO scale). The 4 and 9 stack with each other, but the 11 doesn't with them. Eventually, I will add something larger for my 2-rail O equipment, but I've not yet decided on a default box for them. (yep, I model in multiple scales)

Other sizes are handy for electronics, weathering, paint, wiring, DCC, magazine storage, etc. Walmart and other big box or crafting stores sell them or something similar. Any one of them will also work, but make sure that the box is rigid (doesn't twist or flex under a load) and that the latches are snug.

Today being the 20th, I would strongly suggest that you "get thee to a hobby shoppe" (to paraphrase Hamlet). You could use a broader radius than the set track - which is probably 11.25" (it should be cast on the underside of the track) - or you can use the same radius and just use straight filler pieces to split the half circle into quarter circles.

Just because you can do something does not mean that you should do it. 

Flex track will make extremely tight turns - 5" radius or less, which is tighter than 99% of models will be able to go around. For your 30" board, that means you need a radius about 13" +/-, which might be too tight for your equipment to use. You might need to enlarge your board.

As there is an N-scale (1/150th rather than 1/160th scale) Thomas & Friends already out there from another company, Bachmann might not have the rights to make one, as the other company might have exclusive rights. 

I prefer craft store sand or fine ballast, and not to glue it down. It's easier to get an even weight distribution, and it makes life simple if you need to add or remove weight later.

You are very much welcome. Glad I could be of some assistance.