I would try NWSL.com to see if they have a replacement for your gear. Bill

Thanks Eric: Think I will leave a lead coming from the board and splice onto it from the motor. Bill

Jonathan, I believe those items on the board are capactors and inductors, not resisters. Therefore I will still need to add the resisters into the lighting circuts. Thanks for the help. What do you think? Bill

I'm ready to start my EM-1 conversion to a regular Tsunami, and after removing the loco shell, is it better to remove the entire metal board with the caps and inductors then rewire the motor conections, or just cut every thing off flush to the metal; I guess heat sink, and close her up . Bill

From my research on this variation, not all EM-1's had these lights, and only after they were renumbered to a 3 didgit number. Have never seen a picture of one any other way. This is not to be critical, but just to make you aware of the proto type application. Not a B&O guru but it's all I turned up. Also, only seem to have been changed from single to double in the last year or two of operation. Bill

Sometime ago, I down loaded some CV lists that had blank areas behind each number so you could write in the values you had set. If you changed something later you could erase and enter the new value. This was done especially so if I had to do a reset I could reenter the values I lost. Each engine had its own chart.Kept a master copy of the different products so I could make as many new copy's as needed. Don't remember where, but was either learning about QSI or Blueline at the time. Bill

I have a TSU1000, that when I can get around to it, will install in my EM-1. The instructions say that you can get a cam that fits over the inside of the drivers, and is activated by a wiper if you choose. There is a CV for an adjustment in the chuff in the decoder, but you have to change it to run the cam. Call Soundtrax and they will answer your questions. Have called them a few times regarding what I want to do, and they have been extremely helpfull. I say the answer is yes to your question Bill

If the color is done correctly you can only detect the green color in bright sun light, and then it has to be very clean. Otherwise it looks dusty and smokey flat black! I only noticed the Brunswick green when the sun was out on the K4s when it was on display at Horseshoe Curve one trip. Color was used by the PRR as they determined it held up better than straight black under the then paint manufactures formulas. Information taken from the Keystone from an article dealing with the green color. Cab color was very dark mixture of freight car color and black. In latter days depending on repaints it varied from straight black to straight freight car color and every thing in between depending on what was on hand. Correct colors were followed more closely when repainted at Altoona. Bill

Hi: Understand where your coming from PF. Been there done that, But really, 1950's Zamic and the lead filled material standards, with Pittman outside frame motors sticking into the cab interior, against today's standards? Sound was unthinkable in the price range and quality 10 years ago we enjoy today. The EM-1 and the PRR H class engines were a few of the most requested engines listed on BLI's site until they took it down. The only good thing I can say about that era now is that they did pull. But it required a few or more amps to do it. Bill

Please Mr. Bachman ( if your as old as I am you will remember dancing to a tune with a title very similar to this. Hope if brings a smile) If you would bring out a Spectrim PRR H9s or H10s 2-8-0 with the same quality as the EM-1 (one of the best engines I ever purchased) you couldn't keep up with the orders. They used them for switching as well as road engines. There are probably more PRR modelers than most other roads combined. That's why sales are so high. Just get the whistle right. One of the roads that I know of, the Western & Allegheny, bought some second hand showing that the short lines also had them. Great short line engine. Bet this post will draw a few pages. Bill

Been using pennies for many many years. I use a white glue, brand name of Weldbond made in Canada, but local hardhare stores can get it. First found it at Lowe's, but haven't seen it there in a long time. Never had it come lose, in fact when you go to remove it for any reason it's a chore. I first clean pennies by dipping them in lacquer thinner then glue them in equal stacks, it's  a messy operation' Then glue them to the floor. Never had any come lose. Bill

Thanks everyone for your interest and input; much appreciated. Bill

When I first ran my EM-1 on a friends layout we had trouble with the tender also. When I returned home and adjuster the wire connections (3 on each side of draw bar it worked fine on my test layout. No problems what ever through my #8 crossover or the #6 siding. Bill

Just read in the General form that they were having trouble with a decoder in Germany, and that clipping the caps corrected the problem. So, will do this when I start the project. Was somewhat worried it would create a open circut. Why does this not open the circut? Bill

Just a wonderfull response in today's world. Will be 70 this year and have loved HO since I was i2 years old or more. Remember staring at Walthers adds for there 60' pullmans for less than 5.00? Boy have we come a long way. Welcome back. Bill