So basicly, on a large scale layout, one could also run an N scale (representing a large scale train on the layout).  But the Z scale would represent a smaller scale.

Did I understand it correctly?

     With the EZ command, run your loco, while it is running, push a different loco number and you are ready to run a second loco.

I have had absolutely no problems with my EZ Command.  I don't have a layout, so it is just fine for me, setting it and running some trains for a few days and then take apart.  Now when I build nyself a layout, I will probably get an MRC prodigy DCC system.  From all the pictures I've seen of it, it looks easier to use than the Zepher.

Also, we tend to hear more negative feedback about things because people want to get it working again.  We don't hear about it working because no one is asking questions about it because it works.

The locomotive will still be subject unto the DCC power.  All that the adjoining DC pack will do is to provide an additional throttle for your DC loco and add a tenth DCC loco address.

     Hey all, I was just wondering the other day.  If I have a large scale layout that depicted real size, what would N or Z scale be on the large scale layout?I don't know all the scale dimentions, otherwise, I would try to calculate it myself.
Thanks for any info.

     These switches are preferred for use in yards that require close spacing of tracks.

    Mr. Bachmann,
    I just bought item number 17523, HO 56' ACF center flow hopper, New York Central, gray; and I think I found a mistake in the printing.  Right below the NYC logo is a list of cautions.  The last line says, "EXTER CAR WITH RUBBER SOLED SHOES ONLY."  Is this a mistake?  Because I think it ought to say ENTER instead of EXTER.  It's not like anyone is going to notice it, but I noticed it as not being prototypical unless the prototype is that way too.  It does not bother me; I just think it's funny.

     Yes, I believe it is possible.  But I can not tell you what pieces to use.

But the major question to you would be, "How far apart do you want the parallel tracks?"

     Hy all, I prefer HO scale.  But as for 2-rail O scale trains, I think Bachmann would do it.  After all, all the other Bachmann scales are.

     I've never been there, but by looking at the pictures I don't see the unrealistic nature that some of you have said.  The nature of John Allen's modeling was more like a painter trying to give the allusion of depth to a flat surface.   This resulted in unreal scenery.  Northlandz seems to be totaly different.  Everything I've seen of it, without actualy going there, seems to be realistic.  But we seem to see a different type of too much modeling.  The most noticeable are the bridges.  Sure they are realistic by design, but too long by prototypical guidlines.  That's just one that I see very clearly.  But the modeling is quite different than John Allen's G&D.

From the pictures I've seen of it, I'd say, " Yes, it is worth it."  If you only visit once, think of it as buying a freight car that you don't get to keep.

Thanks guys, and it was a rather good one.

     As of right now, I get what I can get, and then strive to be prototypical.  But for now, since I don't have a layout, I'm simply adding to my collection.

Well guys, it's a little boring today, even though it's my birthday, but I have a little bit of wisdom I received a few days ago that I would like to share with you.  First of all, with me, I like the power of locomotives and have purchased some.  But being new the hobby with no layout, what good is motive power?  However, I plan to build a layout sometime, so the motive power is needed.  Then this wisdom hit me.  I have two steam locos, one has an alternate tender that I bought for it, so I could say I have three; and I have three diesels.  But I only have four cars.  Why should I buy motive power if I don't have anything for them to pull?  So here's the wisdom:
I've decided to buy motive power one at a time.  With each loco I buy, I will buy enough cars for that particular loco before I think about buying another loco.
This wisdom is great for small layouts.

Just a litlle bit of wisdom from the new 21-year-old.

     Not sure exactly what you mean, but try this.
Make sure the loco is not on the track.  Press and hold the number three button and then press the stop buttom.  If the power light flashes rapidly, place the loco back on the track.  Now press number three again.  If the loco jerks backwards slightly, you know it worked.  If it does not, then I can't help you.

  OK,  It seems as if I'm the one not understanding what you guys mean by jumper cables.  The Spectrum 2-8-0 that I have will work with the medium vanderbuilt tender I'm looking at getting.  But apparently, the question I had at the beginning of this post has to deal with these jumper cables of which I still don't understand.
Thanks for having patience with my confusing details.

SteamGene,

     I was not trying to be realistic, just proving the difficulty of its production with E-Z track.   Anyway, thanks for that info, I did not know it.