I believe glennk28 already reported on removing the cab roof.

But, here goes again.  There are four very small screws that hold the roof in place. Two are located up under the roof over hang on the front cab wall just inboard of the edge.  Same for the back cab wall.

You might need a flash light to see the screws since they are small and hide well.

Also, checking the exploded parts diagram, while it might take a little study, will usually show this type detail.

JD

The Industrial (Indy) Mogul was introduced mid December 2002.

At that time, the Indy I received had no Owner's Manual or DVD. All that was provided were two schematic sheets.

Sheet G816X-IS001 had a Wiring Connection diagram on one side. The other side had Boiler and Cab Assembly diagram.

Sheet G816X-IS002 had Tender and Truck/Wheel Assembly diagram on one side.  The other side was Locomotive Frame, Valve Gear Assembly and Wheel Assembly.

That's it. Not even any indication of lubrication points or procedures.

Possibly Bachmann Service could provide you with these two schematic sheets.  It's a rather simple locomotive so you should not have any problem placing it in service or operating it.

Takes a 9 volt battery under the tender water hatch for the chuff.  The sound on-off switch is the silver water butte on the tender next to the water hatch.

These are great little locomotives, that with a little tweaking will pull 3-4 freight cars or 2-3 J&S coaches. 

JD

Rick,
Reference the Johnson Bar.

Since most of the Bachmann Spectrum line has working Johnson Bars I use a 6 inch tweezers to move the bar on all these locomotives.  These tweezers came from Micro-Mark and have a curved end.

Just reach into the cab from the rear, grasp the top portion of the Johnson  Bar with the tweezers, lift up slightly, and set the bar.   

I like to have the Johnson Bar set all the way forward (the company notch) for mazimum valve motion. 

Also used these tweezers to remove that @#&*#@ foam from both sides of the boiler in the cab. Was able to lift the foam right out with no problem.

JD

Rick,
Good for you. "All is well that ends well."   Thanks for reporting back.

While we're at it.  Don't forget to remove the small pieces of black foam from inside the cab, if you haven't already done so.

JD

Ricky,
On the K-27 that I have the draw bar came mounted to the locomotive. It's metal.



This picture shows the draw bar between the two sets of wires and plugs that exit the back of the locomotive.

JD

Tommy.
Oops! Sorry.  The stanchions are plastic.  They do seem a little more robust than those used on the Bachmann Big Hauler tank cars. 

JD

Not to steal any of the Bach Man's thunder, but the hand rails are metal.

I have one of each narrow frame and frameless tank cars.  These are well built and detailed cars.

JD

Steve,

Quote(and I was admonished by someone behind the scenes that it might not be Bachmann's fault and to stop and consider before spreading rumors)

Why would anyone that has watched your actions for any length of time expect anything less.

This latest has not topped the best one of all that you pulled several years ago at the ECLSTS and managed to get posted on a forum. 

You do not disappoint when it comes to this type action!

JD

The CD&StL had its K-27 out on the iron today.  We're having spring like weather.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXOBygFflXU

Here's a short video of the "Kay" as it passes Delphos tank with a mixed behind the its tank.  Not the greatest video but you'll get the idea. Phoenix sound installed but it has the wrong chip. Correct chip on order.

Battery power/RC works great with the K-27.  It's real easy on batteries.  Ran for over 2 1/2 hours on a Crest lithium.  That was with all lights and the sound.  No smoke.  Battery had not reached its cut-off point when we called it a day.

Those red classification lights have got to go.

JD

Ran the K-27 today for the first time.  Smooth as silk.  Still have to finish the Phoenix sound instal.

Found that the K likes 10 ft. radius the best.  Handles 5 ft. radius just fine. Most of my track work has 10 ft. radius.

For switches the K-27 went through #6 switches just fine, obviously.  Aristo extra wide radius (5ft.) were no problem either.

Have one LGB 4 ft. radius switch on a seldom used section of the layout.  The K will make it through but you have to take it slow.  No problem with cab roof and edge of tender.  Where there could be a problem is with the pilot truck.  I noticed the flange of the pilot truck wheel, on the inside of the curve, was just touching the edge of the steam cylinder.  Would seem to me that running on 4 ft. radius could get a little "sporting" with the K-27.  Plus it will look like *#@"#@ going around 4 ft. radius.

I have a section of track that is really rough.  The sprung suspension of the K handled the rough track just fine.  With its long driver wheel base the K seems more at "home" on rough track than any of my ridged framed locomotives.

As an aside.  The steam cylinder caps were loose on this engine. One fell off while running.  Lucky I was able to find it along the track.  You might want to check the cylinder caps on your K-27. I used a little cement to hold them in place.

And those red classification lights have got to go.

JD

If you plow with the K-27 be careful not to let snow melt and run down inside the tender.  Even though there is a raised edge around the opening that is under the coal pile, water can still run down inside the tender along the front edge next to the coal doors.

I'm going to seal that opening and then be careful when running in the rain and plowing snow.

JD

Glenn,
It's probably the lighting, caused by the sun.

The green is darker in "person."  It's close to the same shade of green that Bachmann used on the Great Northern Big Hauler a few years ago. I have so much weathering on the Great Northern that it would be difficult to compare the two.

It is not as "green" as the ET&WNC Big Hauler.

JD

OK, all you smart guys.

I agree there is a wealth of documentation.

Now for those of us that are about as sharp as a lead pencil, how and where the @#&*&# do you pick up the feeds to connect the optical chuff trigger to a Phoenix board.  To me the wiring diagram is about as clear as mud.

This ain't your momma's Mogul!



Great locomotive if I could just get it to trigger the chuff.

JD

Don't know when others may have received these cars.

I received a narrow frame tank car on Dec. 14, 2007.



These are highly detailed cars. Very well done.



The frameless arrived on 1-3-08.

My dealer has had these cars since the middle of December.  Plan to purchase more after the shock of paying for the K-27 passes.  Also have the new gondola on order at this time.  The gons are in stock.

Of the two, I prefer the narrow frame version.   

I have one, possibly two, snow plows for the Big Hauler.  I think they are a resin casting.  These were made to fit the standard Big Hauler, so they should work on the Annie version.

I'd sure sell them for way less than the cost of an Annie.

Anyone interested contact me off-net.  I will send a picture of the plow so you could see if it meets your requirements.  I did check to see there might be a picture. No luck, but it won't take long to snap a picture.

JD