I have read somewhere that a new, sharp #11 X-Acto blade, heated, will make the cutting and removal process much easier if you can't get them off any other way.

Hope you have great sucess in their removal!

lanny nicolet

PS to Paul,

Your question is definetely NOT a stupid question!

We all learn when questions like yours are asked on this forum.

lanny nicolet

Hi Paul,

It sure 'sounds' good ... however, I would contact the seller and tell him the specific power pak you are using and ask him if there are any known problems, power, etc. with this device and your power pak.

I use an MRC Control Master 20 with the MRC hand held throttles which run about $22.00 with cable, at online RR stores. This powerpak can run anything from 'Z' to 'G' depending on what position the 'guage' switch is in. It works beautifully.

Experts like Hunt, Jim B., Nigel and many others can give you electrical info ... but I wonder if you might need something more 'robust' than the power pak you have in order for this to work 'as advertised'?

lanny nicolet

I agree with Hoople and Roger T. I had to add weight to both my Spec 2-8-0 as well as my 2-10-0 tenders in order for them to track properly. I used the commercial lead pieces with the self adhesive tape, though anything would work. I specifically put weight towards the front of the tender and in both cases that worked perfectly.

My Spec 4-6-0 is on order and from what Roger says, it sounds as though I will be doing the same to that when I receive it.

My Spec heavy mountain and 2-6-6-2 don't seem to need any added tender weight.
lanny nicolet

One other thing I should have mentioned about the aux water tender. On the ICRR, at least, I don't think there was any lettering ('road name', etc.) that I can see, on them. Just a small number. Perhaps the same is true of other railroads ... maybe your water tender just doesn't need a road name or even a large number to be 'prototypical' appearing?

lanny nicolet

I have a Bachmann Spectrum aux. water tender ... I am pretty sure its patterned after an N & W water tender. However I purchased it 'undecorated' (that is with no numbering or anything) to try to 'bash' it into an IC water tender.

I haven't tried to do anything with it yet, but depending on what you want your water tender to look like, an "undec Spectrum water tender" seems like a great place to start.

I purchased mine about a year and a half ago, but assume they are still available.

lanny nicolet

Hi Bill,

I have some open frame motors (Bowser and Hobbytown heavy duty). You won't have any problem with a Q-tip and alcohol. Power up your motor and gently apply a Q-tip with alcohol and then, when you see a shiny copper commutator, use a dry one.

Be careful not to leave any 'Q-tip' material on the brushes and communtator and follow Rich R's advice about cleaning the groves carefully inbetween the commutator.

I have tried the Raido Shack type electronic cleaner and it also works, but, I 'overdid' it and the motor began to short. So, whichever you use, don't 'overuse' as has already been suggested.

When I have done this, these motors, though some are over 20 years old, run like a top.

Personally, I would not recommend any kind of abrasive material to clean the motor. If an erasure has any kind of 'grit' in it, be careful ... others can give better advice, but I think a 'liquid cleaner' like alcohol is much better than any kind of dry abasive.

lanny nicolet

Quote from: John Murphy on March 12, 2007, 11:56:11 PM
Dear Bachmann, et al:

Oh, is there a best way to make suggestions for future products?
   Best, John Murphy

Hi John,

I think you just used 'the best way' ... or at least 'one of the best ways'.  Maybe a letter direct to Bachmann would be good as well. I think Mr. Bachmann shares what modelers wish Bachmann industries would mfg. with the the Bachmann 'powers that be', based what he sees on the forum.

lanny nicolet

Hi Calog,

I have one of the 'older models' Hunt referred to. It's a great runner, heavy and a good puller but if you have the older model, you may want someone like Tony's Train Exchange to install it for you, if it can be done.

Mine was an 'undec' model and when I removed the shell for painting and detailing, it seemed to me that just about every possible space inside the shell was filled with the cast, molded, weight chassis that encloses the motor.

There may be room for a decoder in there somewhere. I have a BLI steamer and looking at it, I can't imagine getting a decoder that size inside the old style Spec FHph.

Hope yours is one of the 'DCC ready' models that Hunt describes. Best wishes on getting it changed to DCC.

lanny nicolet

Jon,

Very, very nice looking set. I also really like seeing the figures worked in with your scenery. Very convincing and realistic. Great work!

lanny nicolet

HOplasserem80c

I can't give a definitive answer to your question about the Spec. Doodlebug negotiating 18" radius track. I suppose part of the answer would deal with how much free 'play' the power truck and the trailing truck in your Doddlebug has.

Experts on the forum could give you a much better answer, but I think that with rolling stock such as 80' HO cars, the trucks and coupers might often be one piece so they swing freely. I don't think the Spectrum Doddlebug has that much 'truck swivel play'. I 'assume' that if track is laid very carefully, it probably will negotiate 18" radius curves.

I have found that even with weight added above the power truck, my Doddlebug just doesn't have the 'power' to pull a trailer up my long 2.7%+ grades. But that's okay ... it does fine by itself and that's all I use it for ... stopping at every little wayside station and/or 'whistle stop' that my mainline passenger trains zip by.

lanny

Hi Vinny,

I am not sure that this dealer would have what you are looking for but, if you haven't yet check them out, try www.greatdecals.com

Best wishes on finding what you need! (you might check 'rub down lettering' ... perhaps you can 'create' what you need from that source)

lanny nicolet

Roger,

Thanks for that excellent explanation of 'leaves on the track' ... that's one that never occured to me before. Amazing the number of 'problems' that RRs have to consider and be on the lookout for. The leaves changing color in the fall is so beautiful, few would consider that time of the year to be a time of increasing danger for certain railroads.

I can remember a CNW branchline (before it was shut down and became a bike trail) that had a problem with overhanging trees. Every so often they RR would go along the track with some sort of railroad version of an upright lawn mower (make that 'tree limb mower') to cut back all this growth and keep it back from the track.

Any ideas why the British rail systems don't do something like that?

lanny nicolet

Hi Ray,

Ooooops ... I meant #908! After all our eMails, your photos, etc. I shouldn't have made that number mistake :-)

lanny

Orsonroy,

You once sent me the name of a supplier of the NKP/ICRR style steam headlights, which I have subsequently lost or deleted ( the beautiful model of your NKP mike is a good example of that headlight).

What companies make them as super detail parts ... I need to stock up on several for my Spectrum 'kit bashes'.

Thanks!

lanny nicolet