The Bachmann catalog for 2000 lists two painted, unlettered Climax locomotives.
Item #81181 Painted Unlettered (with Tapered Stack)

Item #81185 Painted Unlettered (with Diamond Stack) 

The Diamond Stack is the Lima Diamond Stack.

JD

I did some additional checking this morning in reference to oil vs coal bunkers on the Heisler.  I pulled the five pages of documentation that came with the Heisler.

Page G817X-IS003 titled Tender Assembly.  Per this page the oil bunker is listed for product #81794. That's the Oregon Lumber unit.

Product numbers 81795, 81796,81797, 81798,81799 are illustrated as having the coal bunker.

If product #81799, Painted Unlettered also included the oil bunker then folks that purchased this locomotive got a bonus.

Two locomotives, product #81798, product #81799, are the two engines that show they have the front mounted air tanks.  Based on page G817-IS003 neither of these engines are supplied with the oil bunker.

Recommend before making a purchase of the #81799 have the dealer check to see if the oil bunker is also packed with the locomotive.  It could be that Bachmann threw in the extra oil bunker and did not show it in its catalog illustrations or account for it in the supplied documentation.

JD

My painted, unlettered Heisler came with the different stacks but it did not come with a coal load and oil bunker.  It came with just the coal load.

Guess maybe I did not get all the parts.

In the catalog for 2004 the only Heisler shown with the oil bunker is the Oregon Lumber.

JD

One last thing to check, if you already have not done so.

Check the cross level of the curves.  The 4-6-0 should run on the tight radius curves but cross level would be critical.



As in the picture, place a level at a right angle to the track. The bubble should be centered.  If the outer rail of the curve is just slightly lower than the inner rail then that will cause a derailing problem.

The rails should be level or at the most the outer rail of the curve could be just slightly higher than the inner rail - but not by more than a quarter or less of the bubble.  Cross level on curves is way more critical than cross lever on tangent track.

JD

I have three Big Haulers.  One is the standard version the other two are Anniversary models.  All have the version 5 drive train.  These three locomotives are run on at least a once a week basis.

Front pilot wheels are set at 1.560" back to back.  I know the G1MRA rough standard is 1.575.  However, with the back to back on these three engines set at 1.560" I do not experience any derailment of the pilot truck.

Don't have a problem running on the home layout or at other layouts.  Some of the track work is rather shabby and these locomotive's pilot trucks track just fine.  All switches are either AC extra wide radius or #6.  On other layouts these engines handle the LGB 1600 switches just fine.

I run battery power so the pickup wires to the front truck have been removed.  These wires sometimes will cause the truck to derail.  As mentioned keep the truck pivot point lubricated.

JD

Art,
I don't think the slip joint, either component, is too short.  It takes the truck moving to the extreme, either left or right, to cause the slip joint to disengage.

You might try a modification that would limit the swing of the truck left and right.  This would only work if you are running on larger radius curves. If running on four foot diameter then limiting the amount the truck can pivot will probably not work.

I did extent the front and rear pilot beam by adding another beam under the existing one.  By having the beams extented they limit the extreme amount the truck can pivot since the truck will hit the beam before it gets to its extreme movement either right or left.   Down side is that now the truck can not be rotated as far.

JD

Paul,
The Shay was a complete paint job.  I used Ruddy Brown primer with light over spray of brown, not sure what color that was.  Then the paint was rubbed to blend/smooth it.   After the paint job then the Shay was weathered.  I have a Climax painted the same way. I rather like the looks of these two geared engines.

Kevin,
I agree.  Dry transfers, especially those from Woodland Scenics, do have a limited shelf life.  I can usually figure on getting maybe two years or so out of a set of individual letters.  Once past that time the Woodland Scenics become rather iffy to get a complete transfer of the letter.

I've used your technique to apply some of the older dry transfers before the paint has completely dried.  That method works well so that old dry transfers can still be used.

I have some very old Larry Larson custom graphics and lettering that seems a fresh as the day I got it.  Too bad that Larry had to cease making his dry transfers.

JD

granpab,
I've been using Krylon Interior-Exterior rattle can paint on my locomotives and rolling stock for over ten years. I've never had a problem with dry transfer lettering or graphics sticking to Krylon paint.



This TBTO club Anniversary car was painted with Krylon and all the lettering and graphics are dry transfer.



This Shay is painted with Krylon. The Black Swamp Timber lettering on the tank is dry transfer along with the engine numbers.  This is one of the very early Shays and the lettering has held up well all these years.

I also use Woodland Scenics dry transfer lettering.  Or pick up  good quality dry transfer sets at local art or craft stores.

Now if your dry transfers are older than dirt, then you will have a problem.

I probably have well over 100 cars and 15 or so locomotives that are painted with Krylon and dry transfer lettered.  Never had a problem except when the dry transfers were really old and dried out.

Once the dry transfers are in place they are oversprayed with Krylon Matte Finish #1311.  This is applied in several light coats to protect the dry transfers.  On those rare occassions when I do use water slide decals, once they are dry, they are oversprayed with the same Matte Finish for protection.

JD

When the Connie was first introduced years ago there was a flurry of activity as owner's moved the headlight to the top of the smoke box front.

Here is a way to move the headlight on the Connie.

Start by removing the smoke box front from the locomotive.

When I did mine I cut the headlight wires leaving enough wire coming from the headlight so the wires could be soldered back together and shrink wraped.

A X-acto hobby knife with a chisel point blade was used to free the headlight bracket from the smoke box front.  It is important to support the smoke box door while doing this work.  The hinges are fragile and easily broken.

It will take a little time, working carefully, with the X-acto knife to cut the bracket free from the smoke box front.  Working along the edges of the tabs that mount the headlight bracket cut through the cement that attaches the bracket.  Important to not overly damage these two mounting tabs when removing the bracket.

Take the bracket and center it at the top of the smoke box front.  Mark the front with the location of the mounting tabs.  Cut rectangles for the mounting tabs.  Use the rectangles where the bracket was mounted as a guide for size.

Once the mounting rectangles have been cut in the smoke box front, drill a small hole for the headlight wires.  The bracket can be mounted with any good liquid plastic weld, CA, or 5 min. epoxy.

Fill the rectangles in the center of the smoke box door.  I used Squadron White Putty.  Once it dries, sand it smooth.  Paint the smoke box door to match the smoke box color.  I mounted a Baldwin number plate in the center of the smoke box door.

Once modification is completed, solder the headlight wires back together and install the smoke box front.



Backside view of the center rectangle holes filled with Squadron Putty.



Backside view of smoke box front with headlight bracket moved to top and cemented in place.



Headlight in place with Baldwin number plate mounted.



James O'Connor's Connie with headlight moved to top of smoke box front, along with other modifications/upgrades accomplished.  James ended up with a good looking locomotive.

Moving the headlight bracket on the Connie is a piece of cake.

JD

First, For the boiler to smoke box I would try a plastic weld liquid like Testors or Tenax-7R.  Either of these will "wick" into the joint and should do the job.  If not the plastic weld, then CA should do the trick.

For tender steps, first try Bachmann.  Call 215-533-1600 and ask for Irvin or one of the other repair personnel that work with large scale.  They may be able to salvage a set of steps from a model that was returned for repair and replaced by Bachmann.

If that fails then try either Ozark or Trackside Details.  Either of these suppliers should have tender steps that will meet your requirements.

JD

I've had a Connie since November 2001.  It was converted to battery power when received. 



The Connie has been run on a regular basis, probably at least two or three times per month since it was received.  Never a problem.  I lube the motor shaft, worm gear, and axle gear once a year.  The rest of the locomotive is lubed two or three times per year.

The Connie usually pulls 10 to 15 cars.  At the last drive gear/motor lubrication there were no signs of wear. So far, so good.  I would not hesitate to purchase another one of these locomotives.

Only problem with the Connie was one that has been reported a number of times.  One of the truck side frames broke loose from the truck bolster. I was able to repair the side frame and it has been fine since then.

JD

Steve is correct. The spark arrestor stack you refer to will not even come close to fitting the K-27. 

The stack you describe is known properly as a Lima Diamond stack.  It may have been installed on the Ely-Thomas Shay but that doesn't make it a Ely-Thomas stack.

For example, the Bachmann item number 82498, painted unlettered, fifty-five ton three truck Shay came with four stacks.  Those stacks were the straight stack, Hunter-Radley, Ruston, and Lima Diamond.  So, you had a choice of installing any of the four stacks.



This is the Lima Diamond stack.  The little round object to the left of the stack is the base in question.  This base was supplied/used on the Hundter-Radley and Lima Diamond stacks that came with the 55 ton Shay.

Good luck is trying to adapt a Lima Diamond to a K-27.  I'll say one thing, if you pull it off the K-27 will certainly have a "different" look!

JD

Jack,
I think both Kevin and I are too far away to meet with you.

However, if you will contact me off net I'll try to be of assistance.

If interested contact me at jlsclw@aol.com

JD

Eugene,

That's the main PCB. Easy to access.  Conversio to battery/RC is simple. On my Porter I wired it for eithe battery/RC or track power using a DPDT switch.

With the boiler weights removed there should be room for batteries, receiver, and sound, as others have reported.

JD

Eugene,

There is provision for a speaker.  I didn't measure when I had the Porter apart, but would think it takes a 2 inch speaker.



Here's a picture.  Note the grill.  However, about half the speaker will be blocked.  Look at the mounting ring and speaker retaining tabs.

JD