Quote from: Woody Elmore on September 15, 2008, 07:10:53 AM
Jerry - only passing on a report that I heard on CNN.

Woody:

I wasn't at all challenging your report. Just filling in (yesterday's) blanks.

This morning's front page headline reads:

"Was train engineer texting in crash?"

Then the article goes on to say that the NTSB is subpoenaing the engineer's cell phone records and seeking to ". . . question the young men who told KCBS-TV that they had taken part in an exchange of text messages just before the crash."

Death toll now stands at 25, with numerous still in critical condition. I sincerely hope for peace for the bereaved families and friends, and for speedy recovery for the injured.

I really do hope that the engineer wasn't doing something as stupid as texting, with the distraction contributing to the crash. I see stupid, inconsiderate people texting while driving down the highway at the speed limit or more. Not caring about one's own life is stupid, but deliberately putting others at risk is criminal.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

To Santa Fe Buff:

On edit: Thanks!!

Woody, All:

It seems that it is now popular for the texting geeks to claim there was texting going on before every disaster. This morning's Santa Rosa CA Press Democrat newspaper reads:

"Text rumor unconfirmed
A Los Angeles radio station reported Saturday that several teenage train aficionados said they had received a text message from the engineer shortly before the crash. But the NTSB said it was treating the report with caution, noting that similar accounts had circulated after a crash in Boston but were found to be inaccurate.

"We've heard reports to that effect, but we have nothing to confirm" said NTSB board member Kitty Higgins."

Happier RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: glennk28 on September 10, 2008, 09:23:50 PM
I would suspect that the market may be saturated with the two versions being made.   (Falk and Bear Harbor)

That along with the fact that both the Falk and Bear Harbor engines are standard gauge. Producing them in accurate scale / gauge (1:20.3 / 70.6mm) relationship would be a real stretch, even for Bachmann, the premier manufacturer of 1:20.3 scale equipment.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

I'm not a DCC operator, but I think I would ask myself what I'm saving by using 2 digit rather than four digit addressing if it's available on my system.

Another consideration is going to a friend's or club layout. Lots less possibility of conflict with the long addresses.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

My grandfather occasionally sold calves and pigs at auction, but never bought anything there. He taught me that the successful bidder at an auction had to pay more than anyone else was willing to pay. He always told me that it was much better to pay the same or less than anyone else, thus no buying at auctions.

I have used Ebay exactly one time, buying a cellphone for parts. I used the 'buy it now' button and got the parts I needed for about half of what I was willing to pay had they been available from the manufacturer.

Ebay and other the other auction sites would be hard pressed to make a living off my trade!

Happy RRing,

Jerry

I too am subject to those senior moments, but this is a really new item. I didn't know about the EVDO service until a month or so ago. Originally I thought it was something you added to Verizon's cellphone service, but that's not the case. I don't use Verizon as my cell phone provider. I purchased the modem and contracted (24 months) for the EVDO Broadband service only, and as a stand alone, hoping to improve over my dialup access.

I don't know specifically how it interfaces with the regular cell phone service, but it says it supports text messaging over the EVDO modem, just like a voice cell phone. The Macintosh VZAcess software doesn't support this, but the Verizon customer rep. said they are working on it. Everything else works the same as for a PC.

Go to Verizon's website. It has maps there for their various service coverage areas. Look at the map for "NationalAccess - BroadbandAccess." The maps are so small that they are really difficult to read, but the Verizon store knew where it would work. They offer a 30 day no-charge return privilege, so there really isn't any risk to trying it.

It really provides a superior alternative where we can only get dialup, with no cable or DSL available. I seriously looked at satellite, but there are several problems, including cost of installation, adding a dish and its maintenance, speeds only slightly higher that dialup (for the lowest cost tier), and strictly enforced 'fair use' policies that can see your service decreased or disrupted as a penalty for exceeding your allotment.

The EVDO modem works everywhere there is Verizon Broadband service, making it a good choice for a traveler, and can be transferred between computers at will. Just unplug the modem and plug it into the next machine. Really slick. My neighbor saw mine and was at the Verizon store by the time they opened the next morning!

I have no connection with Verizon, except as a very satisfied new EVDO Broadband customer.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: NelsOn-30 on August 29, 2008, 01:19:10 PM<snip>Satellite internet is the only available high speed option where cable and DSL is unavailable.

Satellite is not the only available alternative to dialup, cable and DSL.

Two weeks ago I got a Verizon EVDO modem. The modem itself looks very much like a USB thumb drive, going directly into the computer's USB port. The WWW connection is via CDMA protocol to a Verizon cell phone tower, with the unit working nationwide. It provides nominal 800kbps in both directions and acts just like the 'always on' cable and DSL connections. The Nationwide Broadband data plan is $60 / month, with no per minute charges. The modem was 'free' ($50 charged, with a $50 mail in rebate) and is usable in any computer with a USB port. I originally used it on my Macintosh G4 PowerBook and my MacBook. The provided VZAccess Manager software runs on PCs or Macs. They also have PCI card modem versions available.

For the first few days, I took the modem between my house and office computers, but then purchased a Cradlepoint Technology MBR1000 Wireless (802.11 b/g/n) Broadband Router. The Verizon modem is plugged into a USB port on the router, which is mounted in the attic of my office. This creates a Wireless Local Area Network that allows any computer with WiFi to access the internet at really good speeds. The whole system is password protected and I can also connect non-WiFi devices such as scanners, printers, etc. to the WLAN using ethernet cables to the router. My MacBook connects at 802.11n speeds, while the PowerBook is limited to 'g' speeds. Both are much faster than the nominal 800Kbps of the EVDO modem, so it is all very transparent speed-wise.

I regularly see speeds up to 1.2Mbps over the Verizon system and am really happy to be off dialup. I will save some of the cost of the Verizon Broadband by dropping the dialup phone line (~$20 / month), and changing my ISP access from a 'full service account' (~$200 / year) to a single email only account (~$50 / year). That wouldn't be necessary, but I want to keep my current email address.

Hope this helps.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Glad you got something that seems to work, but transformers only work on AC. I doubt your (originally DC battery powered) sound system will last very long on AC. In fact I'm amazed that it works at all on AC.

That's why I recommended a DC to DC voltage regulator. It's designed to work on DC voltage in and out and the voltage can be set to exactly the specified value.

BTW, if you actually do have a DC to DC voltage reducing device, 10.8 VDC is still over 13% higher than the 9V design voltage. That's pretty high, especially considering that 9V batteries only put out ~9V when they are brand new.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Rob_TPA:

I don't have any direct experience with changing the voltage on the Bachmann sound, but I would caution against putting more than the 9volts as produced by the battery.

The good news is that you can use an LM317 voltage regulator to accurately provide the 9V. Here is a link to an LM317 data sheet:
http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM317.html

The only additional components required are two resistors (actually one potentiometer and one resistor) , two capacitors and a very small piece of perforated board. All this is available at Radio Shack or similar and will cost around $10. Easy assembly and no risk to the sound system.

If you Google "LM317", you will get hundreds of thousands of sites where there is lots more information, but basically, the LM317 three terminal regulator can accept input voltages up ~28VDC, will very accurately regulate the output at whatever you set (or calculate using some of the website information), at current draws up to 1.5 amps. Really a great solution for your use.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Gene:

You are correct that it's best to apply a rosin (not "resin") type paste flux to both halves of every solder joint, and to pre-tin both halves. In fact, it is much more important to clean and pre-tin the larger (rail in this case) half than the wire.

I always pre-tin every joint, even on small diameter wires. I just finished assembling the prototype of a small R/C controlled firefighting machine where there were well over 200 18Ga. soldered wire connections, some in very difficult locations. Every joint was pre-tinned and there was not a single failed connection.

Cleaning the joint (especially the rail) is also very important. Use a fine abrasive cloth on the rail. I use a stick such as a bamboo skewer or craft stick to push the abrasive into the corners to make certain the oxidation is removed from all surfaces that are in the join area.

I use alcohol or other light solvent to wipe the join area prior to applying flux and tinning. Chemical (alcohol) cleaning for the wire isn't necessary unless oil or grease contamination is a possibility.

60 / 40 rosin core solder is most commonly used for these applications. Other more exotic solders are useful for specialized materials and situations.

Use a good (not old or eroded) tip in the iron. Clean the tip by dragging it across a damp sponge, then tin the tip. Flux the joint surfaces, heat and apply the solder. Applying the solder to the join surface rather than the tip of the iron will ensure that the join surface is hot enough to melt the solder.

It's not necessary to apply large amounts of solder for pre-tinning. Just coating the surface is good enough. If I get too much solder on an area, I heat it and wipe it off. The pre-tin should appear clean and bright.

I keep a supply of clothespins and other small lightweight clamps near my work station to hold or support the wire near the solder joint. This keeps the parts in contact and helps avoid moving the joint and creating a cold solder join. Add a little more flux to the join surfaces, put the part surfaces together and reheat. Apply just enough solder to create a fillet between the wire and the rail. Let the clamps hold it in place until cool.

Hope this helps.

Happy (Well Connected) RRing,

Jerry

Santa Fe Buff:

Regardless of what is probably a typographic error on the kit in question, some basic fractions math:

1/8=0.125
1/87=0.0115 (rounded)

1/8 is more than 10 times 1/87.

lirrman:

As to the kit, I would guess they accidently omitted the "7" as in 1/87. I haven't seen this kit, but one way to determine the scale of any building model is to measure a doorway. Modern standard doors are 6' 8" or 80" tall. Find a 'normal' door (as opposed to the perhaps extra tall front or freight doors) on the kit and measure it. If you don't have a scale rule, 80" in H0 scale is ~0.9", or a little over 7/8".

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: johnd on July 18, 2008, 01:24:34 PM
The standard turnout for Bachmann N scale gives a distance between parallel tracks that is way too much. I wish they would at least make more than what I am guessing is approx. a #4!!!

johnd:

There is no magic about the length of any track component. To create a crossover from turnouts where the diverging rails are too long, putting the tracks too far apart, you can cut equal amounts off the diverging (curved) end of each of the turnouts to get the distance between tracks that you want. Try laying them over each other at the parallel spacing you want and you will see what I am describing.

You can similarly shorten any turnout to fit in lots of positions. Just get a Dremel tool with a large diameter thin abrasive blade. For parallel tracks, you must cut the same amount off both turnouts. Measure at least twice . . .

Still, #4 turnouts are really tight and should only be used for short equipment operating at slow speeds, such as a yard or industrial trackage. If you have the room, #6 and larger turnouts are much more suited to a full range of operations.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

2' radius at 1:20 scale equals 40' radius at 1:1 scale. According to Kevin, the prototype B.C. locomotive could operate down to a 60 degree curve, which is equal to ~5' radius in 1:20 scale.

Everything compromised to run on one minimum radius curve can seriously compromise a model and doesn't look too successful from a business model standpoint.

Vic: I'll offer you a virtually new Uintah #50 in trade for the new Biles Colman 2-6-6-2 in 1:20.3.

My personal hope is that the announced B.C. locomotive will be able to operate over a 4' radius, but I'm prepared to widen my balloon track if necessary. I've been wanting to change it to code 250 rail anyway.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: NelsOn-30 on July 10, 2008, 09:48:41 AM
Vic
It is listed as 1 : 20.3

Check (Red on left) Products < Large scale < motive power < page 2

No list price yet.

NelsOn-30:
Sorry, but I don't see where the Brazilian locomotive Vic referenced is "listed as 1:20.3." Am I not looking in the correct place?

Happy RRing,

Jerry

You don't have to rewire anything to get powered units to run the same direction regardless of the way they face. Properly wired D.C. powered models will always run in the same direction, whether turned with the cab toward the front or back.

You can prove this by setting the direction switch so the unit runs forward. Stop the unit and turn it around without changing the direction switch. Turn the power up, and the unit will continue in the same direction.

This means you can mix which direction the units face, just like the real thing.

Happy RRing,

Jerry