Hi Dan, welcome back.

After my last reply, I decided to shorten the nest of wires in the bottom of the tender.  I removed one at a time, cut about 1 1/2" off each and soldered back.  That went so well that I decided to keep on going.

I removed the front weight and filed about 1/16" off the top left side; that allowed enough room for the decoder to fit between  the coal load and the screw post.  I then soldered an eight pin connector (#801123) to the decoder after shortening the wires by half, and plugged the connector into the light board.

Next, I  installed a 1" speaker (#810054) in the molded area on the floor of the tender. I used a baffle kit (#810110) and speaker gasket (#810119).  The baffle kit comes in several pieces to allow for various heights.  With the limited space, I could only use 1/2 of the recommended height of the baffle, which had me concerned about how this might affect the sound.  Not to worry, the volume and sound quality are still great.  I placed a gasket in the recessed area for the speaker, placed the speaker on top of the gasket, placed one section of the baffle over the speaker using clear RTV to hold it in place, and finally installed the top of baffle again using RTV.  Before doing all this, the speaker needs to be soldered to the decoder.

After letting the RTV set up over night, it was time to close up the tender.  It went together okay, just had to be careful not to pinch any wires between the screw posts.  After connecting the locomotive and tender, it was off to the layout.  I fired up the NCE Power Cab and what an awesome supprise: it worked!  I had to adjust many of the default volume CVs because they were to loud.  Overall, I'm extremely pleased with the product and continue to learn new things about this decoder everytime I look at the manual.  If you have any further questions don't hesitate to ask.

Have a good day,
Rod

Hello,
I installed a Soundtraxx decoder in my Bachmann K4 just last week.  Awesome sound but no easy task.  To get started, I suggest following some of the previous posts.  Go to the Soundtraxx web site and download the technical manual and installation guide for steam locomotives.  Study them closely as they contain a lot of information.  From there you can determine if you're up to taking on the challenge.  FYI:  In the installation guide there is a section that describes how to install the decoder in a DCC ready loco.  It's pretty straight forward but you still have to deal with getting everything inside of the tender, and substantial soldering skills are a must.  If you decide to press on with the install, get the components needed for the K4 from the Soundtraxx list.  I found all the components I needed at the "Model Train Stuff" on-line hobby shop and at excellent prices.  Let me know if you decide to continue with this project and I'll post the step by step details of how I installed the sound decoder in my K4.
Have a good day,
Rod

Thanks all for the info.

Some further details;  I use NCEs Power Cab, all turnouts are shinohara (18 of them), all frogs are wired around through the switch machine contacts, the problem turnout is a #4.  The only locomotive shorting out is my Bachmann HO DCC K4 (4-6-2) when it enters the curved portion of the turnout from the point end. The K4s tender has two trucks with two axles each. All of the K4s wheels and drivers are in gage.  All of my other Bachmann locos, steam and diesel, have no problem going through this turnout in either direction.  When the K4 shorts out at this turnout, it's obvious that the left wheel of the front axle of the leading truck is touching both the stock and point rails.

I've tried bending the point rail up in a more vertical position to create more space between it and the stock rail.  I've done this on other turnouts where the lead wheel of a particular car would short out, but never a locomotive until now.  Bending the point rail didn't help in this case.  Next thought was to somehow insulate the back of the culprit wheel from the point rail.  So I coated the back of the wheel and the side of the point rail with clear fingernail polish.  Last night I ran the K4 through the turnout several times with and with a cut of cars.  Didn't have any shorts.   But I'm not satisfied as this would only be a temporary fix until the polish wears off.

I'm still not sure if the problem is with this particular locomotive or the turnout,  or a combination of both.  Any further suggestions would be appreciated. 

Thanks again,
Rod

Does anyone have a cure for back to back shorts?

I have a Bachmann HO DCC Pennsy K4.  One of the front wheels of the tender causes a short circuit  whenever it passes through the converging direction (curved portion) of a turnout from the point end (I hope that makes sense).  Depending on the direction of the curve, left or right, the corresponding front wheel of the tender shorts between the stock rail and the point rail.

I'm not sure it the problem is with the turnouts or the locomotive, or a combination of both.  The problem doesn't occur through all turnouts, and the distance between the rails are in gage.  I've noticed that the drawbar between the loco and tender seems to be a little short, or maybe its just the design of the connection, but the tender seems a bit tight following the loco through the curved portion of turnouts.

If anyone has experienced this same problem and has any recommendations for correcting it, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rod   

Thanks Dan, I appreciate the info.

Yesterday I was studying the inside of the tender and removed the forward weight.  That allowed the shell to close with the decoder resting against the side of the tender.  With the weight in place and the decoder resting more against the coal load at an angle, the shell closes to within 1/16th of an inch at that corner of the tender.  I'm thinking that by filing down the top of the weight on the side where the decoder will rest may provide enough room for it.  I don't want to remove the screw post if at all possible.  Any thoughts?

I agree with you about the black wires attached to the light board.  I'm also thinking about shortening them to allow a little more room for the speaker.

Thanks again Dan and enjoy your vacation.  Let me know how you make out with Soundtraxx and your installation efforts.

Rod

I too, recently purchased the sound value 2-6-0 and had some issues with it.  Set it on the track for its initial test run using NCE Power Cab.  Sound came on but the engine would not move.  Bumped the engine and it moved a few inches and stopped.  Repeated this numerous times with the same results.

Took the engine to my work bench for a closer inspection and found a problem.  First thing I noticed was one of the pick up wipers (the wipers each have 3 copper fingers) on the tender were all bent out of shape and none were touching the axle.  Another set of wipers weren't bent but none or the fingers were touching the axle.  Repaired this and went back to the track.  Same results, had sound but no movement unless the engine was bumped.  Back to the work bench and discovered the connector between the tender and engine was not completely seated.  Reseated the connector and it ran fine after that.
 
It would appear there may be some quality control issues with the assembly of this product or maybe just one assembler having a bad day (not my call).  I guess a buyer should not expect a product to function properly right out of the box, and should do their own quality control inspection before using it.

Rod in PA
 

Dan,
I just opened the tender of my K4 with the intention of installing a TSU 1000.  The tender is DCC ready (light board with an NMRA socket), also a 1" molded speaker mounting hole in the bottom.  My problem is I don't have enough room to squeeze in the decoder.  The closest I get is to place it under the coal load at an angle, but the shell just doesn't close properly.

How or where did you mount the decoder in your tender?  Did you have to do any cutting or filing inside the tender to get it to fit?  Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I hope I don't have the same problems with this decoder that you had.

Thanks again,
Rod in PA

After an evening of researching a variety of DCC systems (nearly creating an overload), I've decided to stick with my original plan.  I still like the idea of having both DC and DCC available.  However, I never planned on trying to use both at the same time; I agree with Bill in FL, that could result in a costly disaster.  The DC cabs of my layout each have their own switchable power supply, one of which would be replaced with DCC (still leaning towards MRC Prodigy Express), and use only one or the other at a time.  I also like the idea of using block wiring for DCC, as this would provide a means of isolating trouble spots as suggested by Jeffery.  Thanks to all for your inputs and info, I'm sure I'll have more questions later when I convert the one cab to DCC.  Thanks again, Rod.

I'm using on-off-on switches for my cab selectors, so I should be okay in that regard - right?  As for amp and volt meters, that will have to wait until I see how this DCC venture works out.  I'm going to order the MRC Prodigy Express sometime within the next few weeks; hopefully it installs and works as easily as the reviews say.  Thanks all for the info.

Thanks Jim, that's what I needed to know.  That web link is very informative.  Thanks again.

I'm currently running a dual cab, direct current, 8' x 10' HO scale layout.  Each cab has a hardwired DC ammeter and voltmeter.  I'm thinking about converting one of the cabs to DCC.  My question is, can the DC ammeter and voltmeter be used with a DCC system (I'm 99% sure I am going with the MRC Prodigy Express)?  Any help or info would be greatly appreciated, thanks. 

Hi Mr. Bachmann,
Just wanted to pass on my appreciation to the folks at Bachmann customer service.  I requested a return authorization from an on-line hobby dealer for two locos that didn't operate properly (they were to be Christmas gifts).  I didn't hear anything from them, so I submitted service requests to Bachmann asking if they had any idea what the problem might be with the locos.  Two emails and one phone call later, I received two new replacement locos; an FA2 with sound and a 44 ton switcher.  Both work great.  The FA2 is my first on-board sound loco and it's awesome.  Can't wait to add more to my roster.  I know there are several other sound value locos soon to be available, and hopefully a lot more to come.  I also would like to see Bachmann make available a plug and play sound decoder that could be used to upgrade existing locos.  I believe there would be a great market for such a product.  Any comments or insight for such a product? Anyways, pass on my thanks to the customer service department (they must be part of Santa's helper squad) for their quick and reliable assistance.  Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all. 

Hi Guys,
I too never run more than two trains at once, so the #20 wire sounds like it should be okay for DCC operation on my small layout.  My concern about DCC and turnouts has to do with track polarity, not controlling the turnouts with DCC power.  I use twin coil switch machines and a "Snapper" power supply to operate the turnouts.  So I'm guessing the diode matrix shouldn't be a problem.  What I'm not sure about is the affect different types of turnouts (powered frogs, insulated frogs, etc.) might have on how to properly wire the track for DCC.  With the turnouts and track in place and ballasted, it would be difficult to make any changes.  But, if it's just a matter of running a positive and negative wire to each track power feed, or simply setting all block switches in one direction and connecting DCC power, that seems pretty easy.  I think I'll do some more research into DCC; maybe it won't be as complicated to convert as I thought.  Thanks for all of the info.
Rod

Hi Rich,

Are you saying you run DCC track power with #20 wire?  If so, that's interesting; everything I've read about DCC suggests using at least #16, and #14 would be even better.  At first I was concerned about using #20 wire with DC , but it works fine.  Any views on turnout wiring for DCC?  All my turnouts are Shinohara and have powered frogs, and all are wired through a diode matrix.  I don't know if this set up would be compatible with DCC or not?  If so, I might consider trying an inexpensive DCC system.  Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks, Rod.

Jeffery,
My concerns for converting to DCC include:

1.  The gauge of wire (#20) I used to power the tracks would be inefficient and I would have to run  heavier bus lines.  My layout is made up of four individual 4' x 5' sections.  Each one is separately wired to a main control panel using 20 pair telephone cables.  This method of construction was done so I could dismantel, crate and ship my layout when needed.  I began my layout when I was in the Air Force (late '70s) and stationed overseas.
2.  I'm not sure if my turnouts would be DCC compatible; I use a diode matrix route control system for all of my turnouts.
3.  I have a number of older engines that I like but it would not be cost effective to convert them to DCC.

I'm happy with the DC operation of my small layout; I just wanted to have a sound equipped loco to add to my roster.  Since all of my recent additions are Bachmann, which work very well, I was glad when they came out with an affordable, DC compatible engine.  However, needless to say, I was very disappointed when I tried to run the new FA-2 and it didn't work as advertised.  Thanks for you input.