hmm, but how to connect it, which first, second, third, a sequence, any pic, because I'm killing myself drawing it and it doesn't fit or work ! ?

Quote from: jward on October 06, 2011, 08:24:53 AM
i am not sure how the shinohara crossover works. i've never been a fan of their products. it might be simpler to make your own from atlas components. for this you'll need the following:

1 25 degree crossing.
2 #4 left
2 #4 right
2 2" straight.

the reason i suggested making your own from atlas components is that they are known to be dcc friendly. atlas track  has been dcc friendly for over 50 years, long before there was dcc. no need for an autoreverser with their track. the frogs are isolated but can be easily powered using a caboose industries hand throw, with contacts.

it sounds to me from the description of the shinohara crossover that while the individual switches may be dcc friendly, the crossing at the center is not. thus the need for an autoreverser on dcc. bear in mind that autoreversers for dcc are NOT compatable with dc. the atlas track will work with either dc or dcc with no modifications.

This Atlas thing sounds great, so for a #6 double crossover I will need :

1 25 degree crossing or any different ? what degree ?
2 #6 left
2 #6 right
2 2" straight or any different ? what size ?.

If the result is the same ?, a #6 double crossover really ?, I'd prefer the Atlas code 100, because Shinohara code 83 only is DCC friendly and always comparing price ! This has me hooked !

Wow, guys, you beat the hell out of me giving me all this avalanche of info. I just want to fit another loop into my 26, 28, 33, 35" radius mainlines, that's why 24. I have 22" radius tracks without use from the Acela set and, yes, I have a few packs of 26" left as well. I will try it and let you know, testing my six axle locos on that curve. Thank you for always being there for me and everybody else !

Hmmm, thanks. Ok, JWard, so 22" and 26", how many of each ?

Guys, how can I make a 24" radius EZ track curve using 22" radius plus ? What track piece do I need to add up to the 22" ? Any ideas, please, thank you !

Guys, will I have any electrical or radius curve problem with these double crossovers, I would use them manually only on my new second yard with Atlas Code 100 track ? I don't have any problem with EZ track #6 Single Crossovers, in terms of shorts or derailments, but these are #4 ? Anybody knows this #4 Shinohara radius ? Can the loco cause a short if it derails, e.g., going the wrong way, my fault ? This is the info that goes with it on ebay.


Now that more and more layouts are using Digital Command Control, we've revised our entire selection of turnouts to make them DCC-Friendly.


These drop-in replacements for existing  Code 100 products come fully assembled with:

Isolated frog with built-in connection;

Power Route-Selective All-Rail Frog

CURRENT IS CONTROLLED BY THE TURNOUT SETTING

Improved point clearance gaps to prevent short circuits from metal wheelsets

Insulated tie bar

Tab reinforcement to hold points more securely

Option to power frog through switch machines

Compatible with all swtich machines on the market


What's this ? I would use it only manually in the yard !!!

You will need to install an auto reversing unit on your layout once the crossover is installed. ?

******************

THIS UNIT IS DCC READY

Quote from: PhilipCal on September 30, 2011, 05:13:20 PM
Have to agree with the crew. A good plastic cement is what you need. You can obtain it from the same source you got the Walther's kits from.

So this Lanco Transparent Super PVC cement does NOT qualify ? !

I just bought Lanco Transparent Super PVC cement ! God bless ? Is this the last glue I've purchased to start building the kits, lol, and no lol ?

"There are some plastic pipe adhesives which will work on models" - Doneldon, you mean a regular PVC pipe joint glue ? Does it have to be transparent ? I guess so.

Quote from: ebtbob on September 26, 2011, 07:29:26 PM
Good Evening All,

      When in doubt as to what adhesive to use....go to www.thistothat.com.
The site is still up,  I checked before typing this message.

Aha, I noticed that they sell Epoxy here. Could I use it safely for the Walthers Diesel House and Roundhouse ? Thanks, guys, you're always helpful.

Quote from: richg on September 24, 2011, 04:04:04 PM

Quote from: czechwizard on September 24, 2011, 01:18:32 AM
Today I found and bought Rhino Glue, how about this one, anyone ?

I wonder if you read any of the replies before buying the Rhino stuff?

Rich

The replies came afterwards, lol, gotta order the Testors glue then from Philshobby Shop, my reliable LHS only a couple thousand miles away from my house down here in Nicaragua, at real World's End. Would you believe that they don't sell any trains or plastic kits over here, so no other glues like that ? Thank you for convincing feedback. Glad I didn't screw up with those bad glues, Walthers stuff cost quite a bit. 

Today I found and bought Rhino Glue, how about this one, anyone ?

I've got this Walther's Diesel House and Roundhouse to try to build, or stick together. My one-million-dollar question is, can I use this Carpenter's Glue Grip Bond 2 All-Purpose White Glue, formulated for wood and craft use ? It's strong, transparent, washable, and paintable ! Is it all right for plastic stuff like above mentioned ? Can I safely use it without screwing up ? I can't find a different glue here, I'm scared of CA because it's an instant mess. Thanks.

Quote from: florynow on September 10, 2011, 08:59:05 PM
Jeff:  the o scale cork roadbed resulted in an almost perfect height match between ez track and atlas code 100.

PF:  Now THAT is what a forum is for!!!!!! NICE!!!! I'll order some and try it.

PF

Is this the almost perfect product to connect Atlas Code 100 to EZ track, O 2' Track-Bed Strips (12) by Woodland Scenics ? I need to use some flex track so I need a roadbed. I also plan another yard with Atlas #6 turnouts connecting to my bucketful of straight EZ track. So is this product, no matter O scale, good enough to level Atlas to EZ track ?

Quote from: Jerrys HO on September 14, 2011, 06:17:16 AM
cz
look at my roundhouse project thread and go to my 2nd layout pic. this will give you some ideas how i used them.
Jerry




decided to post a pic and make it easier for you.
the back wall is 12ft and I used a 4% grade and spaced the sections out to give it a easier grade to climb. along the left wall i used pieces of 2x4"s to carry the grade over to a 3% decline that i also stretched out to make it go 11ft. and a stable elevation around the turns and then down to the track level on the other side.
right now i am trying to do the math on what grade i changed it to. all my loco's handle this perfectly with no drag going up and does not speed up going down.

Very nice, Jerry, thank you, I think I've got it. The wonderful picture speaks loud and clear. So for one track I need two sets of 4,3,2 % grade, depending on an 8, 12, and 16 foot track stretch.