There is a company that offers flex bridge track, and they give you the guide rails with it to install yourself ,plus a few other detail parts.Check the Walthers catalog.There a little pricey but very nice.They may be Micro Engineering code 83 not 100%.
Johnny

With 1 press of the e-stop button the prime mover will spool down and go into shut down,But you should be able to blow the horn and ring the bell still.If not  you lost your power through your wiring through the re-railer.Give this a try.Also if you throttle it up after it went through the shut down and is silent besides the bell and horn when cued .It should go back into the start up mode and start moving .Pressing the stop button and holding it down after the loco shut down will and should shut down everything . If you have a second loco even with just dcc and no sound ,but a ID different then the other, it should stay running when you put the other into the e stop when programmed  advanced .You can use it for a individual brake for sound value or any dcc engine .
Johnny

Yes Sir, I have a few bags full of them. Maybe one day I will part with them.Memories.
Johnny

The power wire your talking about wiggling is one of the wires that powers the base/receiver or wire to the track  ?Witch-ever wire it is the connection must be true on all the wires to there connectors.I  myself used the green power connector at the base with the set screws. to lock in solid copper phone wire for a good connection.Loose connections will cause problems.
Johnny

I like the look of those heritage diesels ,I think if they are only available with sound it would make sense to have the whole package with all the sounds or a non

sound version rather then half way.There great to run with another with the full Tsumani sound package,but a issue came up when braking ,where TSUMANI

has brake sounds along with a functional brake at f 11.When you try to run them together and use the f11 functional brake the Sound value loco cannot MU

with it in a consist since it does Not have a functional brake. Not compatible to mu with a Soundtraxx Tsumani Loco in braking .Maybe there is a code to unlock

this feature?? if it is there, or just take the sound board out and toss iT and put a Tsumani in it.Does not sound lIke such a good value now. Disappointing!!!  How OR why we get a dynamic brake sound in these ,but no functional brakes f11 that actually matters when running a model railroad. Who of all should know this???
Dissapointed
Johnny

The E stop has to be programmed to advanced setting .This way you can individually control each loco individually for the Estop,Then the 2nd time you push the stop button the whole thing will shut down like it does now.The manual is not very clear on this ,but this is how it works.
Johnny Adam

One of the few benefits of  those horn hook couples  is this one .
Johnny

Quote from: James in FL on December 20, 2015, 03:16:13 PM

QuoteThe older Bachmann models would release the lettering with some good sticky tape. Referring to the
Spectrum/Plus series years.These new models seem to have a top coat of some type that seals them in ,so the old method of tape and or eraser does not do it.Any ideas ?

For removing lettering/numbering without damaging underlying paint, look here;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Gf7xqIHGMQ

This works for me. Your mileage may vary.
Good luck.

Thank You !

I have seen a you tube video on this exact issue and from what I can tell It needs to go back for a replacement since there are some with frame issues that

cannot be easily fixed dealing with machining of the frame for the truck pivot pins and something else about a complete disassemble to do this. This

type of work should only be done by the manufacturer or a repair professional. The body of the loco should center up and not lean to one side or the other and stay there on any locomotive.
Johnny Adam

Get yourself a bottle non acid soldering flux paste and a good magnifying head set.
Johnny Adam

There are also many how to demonstration videos on laying track, detailing,repairs,maintenance on just about every subject involved in model railroading on you tube that share a lot of information that can get you up to speed and or direction you want to take with dcc,dcc and sound installs and upgrading older models to catch up with this evolution or revolution in model railroading offered today.
Johnny Adam

Thanks,
Maybe pass on the suggestion also for the gp38-2 also.
Happy Holidays,
Johnny Adam

Soundtraxx has there new economi sound decoder that has some big sound and is a 1 amp decoder.They come with a good length of super flexible wire.Like to get a whole spool of that stuff.Anyway modern technology has also offered us a zimo sugar cube speaker that still surprises me how much more volume it gives ,but also has the best low end BASS sound quality then any other in a small package .1 is enough ,but 2 wired in series will be acceptable for the hard of hearing.
Johnny Adam

Thanks,
I have seen that scraper method. I for one would end up having to repaint the whole thing and break out the bondo using that scraper method.Kind of makes me cringe seeing it done that way on a very nice model finish, knowing how mine turned out when I gave it a try on a old junker when I had better eyes. I have used alcohol to remove the print on a older kato and it worked without removing any of the base paint .Did not work so well on others.
Johnny Adam

I like that alcohol in the bag idea Genus .I haven't had any problems with the brake fluid in the most part ,but a mess it is, along with the cost.Time to change .The bag keeps the alcohol from evaporating so it gives it more working

time.Thanks for the tip!Any knowledge on removing lettering without disturbing the paint finish on these newer

Bachmamm models.The older Bachmann models would release the lettering with some good sticky tape. Referring to the
Spectrum/Plus series years.These new models seem to have a top coat of some type that seals them in ,so the old method of tape and or eraser does not do it.Any ideas ?